Clutch replacement, what else to change?

[blazebolt]

I'm going to change my clutch/flywheel and have my tranny rebuilt. With the tranny out for rebuiling, I'll have some time on my hands and might as well replace everything. I already have SS clutch lines and a relatively new slave cylinder. I'm going to replace the clutch for and pivot ball. Is there anything else I should change with the tranny out?

Thanks

 

[Jake30]

Throw out bearing... Grease the input shaft that the TOB rides on. I would replace the Fulcrum ball (pivot ball). Clutch fork really isnt necessary but if you want to you can.

Make sure the flywheel has been resurfaced or brand new, locktite on the flywheel bolts is a good idea. Remember to torque everything down and double check everything. It gets to be a pain in the ass to have to keep pulling the tranny because you forgot to do something.

Good luck!

 

[VanIsleDSM]

do all your oil seals while your in there.

 

[blazebolt]

do all your oil seals while your in there.

Good point, I was planning on doing my oil pan gasket too.

I've searched, but can't come up with anything conclusive on which TOB to use? ACT or OEM? Rather not spend the extra money since the ACT clutch kit already comes with one, but will if it is worth it.

 

[Jake30]

OEM!!!! A lot of people have had trouble with the ACT TOB. Some say its OEM but I have reason to believe otherwise.

Oil pan gasket can be done with tranny on. If anything, replace the rear main if leaking. I wouldnt mess with anything that isnt bad "yet". Like the saying goes, "If it aint broke, dont fix it."

 

[daren_p]

While the new ACT TOB's should be their plastic lined version, I've still seen several posts with guys having issues with them. Go with an OEM TOB, the extra $25 is a whole lot better then having to pull the tranny again in the near future for a faied TOB. Here's a complete list of what all should be done, the tranny's out so may as well do it all now so you know your good till the next clutch change. Like I said its better to spend the extra now instead of having an old part fail & have to do it all over again.

-Mitsu TOB
-Fork
-Pivot Ball
-TOB Clip
-New Flywheel Bolts
-Rear Main Crank Seal
-2 Tranny Diff Seals

Not sure if there's any seals to do on the transfer case while your in there, as I don't have that issue

 

[wret]

Fuel filter, if you haven't already. You won't be so close to it for a while.

 

[blazebolt]

This is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks guys!

Fuel filter was done last year and part of me makes me wish I waited until I did the tranny. My back was killing me.

 

[blazebolt]

What kind of grease is best and how much should I apply to the TOB, Clutch, Disk, and Fork?

 

[VanIsleDSM]

inside the TOB is a inset ring, you load that up with high temp grease, put a coating on the sleave the bearing rides on, do the input shaft splines, the area the clutch fork contacts the TOB, pivot ball, slave rod to fork contact, and slave rod to slave will need some more grease probably.. also grease the t-case output shaft splines, check for a leaking transfer case yolk, fix if necessary..



Good call on the fuel pump.. I did mine while I was in there too..

Here's some OEM part numbers

OEM output to center dif seal MD723202

OEM input shaft seal MD741818 - don't bother with this, you need to open the tranny up as I found out.

OEM left front axle seal MD719710

OEM right front axle seal MD707184

OEM clutch fork MD770506

OEM pivot ball MD719602

OEM TOB MD749998

OEM TOB clip MD706185

 

[blazebolt]

Does anyone have a preference on a partnumber and brand of grease should I use? Which type of grease is to be used that I can buy at a local auto store?

 

[VanIsleDSM]

I just used some high temp lucas grease I picked up at good ol' canadian tire.. just get some name brand crap that's ~550F+