1G Clutch Recommendation for GST and seals?

[Rice Burner]

So my 1990 GST has been sitting in a garage and hasn't been on the road since 2003. I just replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder because there was no pressure, pedal went to the floor. Both were leaking and badly corroded.

The clutch fork has no spring to it at the slave cylinder, the pushrod stays fully extended but the slave does have pressure and can be pushed in. I unbolted the slave and the clutch fork can easily be moved back and forth. I'm thinking the pressure plate is shot or stuck one way or the other allowing no pressure on the fork.

If I pull the transmission I'm going to replace the clutch, PP and throw out bearing which was rattling back in 2003. I plan to get it back on the road and daily drive it and do minor mods for spirited driving. What would be a good steetable clutch set to get and what seals would be good to replace while the trans is out.

Thanks in advance for any advice and recommendations.

 

[pauleyman]

So my 1990 GST has been sitting in a garage and hasn't been on the road since 2003. I just replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder because there was no pressure, pedal went to the floor. Both were leaking and badly corroded.

The clutch fork has no spring to it at the slave cylinder, the pushrod stays fully extended but the slave does have pressure and can be pushed in. I unbolted the slave and the clutch fork can easily be moved back and forth. I'm thinking the pressure plate is shot or stuck one way or the other allowing no pressure on the fork.

If I pull the transmission I'm going to replace the clutch, PP and throw out bearing which was rattling back in 2003. I plan to get it back on the road and daily drive it and do minor mods for spirited driving. What would be a good steetable clutch set to get and what seals would be good to replace while the trans is out.

Thanks in advance for any advice and recommendations.

The only accessible seals are axle seals and shifter. Shifter isn't easy. Input shaft seals is inside the trans. Plenty of good clutch choices. Some of our favorites are southbend. I would not recommend the stock replacement. Yes its cheap. You will likely need more.

 

[Rice Burner]

Thanks for the response. I was looking at the SB stage 2 kit at Summit Racing, but they seem to have 4 different versions and not sure which one would be best for me. I will replace the input shaft seals, would the rear main seal be something I should change or leave it as is if it's not leaking?

 

[pauleyman]

Thanks for the response. I was looking at the SB stage 2 kit at Summit Racing, but they seem to have 4 different versions and not sure which one would be best for me. I will replace the input shaft seals, would the rear main seal be something I should change or leave it as is if it's not leaking?

don't look at summit racing part numbers. Use the southbend website to see options. Summit lists for non turbo, turbo etc. Hard to tell what is what.
I recommend one of the site vendors. TMZ comes to mind. I run an SS plate with the TZ-B disk.
yes I would change the rear main. It's 20 years old or older. It's one piece in it's own housing. Very easy.

Clutches for Mitsubishi, Eclipse, 2.0L TURBO, 90-99 | South Bend Clutch | We Motivate The Shiftless

South Bend Clutch offers new and rebuilt clutches ranging from OEM factory specifications to varying degrees of performance and heavy duty for all automotive, truck, and industrial applications.

www.southbendclutch.com

Here is the TMZ site.

South Bend Clutch – Kits for Mitsubishi 4G63T AWD and FWD Platforms – Mitsubishi Eclipse / Eagle Talon / Plymouth Laser / Mitsubishi Evo 1-3 / Mitsubishi Galant VR4 / Mitsubishi 3000GT 6G72 FWD / Dodge Stealth 6G72 FWD

www.tmzperformance.com

 

[CrackedDSM]

I also run a Southbend kit sourced from TMZ/ @twicks69.

I have the SS plate, and B-series full face ceramic disk, with the ACT Streetlite flywheel. No chatter, no issues feathering the clutch and taking off from a stop, and it holds 400-430awhp and 450awtq that my car makes just fine. Pedal feels stock too, which I love, and that's on an AWD. For a FWD, it'll be the last clutch you ever need because of how much less stressful a FWD is on the driveline.

 

[twicks69]

To the OP @Rice Burner , what specific modifications are done to the 90 GS-T currently? What have you already replaced as maintenance done to this point? If it hasn't been on the road in 20+ years, I am expecting that you will need to rebuild quite a few components, especially regarding clutch hydraulics, brake hydraulics, fuel system, and ignition system. Even though the car was garaged, how bad is the corrosion from sitting?

Regarding clutch, I can give recommendations based on what the current modifications and what the future modifications are going to be. I will assume that you will need a new flywheel, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, clutch assembly, TOB, TOB clip, clutch fork, clutch fork pivot ball, clutch master and slave cylinders and hydraulic hoses / hard lines.

With the F5M33 transmission, only the axle seals can be done with the transmission assembled, and you have to be careful how deep the axle seals are installed into the case, otherwise it will contact the differential and cause leakage. For that specific transmission and early model year, the axle seals are MD707184 on both sides.

I see you already replaced clutch hydraulic components, but here is further reference for anyone searching -
You may have difficulties finding new OEM clutch hydraulic components stateside, here is an overseas ordering option; I use Amayama regularly and they are totally legit. If the part is ordered and they cannot get stock of it, the refund the transaction, so no worries there.
Slave cylinder assembly - D22A version - MD733620 (NLA), D27A version - MD733623 -https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/md733623

Master cylinder assembly - 1G - MB555133 - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/mb555133
(aftermarket master cylinder assembly - https://www.ebay.com/itm/172251263850)

I would expect that you will need to replace the entire clutch hydraulic soft and hard line between the clutch master and slave; pick up an aftermarket stainless braided hose and get the correct fittings to install it. You will definitely need to flush all hydraulic lines, and then bleed the entire system several times to get any air out.
Stainless clutch hose kit - https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-1...EL2L-92gH5JSbWDwJsYJxkwPb6vlCouRyzExq9s42UWuj

Stainless brake lines kit 1G FWD - https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-1g-dsm-fwd-brake-lines

Flywheel - ACT Streetlite 6-bolt FWD - 600155 - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop...y-steel-flywheels-for-4g63t-dsm-gvr4-evo-1-3/

Flywheel bolts - 2795A956 x6 - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/1989-1992-6-bolt-fwdawd-flywheel-bolts-22-5mm-long/

Pressure plate bolts - MF241251 x6 - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop...lts-awd-and-fwd-dsm-applications-mf241251-x6/

OEM TOB and TOB Clip - MD749998 and MD706185 - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop...lts-awd-and-fwd-dsm-applications-mf241251-x6/

OEM clutch fork - MD770506 - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/oem-clutch-fork-awd-and-fwd-dsm-applications-md770506/

Clutch fork pivot ball - MD719602 - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop...t-ball-awd-and-fwd-dsm-applications-md719602/

1g FWD black axle seals - MD707184 - (select passenger side axle seal from drop down menu, quantity 2) - https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop/mitsubishi-w5m33-awd-manual-transmission-seals/

For clutches, well, if this is going to stay as a stock car with light spirited driving and lower power levels, a standard Exedy clutch should work just fine. If you are going to be beating on it whatsoever, then I would discuss upgrade options.
If it is going to be a "daily driver" which almost never happens with DSM's anymore, while seeing considerable street use mileage, then I would do a South Bend Clutch K536SSTZ full Kevlar sprung hub clutch disk kit. If you wanted to stick with an organic disk option, I would look at the South Bend Clutch K05048SSO (I don't have it on the website but can order it no problem; pretty much the same price as the SSTZ kit above). https://www.tmzperformance.com/shop...ishi-galant-vr4-1992-1995-mitsubishi-evo-1-3/

If you are looking for an Exedy OEM style option, 05048 is the part number and are quite cheap, around $180 or so right now. Again though, this is literally a stock only option, I would not beat this clutch with any real power or abuse. I can supply this as well, I just don't carry it on my website as I typically sell performance based products.

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For axle seal removal and installation of the MD707184 axle seals, the easiest way will be with a hook style seal puller, making sure you do not catch the hook on the transmission case causing a scratch or groove to the surface; just be careful.
Shaft style / fulcrum seal removal tool - Lisle 58430 - https://a.co/d/hZYF9oC
Hook style seal removal tool - Lisle 56750 - https://a.co/d/jgHqShV
For installation, the axle seal outer lip DOES NOT bottom out on the case! If you hit it too far in, you will wreck the seal and it will leak because it is in contact with the differential. USE THE CORRECT TOOLS!
Correct tools here -
Driver handle - Miller Tool 8475 - https://ebay.us/m/hFnqQ1
MD707184 axle seal installer tool - MB991115 (see attached pictures) - https://ebay.us/m/An1XR0
I'm sure there are other manufacturers with seal drivers, but some of them do not compensate for the lip on the axle seal and they get installed too far in because of it. The tools above are what I use every day on these transmissions.

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I am hoping you know that all of the fuel needs to get drained out, fuel pump and filter replaced, fuel lines cleaned or replaced if corroded, engine bay fuel filter replaced (OEM part number is MB504761; generic aftermarket link here - https://a.co/d/eRFtYzO), fuel injectors removed, cleaned, tested, with new upper and lower insulators and o-rings. These among other things, as you are dealing with something that hasn't moved in 20 years. Expect a lot of maintenance, including timing belt and tensioner, pulleys, water pump, etc. I am sure you will find plenty of issues that need servicing.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Just for the record, add me to the camp of "daily drives his DSM". AMS Talon in my sig gets 70-75ish miles a day put on it commuting to work and back.


But, that's why I tagged twicks/Tim Z himself. Listen to him!

 

[Rice Burner]

Lots of good info, much appreciated. The tank was pretty much empty, ran out of gas from when I would start it a few times a month when it lived in my driveway after getting wrecked. Probably 10 years ago I started fixing it up, meaning professional cleaned injectors, cleaned tank etc. I forget the other minor things I did. Fast forward to earlier this month when I moved it to my current driveway, I replaced the fuel filter, added gas and cranked it up. I replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, both were completely corroded. I'm planning to replace the timing set this weekend and then next weekend I would like to replace the clutch and axle seals. Also, you are right, miss spoke when I said daily drive it, monthly drive it would be more accurate, meaning probably average 4x per month which is way more than my other project car . Anyway, I'm hoping to get it in the body shop later this month to fix the damaged front end and faded paint. It's in really good condition meaning no rust, interior is really clean and no rips or burns etc. I have always been totally anal with all my cars, it just needs a good detailed cleaning. I've had this car since 1993 so I'd hate to see it waste away anymore especially after holding on to it this long. Doing some performance upgrades would not be out of the question down the road once I get it back in decent shape.

 

[twicks69]

Sounds good, yeah, go with a simple Exedy clutch if it is a stock-ish car; you can always pull the trans again and upgrade if you actually are going to need a higher capacity clutch. For now, take care of all the maintenance needs.

 

[Rice Burner]

Thanks for the advice and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get elbow deep and back into this car.