2G Clutch goes to the floor and stays there.

[Dewjew]

Ok so my clutch pedal just went to the floor and stays. While car was a running it won’t shift into gear. The master cylinder is full of fluid. So guessing there in not a leak. This is my first DSM so all the help I can get would be great thank you for the help in advance.

 

[Lucky13]

I would still check the slave cylinder for leaks. Is this a new development of a good running system or something your trying to troubleshoot after doing some work on the car?

 

[Dewjew]

It was driving and running great pressed the clutch in to put it in gear and It would not go and the pedal was stuck to the floor. It is a 97 GST Spyder. The master cylinder is full to max which tells me there is no leak unless I am missing something.

 

[sinned4g63]

Check your crossmember for fluid to see if the slave might be leaking at all. If your master is full you might have an air bubble in the system or a seal failed somewhere and it's not getting pressure. If you're experiencing early signs of a leak your reservoir might still be full but won't stay that way. You could also have someone push the clutch pedal while you watch the rod on the slave to see if its moving. I made it about half way home on a 20min drive when I lost pressure and left me stuck in gear. I had to use the toe of my shoe to pull the clutch pedal off the floor to limp it home.

 

[pauleyman]

Check all the similar threads to yours. You have a failing master cylinder as the most likely suspect. It leaks internally.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-goes-to-floor-wont-go-in-gear.230309/

 

[spyderdrifter]

Also check to see if both bolts are still holding the slave cylinder in. I somehow lost 1 bolt one time, and the 2nd bolt ended up bending due to the exerted pressure. No clutch movement after that.

 

[XC92]

Might as well also check under the dash for leaks from the MC and to make sure that the bolts, rods, linkages, etc., are all fastened and tight, and pressing the clutch pedal in actually pushes the MC rod in, and that the issue lies downstream of the pedal assembly--literally in this instance. For all you know the pedal rod snapped or the MC rod bolt came off. Last time you pressed the pedal, was there much resistance?

 

[Dewjew]

Might as well also check under the dash for leaks from the MC and to make sure that the bolts, rods, linkages, etc., are all fastened and tight, and pressing the clutch pedal in actually pushes the MC rod in, and that the issue lies downstream of the pedal assembly--literally in this instance. For all you know the pedal rod snapped or the MC rod bolt came off. Last time you pressed the pedal, was there much resistance?

There is resistance and the slave cylinder rod is trying to push the fork but looks like a seal inside the slave is gone.

 

[Mech Addict]

Mine did the exact same thing. There was only a hint of fluid on my m.c.rod when I got home and checked it, though the pedal had gone to the floor (approaching a red light; Fun!). The reservoir was still full. Like certain other parts on dsm, many folks swear you should only use an oem replacement master. There is a rebuild kit you may find (or was that the slave....?, at least one has a rebuild kit!). You might consider age of the vehicle and replace the slave while you have bleed it all anyway. In any event, consider a speed bleeder to replace the regular one on the slave to make for better bleeding after assembly. Jack’s Transmission has a good video showing proper adjustment.

 

[XC92]

FWIW the MC rebuild kit has to be ordered from Japan and can take as long as 6 months. Several dealers told me this. And it might not fix a bad MC if the bore is gouged or something else is bad.