Clutch Failure or CW?

[civic619]

sup guys,

As soon as I was leaving the gas station last night, I tried to put my car in gear. It wouldnt budge at all into any gear. The clutch felt a bit softer than usual. I turned off the engine and tried to put it in gear. That worked and felt like butter...but when the engine was on, it didnt budge. I started it in gear and it jumped forward and then I shut the engine down again. From that point on, it was back to normal and I was able to shift gears with the engine on.

Im assuming this could be the clutch disk. Springs maybe came out or just got stuck for some reason. I also noticed a few days ago, if I rev the motor to redline, the clutch seems to jerk near 7k even though I have the pedal down. Im really thinking my clutch is about to take a shit.

I had a few questions to ask you guys. I changed a few clutches on hondas/acuras before and pretty familiar with the procedure. Im planning on swapping out my clutch very soon. This would be the first time I have ever touched the drive train section of a DSM. Is there anything critical I need to know about that differs in the DSM? Or it is pretty much the same? Im not sure if there are any little tricks or tips you guys have to offer to make the fix smooth and easy...But if you do, let me know. Id like to get the job done in a day since my car is my daily. Also, Could this be a bad sign I have crankwalk???

last question, I still have the stock clutch on my car and need to decide on which clutch set up I should go with. either a 2100 or 2600. Basically my engine mods so FAR:

-FWD DSM-
Ported 14B
RRE LICP
RRE MBC 15-16 psi
Ported o2 Housing
RRE 3" DP
Test Pipe
Apexi N`1
HD UPIC
NGK 7s
Accel Plugs
Walbro 190lph Rewired

Id like to either go with a big evo 16G or something bigger later on this year. A FMIC, injectors and a fuel computer. And of course all the tuning essentials.

Keep in my that I have a FWD. I have hear conflicting statements about the 2600 being to "HARSH" for a FWD, then some say its okay. What do you guys suggest.

 

[2fast2furious]

I'd go with the 2600 as you have a bit of mods. Your easily going to over power the stock clutch once you change out your 16g with another turbo... even so I know San Diego is a big street racing scene (at least it used to be when I lived there) and your stop light to stop light confrontations will tear the 2100 to shreds soon after you buy it if you thrash on it. Go with the 2600 and save your self the time. As for CW, well the 2600 is harder on the crank, but its kinda a case by case basis from what I read and it seems to hit the 95-96 version a bit more. Chances you take though. I bought a 2600 from prostreetonline and I would go with them as they have it EXTREEEMLY CHEAP with free shipping. If not I think AMS has the Gabor clutch that they say is just as good as the 2600 and won't contribute to CW

 

[SpeedFreak03]

I would say 2600, but thats overkill for a FWD, in my opinion. I'd go with the 2100, thats what most modified FWDs run. Also you should probably use an OEM throwout bearing, i've read of some problems with DSMs and ACT TBs.

 

[G_S_X]

I would also recommend the 2100, but i would make sure the clutch is what failed first...

 

[AlecW81]

Check the shifter linkage on top of the tranny first, might be frayed etc. If you're going to do the clutch, you might as well get a decent flywheel as well. Contact RRE (about 90 minutes or so from SD) they might still be running their deal on clutches and flywheels (think it was $100 off if you bought both at the same time) And forget the ACT 2600... get an RRE X-Clutch, it's $100 less than the ACT, has a lighter pedal effort, and holds almost as much HP and ft/lbs as the 2600. Can't go wrong with a Fidanza flywheel either. I swapped in a JDM Trans, Fidanza Flywheel, and the RRE X-Clutch a few months ago, and the difference was night and day. Also, go to http://www.sddsm.org and talk to ItsStockOfficer and some of the other "mechanics" on the site.

 

[SuperDave007]

Check the shifter linkage on top of the tranny first, might be frayed etc. If you're going to do the clutch, you might as well get a decent flywheel as well. Contact RRE (about 90 minutes or so from SD) they might still be running their deal on clutches and flywheels (think it was $100 off if you bought both at the same time) And forget the ACT 2600... get an RRE X-Clutch, it's $100 less than the ACT, has a lighter pedal effort, and holds almost as much HP and ft/lbs as the 2600. Can't go wrong with a Fidanza flywheel either. I swapped in a JDM Trans, Fidanza Flywheel, and the RRE X-Clutch a few months ago, and the difference was night and day. Also, go to http://www.sddsm.org and talk to ItsStockOfficer and some of the other "mechanics" on the site.

yeah that is what i did. i got the RRE x-clutch and fidanza flywheel. they took off $50 but that was in dec or so. but some off the x-clutch disc have been breaking. the springs have been popping and and shit...... it happen to me. a bad bach of clutches got sold or whatever but i talked to mike at RRE and sent him pictures and he sent me i new one next day shipping.