Clutch pedal adjustment, upper stop or the rod?

[slipstream808]

This is actually pertaining to the 2g pedal pump up, which I have had for an hour or so now. I've read all the material about adjusting the upper stop so that you have more free play at the top. But doesn't this just make the following happen (homage to L2RTSIAWD)

TOP
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-Clutch Engages Here
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-Bottom

(After stop changing)

TOP
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-
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-Clutch engages here
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-
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-
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-BOTTOM

Couldn't you just move the rod clockwise (as you are sitting in the driver's seat) so it comes out of the master cylinder and eliminate pump up? It would in affect lower the engagement point to that 1" of freeplay while keeping the total pedal travel the same...right? Or am I totally wrong??

 

[andymoraitis]

I've had occasional pump up issues on my 2G when I over adjust the pedal travel too high. It may not go into pump up immediately, but it can with a few minutes of driving. In actuality, I leave the top stop alone and give the rod one to two turns counterclockwise and it goes away. Going clockwise from the driver's perspective will only raise the engagement point and make the situation worse.

 

[Morphius]

Pump up occurs when the pedal system is adjusted so the pedal is dead against the stop, and any further adjustment of the M/C input rod pushes the rod in. After the 1-2mm of input rod movment (pushing in) the compensation valve closes and cuts flow to the reservior on the M/C. This allows all the fluid trapped in the line to pushed soley to the S/C.

If you've adjusted in too far (put it in cutoff) the system can't self adjust and operation of the system can, for certain instances, create a vacuum which can draw more fluid out of the reservior. (remember it's in cut-off so fluid can't escape) More fluid in the line, S/C moves further. Clutch is disengaged more. etc, etc.

 

[slipstream808]

Good info, and yeah... sorry about the clockwise thing. I meant COUNTERclockwise.

 

[Eric_7810]

Very interesting thread. I just replaced my M/C and now my act2600 engages like this;


TOP
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-Clutch Engages Here
-FLOOR

Is this normal. I drive my truck and the contact point is at the top, and sounds like his contact is towards the top, does it make a difference?

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

Hmm...mine kinda does the same as ^^^ but a lil higher, PLUS my clutch fluid disappears after a few 100's miles or so.

 

[daren_p]

Very interesting thread. I just replaced my M/C and now my act2600 engages like this;


TOP
-
-
-
-
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-Clutch Engages Here
-FLOOR

Is this normal. I drive my truck and the contact point is at the top, and sounds like his contact is towards the top, does it make a difference?

If your clutch is engageing right off the floor, you should adjust the rod abit. While this isn't as bad as having it engage all the way up, you may encounter troubles shifing in the future after some wear takes place. I usually adjust mine so it engages about 1/3rd the way up or so it just starts to engage about 1 inch off the floor.

Like Andy said for pedal pump up you can usually get away stopping it by just adjusting the engagement point closer to the floor & don't have to worry about the top stop.

 

[mccurdy]

can you guys please tell me (i tried searching) how to adjust the clutch pedal, or simply point me to the direction of the instructions? My CFDF engages nearly off the floor, and my reverse and other gears are hard to shift and grind sometimes. Hoping this will help

Thanks

 

[Dream On]

Get under the dash by the pedals and look for the clutch master cylinder. There will be a rod sticking out that has a "C" bracket on the end of it with a nut. Loosen the nut, and turn the rod with pliers or whatever else you can get in there. Like said above, turn it counterclockwise to raise, and clockwise to lower the engagement point.

 

[mccurdy]

awesome. if say, my clutch engages right off the floor, how many turns really is needed to put it at 1/3 way up. Just curious so i dont #### something up

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

The pump up is horrible. I had adjusted my clutch (2600/street disc) and I had it at a place that I was happy with. Then as someone mentioned, drive it a few minutes, and the clutch is grabbing RIGHT AT THE TOP. It is not fun or easy, espcially with a 2600. Those who complained about the 2600 being hard on your left leg must have the clutch adjusted wrong because I now know what they speak of. But after a few adjustments I had it about int he middle. Didn't mess with anything but the rod adjustment. Not the upper adjuster.

 

[Dream On]

Each turn will make a pretty significant different. Adjust it little by little, even though you'll want to die being stuck up under there.

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

Mines is good now. Even though its kinda up high, bc I adjusted for the pedal to be a tad bit higher. The maximum allowed in height. But its good now, I will adjust so it'll be a lil more low but its too cold right now so I'll wait till it warms up a bit. The fluid disappearing was that BOTH the cylinders were leaking so they were replaced w/Mitsu parts.

 

[2gAWDTalon]

I've had occasional pump up issues on my 2G when I over adjust the pedal travel too high. It may not go into pump up immediately, but it can with a few minutes of driving. In actuality, I leave the top stop alone and give the rod one to two turns counterclockwise and it goes away. Going clockwise from the driver's perspective will only raise the engagement point and make the situation worse.

Get under the dash by the pedals and look for the clutch master cylinder. There will be a rod sticking out that has a "C" bracket on the end of it with a nut. Loosen the nut, and turn the rod with pliers or whatever else you can get in there. Like said above, turn it counterclockwise to raise, and clockwise to lower the engagement point.

Who is right? It seems that turning it clockwise would push the rod further into the MC thus raising the engagement point. Mine engages of the floor and I am about to adjust it so I want to know what way to turn it. Before I saw this thread theory tells me to turn it clockwise to raise engagement... anyone have a comment?

 

[2gAWDTalon]

^^^^ Nothing on this?

 

[Morphius]

^^^^ Nothing on this?

The adjustment on the M/C input rod mearly adjusts the height or location of the pedal. Looking toward the front of the car, I beleive you turn the rod counter-clockwise to lower the pedal, the inverse to raise it.

The pedal only has X amount of degrees of travel it can move, and only a set displacment of fluid it can transfer. If you lower the pedal, you reduce the amount of travel which equates to less fluid transferred because you can't fully stroke the M/C. Make the pedal higher, more fluid transferred up until a point when the pedal can travel enough for full actuation of the M/C. After that you are moving the 'swing' envelope of the pedal, until you bottom the pedal out at the top of it's swing on the pedal stop. At this point, you will induce cut-off which goes back to my first post above.

 

[Dream On]

Yep I think I'm wrong about what I said. It's been awhile, sorry about that. It's easy to figure out once you're in there doing it.

 

[gbell]

I have tried to research this as much as possible online, but I can't find a clear answer. The engagement point can be adjusted correct? My mechanic told me that only the free play can adjusted, but I think hes wrong, so who's right? I clutch is engaging way too high and I need to adjust it and I just can't figure it out myself. I can't seem to loosen the nut to adjust the rod I think everything is just way harder to do with one hand since I had thumb surgery. If I could loosen the nut I would want to turn the rod counterclockwise correct? What should I use to turn the rod, it looks like there is a place for a super small wrench, or just use pliers? Any help would be great, this shit is pissin me off.

 

[Dream On]

Engagement can be adjusted. Get a wrench to loosen the nut and turn the rod. Follow instructions above. I just used some vice grips to turn it.

 

[gbell]

Ok I tried again today, but I keep having problems. When I try to loosen the damn nut all I do is round it off. It obviously can't be an 11mm, but 12mm just rounds it off. I already had my shop replace the nut because it was already too screwed up from before. Now I'm afraid its going to end up the same way again. Anyone have any advice?

Anyone from the NW in the Salem, Oregon area know of a shop that knows wtf they are doing, because I can't really deal with this myself and my mechanic told me that the engagement point cannot be adjusted.

This problem should be easy to solve myself, I dont understand why its so damn difficult.

 

[mccurdy]

i just tried getting up in there to adjust the clutch and i cant seem to loosen that nut near the brace bracket. I tried a 10mm too small, 11mm too small, 12mm fits around it but it seems its just rounding out the nut.

Any suggestions? My clutch is engaging too high up right now, and i can feel it slipping under heavy power in certain gears. I need to adjust it so it engages off the floor (or close too it) which RRE recommends for the CFDF clutch

 

[slipstream808]

I had to get a pair of pliers on that baby.

 

[mccurdy]

curious, what type/size wrench/plyers/vice did you guys use? I have the adjusting wrench that you can turn with your thumb, but it keeps loosening on me when i try and turn it. Did you guys use the kind that fits into the grooves on the neck?

I just can't seem to get this little bastard loose

 

[turboglenn]

I think the one on the switch is 14mm, and the one on the rod are 12's. I just did the switch by hand once i got it loose, but i always use a wrench on the rod.

I set mine according to the instructions on RRE's site that you can access through the VFAQ page.

 

[CheaCheaBoy]

can someone tell me how your suppose to take that pin off? are you suppose to just pull it off (i don't want it to break and then be owned by my car ). Please help me. Been working on it all day today (trying to readjust my clutch).