Clutch slave question.

[gusu]

So I've been having problems with hard shifts. I got under the car and took at a look at the slave a bit harder than when I adjusted the play on the clutch.

When I looked at the slave the boot had fluid on it and so did the oil pan. I've read that both of those are signs of a failed slave. My question is, can the slave fail but it still be possible to shift but it be hard? Third gear is typically locked out after 25 mph and at higher engine speeds shifting in every gear becomes more difficult.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Slave will, cause a problem shifting meaning you can shift, your transmission also may be on the way out.

 

[zcoh2gdsm]

you can always slip shift it, have someone push the car and rev match it into first, then they have to run to the car and hop in haha. it'll be hard to shift, no clutch just pull it into the gear.

no, if the slave fails you lose hydraulic pressure and your clutch will sink to the floor.

 

[Chicken Patty]

So I've been having problems with hard shifts. I got under the car and took at a look at the slave a bit harder than when I adjusted the play on the clutch.

When I looked at the slave the boot had fluid on it and so did the oil pan. I've read that both of those are signs of a failed slave. My question is, can the slave fail but it still be possible to shift but it be hard? Third gear is typically locked out after 25 mph and at higher engine speeds shifting in every gear becomes more difficult.

Whether tranny going bad or what not, fluid inside the boot of the slave cylinder means a bad slave. Replace it and see if the shifting problems go away. If they persist it can be a million things. If they persist I would start by making sure your clutch is properly adjusted.

 

[elplatanudo]

Ive had this same problem. I replaced the slave the the master cylinder. It is reccommended to change em both out because they wont hold the pressure of the new part if u replace one. Now u can shift with them being messed up. My car shifts at exactly 2,500rpm without the clutch but u have to let go of gas at that rpm and slide to next gear. Now if the slave is broken then u cant really get it out of gear....i had it break on me... I turned it on in 2nd gear and drove home on the shoulder lane like at 20mph..

Also check for leaks on the lines man. Sometimes that is the prob. Or proper bleeding of lines.

 

[gusu]

Ive had this same problem. I replaced the slave the the master cylinder. It is reccommended to change em both out because they wont hold the pressure of the new part if u replace one. Now u can shift with them being messed up. My car shifts at exactly 2,500rpm without the clutch but u have to let go of gas at that rpm and slide to next gear. Now if the slave is broken then u cant really get it out of gear....i had it break on me... I turned it on in 2nd gear and drove home on the shoulder lane like at 20mph..

Also check for leaks on the lines man. Sometimes that is the prob. Or proper bleeding of lines.

I had two new problems today and ordered a new slave, the master had been replaced before I bought it a few thousand miles ago. Anyway so I was parked in neutral and until I turned the car off it would not go into ANY gear, and while I had the car off later I put the car in reverse and had the clutch all the way to the floor and started the car and it jumped back about 2 feet and then acted like normal again.

 

[Chicken Patty]

I had two new problems today and ordered a new slave, the master had been replaced before I bought it a few thousand miles ago. Anyway so I was parked in neutral and until I turned the car off it would not go into ANY gear, and while I had the car off later I put the car in reverse and had the clutch all the way to the floor and started the car and it jumped back about 2 feet and then acted like normal again.

The clutch is not disengaging. If the components are working properly and clutch is properly adjusted, then I'd say the problem is within the clutch itself.

Have you properly adjusted the clutch?

 

[gusu]

I replaced the slave because it was leaking and while adjusting the clutch (the actual master cylinder adjustment rod not the throw rod) I noticed the adjustment rod assembly kind of wiggles and twists when you are trying to loosen the locking nut.

I've adjusted it twice and the car shifts AMAZING like before with no grinds even at very high RPM but after a few clutches it will start grinding third and need adjusting again.

Anyone know if there is a bolt I need to tighten besides the locking nut? Help would be greatly appreciated, if I can't get a good answer I'll upload a video later

 

[Chicken Patty]

I replaced the slave because it was leaking and while adjusting the clutch (the actual master cylinder adjustment rod not the throw rod) I noticed the adjustment rod assembly kind of wiggles and twists when you are trying to loosen the locking nut.

I've adjusted it twice and the car shifts AMAZING like before with no grinds even at very high RPM but after a few clutches it will start grinding third and need adjusting again.

Anyone know if there is a bolt I need to tighten besides the locking nut? Help would be greatly appreciated, if I can't get a good answer I'll upload a video later

I'm 6'4" so I usually let someone do the pedal adjustment for me and then I double check it's how it's supposed to be.

Does your pedal start to get hard after a few clutches? Did you adjust it like in this video?

‪Proper Clutch Adjustment‬‏ - YouTube

 

[dsm8883]

You have a 1g so check your pedal assembly. If it is bad send it out to shep for a rebuild. If it has not been rebuilt then I would guess it is shot.

 

[gusu]

Yes, I've adjusted it just like Jack suggested. I'm going to tightening all the bolts on the assembly tomorrow morning in case the assembly it self has worked itself loose otherwise I might try something like thread lock and just say FU to the whole thing. If it works out it will be pure win!

 

[Chicken Patty]

Yes, I've adjusted it just like Jack suggested. I'm going to tightening all the bolts on the assembly tomorrow morning in case the assembly it self has worked itself loose otherwise I might try something like thread lock and just say FU to the whole thing. If it works out it will be pure win!

Keep us posted dude.

 

[gusu]

Okay, since my last post I have readjusted my clutch four more times. Every time I drive for less than a mile and my clutch needs to be adjusted all over again. It will shift SMOOTH even near the redline.

Whats odd is it's almost to the foot where it stops being able to properly engage every time. It's almost exactly a mile.

Any ideas what would cause the clutch to come adjusted at the exact same distance every time?

 

[Chicken Patty]

Okay, since my last post I have readjusted my clutch four more times. Every time I drive for less than a mile and my clutch needs to be adjusted all over again. It will shift SMOOTH even near the redline.

Whats odd is it's almost to the foot where it stops being able to properly engage every time. It's almost exactly a mile.

Any ideas what would cause the clutch to come adjusted at the exact same distance every time?

You sure it's not like some sort of Pedal pump up?

 

[gusu]

You sure it's not like some sort of Pedal pump up?

What exactly do you mean? I've honestly never heard this term before.

Any suggestions on how to check or fix the issue if it is indeed the cause?

 

[SrKegler]

Raise the hood and push the arm on the slave cylinder towards the passenger side. If the slave won't retract into the cylinder, you have the push rod adjusted too far out. Run it in two turns and check, if it goes in, run the rod back out one turn and recheck. If it won't go in after that, run it back in the one turn and it should be adjusted to the proper distance.

 

[gusu]

Raise the hood and push the arm on the slave cylinder towards the passenger side. If the slave won't retract into the cylinder, you have the push rod adjusted too far out. Run it in two turns and check, if it goes in, run the rod back out one turn and recheck. If it won't go in after that, run it back in the one turn and it should be adjusted to the proper distance.

I've done that. It is properly adjusted, the issue is that within a mile it needs adjusting again. I am also tightening the nut so it does not move after the adjustments.

I also know that the rod can turn slightly while tightening the nut, but if that were the case it should shift as smoothly even after a few miles. The nut is also on TIGHT, to the point the assembly kind of twists a little bit.

I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow and if I can't figure it out I'm going to call Jack and see if he has any idea and if its a broken part what I need to replace. I'd rather not waste his time personally so if any one has any ideas I'll give them a shot.