Clutch kills car.

[darkiller_666]

I am on my last straw with this car. I blew a HG replaced it and got my head hot tanked decked ported polished. 5 days later timing belt broke. Put a new head on but couldn't get the car to start. Wired a 1g CAS got the car going. 2 days later the fuel pump went out. New fuel pump put in today. Before i even got it home, i started noticing a chirping noise from what sounded like the trans. Pulled over put the car in neutral and pressed the clutch to check for the sound, and the car dies. Started it back up in neutral pushed clutch car died.....
Tried starting it in first with clutch mashed to the floor, it jerked forward everytime it tried to start. Like the clutch was only partially engaged. Finally got it rolling and had a hell of a time getting it in and outta gear. Barely got it home. WTF could this be now? im really tired of this car. I swear there is a $50 dollar bill deposit right next to the gas tank, if i dont put $50 bucks in with every 1/4 tank of gas the car craps out. Any help would be awesome. Ive been told its either the TOB cylinder or the dreaded crankwalk.

 

[ilco187]

could be a faulty slave cylinder

 

[sadc]

^^ my guess on that....check out the rezervoar(sp) If you are low on fluid then you know you sprung a leak. First place I'd check is in side the car, on the fire wall. If you see anything wet then its your master cylinder. If not, just follow the hard line all the way down to the slave and see if anything is leaking.

 

[usdrew]

a visual inspection of the slave/master will tell you if theres a leak (as well as fluid level). if all those are in order, a TOB should fix your issues. However, while the trans is out, id replace the clutch, resurface the flywheel and replace that slave cylinder. theyre fairly cheap, and if that were to fail..you'd probably have an aneurysm.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

It is going to be a hydrolic problem, most likely a master cylinder that isn't building enough pressure. If it was a busted slave or master the pedal would stick on the flood. A bad TOB is going to cause a god awful noise coming from the transmission. Your best bet is to start with just trying to bleed out the system so see if you get any air out. If you are always getting air then you know either the master or slave has a bad seal on the piston.

 

[darkiller_666]

Im glad to to a consensus on what my problem might be. Im going to put up a few more symptoms and do the visual inspection/bleed system/ new fluids as soon as it is warm enough to do it. Its 7 degrees and winds as **** right now outside. The clutch when pressed feels like it doesnt want to go farther down then an inch. I can make it go to the floor, but its not easy. The car was making a wild chirping sound anytime the clutch was touched while it was on. While trying to limp it home the car would hesitate once in gear, itd almost feel like the breaks were catching. Prior to my 15 minutes of driving the car when i got in the clutch was stuck to the floor. I worked it a lil and got pressure back, even tho it felt like only half pressure. The clutch has less then 10k on it, a new ACT 2100. How expensive/hard would it be to replace the potential suspects? TOB master and slave cylinder.

I dont know how important this is, but i got in the engine bay, and the two things coming out of the transmission underneath the 1g CAS had excessive play. I tried moving it with my hand and it never went all the way back into the transmission on it own. I could push it maybe an inch farther in than it was doing on its own. I dont know if that is relevant at all.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Now it sounds a lot like your TOB. Did you replace it when you replaced your clutch? You may not have gotten it installed correctly. That definitely sounds like your problem now. Those 2 things with play under your CAS are probably the shift cables and the part the attach to the is on the transmission. Make sure they are installed correctly. Here is a link with a picture of what they should look like. Second or third picture down.
2G AWD Clutch install

 

[darkiller_666]

Yes the TOB was a new ACT one that came with the kit. I had no problems until this so im assuming it was in there right. Does the play in those cables indicate the TOB for sure?? I am thinking it does, perhaps the TOB is not going all the way in causing this clutch to rub/catch on the drive line??? I have been searching, but cant find anywhere you can buy just the TOB. I found a kit for the two cylinders for around $60. With as much that is new on this car im feeling like i might as well replace it all while im doing it. This car is hungry for money. 3 months, 2 heads, 2 PTU, 2 coil packs, new CAS, new timing belt, new fuel pump, new throttle body, the list goes on and on. With all this new parts i only put about 20 miles on my car in 3 months. It has yet to make it longer then 5 days without it being something else. I am seriously considering selling this car, as much as that makes me sad.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

If it was an ACT throw out bearing this is all you need to read.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/314795-act-throw-out-bearing-only-3000-miles.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...b-vs-act-aftermarket-tob-explainedw-pics.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...m-tob-act-2600-bearing-same-you-say-pics.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/312271-act-tob.html

 

[darkiller_666]

Where can i get a OEM TOB? None of my local auto parts store have them. I cant find it searching the forums here or the classifieds or google.com. I have heard NSK makes them but there not supported on the forums and i cant seem to find a site that sell Mitsu TOB. Where can i purchase JUST a TOB and how much am i looking at spending? Not including labor, looks like im learning something else new. The only thing i like about all this BS is learning how to fix it.

1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse - NSK Release Bearing

 

[JusMX141]

The clutch probably failed under the weight of the enormous spoiler.

Your shifter cables and levers will always have movement- although I'm not sure how much yours is to determine whether it's "too much". The shifter cable movement is not directly related to the throwout bearing. If you have someone work the shifter while you're under the hood looking, you'll see how these levers are supposed to move in/out as well as up/down during normal shifting.

If it's not a throwout bearing malfunction, I'd venture to guess it's some other type of clutch issue....broken disc, bent / broken fingers on the pressure plate. You won't know until you get the transmission down, and at that point you'll want to replace the disc and throwout bearing regardless.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Mitsubishi OEM Throw Out Bearing 89-99 Eclipse/Talon 4G63 - Throwout Bearings - Drivetrain - 89-99 Eclipse Turbo 4G63 - Mitsubishi - CI Motorsports

 

[darkiller_666]

I can never have a thread without some comment on my spoiler. Apparently it cause my blown HG also. Anyways, i found a new ACT TOB for 15 dollars on the classifieds. I know there "bad" but for 15 right now i think its not to bad. Unless a new or OEM isnt far off this price. Still having troubles finding a site that sells Mitsu TOB's OEM or not. Anyone know where?

 

[darkiller_666]

Is a TOB and a clutch release bearing the same thing? If so i found an ton of them for sale.

 

[JusMX141]

Last summer we swapped the street disc for a puck disc in my buddy's '95 TSi for more bite at the track. SBR sold him a new ACT puck disc and a new OEM throwout bearing over the counter for $130. I think the disc was $99 and the OEM bearing was $25 or $26, plus PA sales tax.

SBR has them on their site for $33. Slowboy Racing, Inc. :: DSM :: Drivetrain :: Transmission Components :: Eclipse/Talon/Evo 4G63 :: OEM Throw Out Bearing

....and yes, the spoiler is the reason for the head gasket failure as well. Your car is angry with you!

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Spend the money for the OEM throw out bearing or you may be doing this again and next time it could damage the pressure plate if it hasn't already. For 34.99 there shouldn't be a question.

 

[darkiller_666]

But my $20 deposit is on the spoiler, if i dont feed it a $20 via the money chomper in the spoiler, the car closes its eyes, picks a part, and makes it fail.

 

[JusMX141]

Do you remember if the bearing you installed had a nylon / plastic sleeve or a metal sleeve that rides on the trans input shaft?

I've seen NSK-brand throwout bearings in ACT kits, and I believe that was the same brand bearing that came in the OEM box we got from SBR.

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[kris_stewart10]

why not get rid of the spoiler it makes you slower (more weight) and it causes all kinds of problems

 

[darkiller_666]

I dont remember what the TOB looked like, i had a buddy who had done many times help me. I didnt inspect the TOB at all prior to install. Im going to check the hard lines and master/slave for leaks, replace if needed and then get a TOB. Thanx for the help guys. Gotta love expanding your knowledge base.

The spoiler is permantly attached to the hatch. I bought the car with a wrecked hood fender and broken back glass. Got a new hood and hatch and spoiler all to match for 100 bucks. Thats why i dont take it off.