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2G Check engine light with misfire codes P0300, P0304, P1150 need help.

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
i have a 97 gsx automatic with moderate mods and about a month ago i replaced all the spark plugs with ngk bpr7es gapped at .026,new ngk me77 wires,new fuel filter new pcv,and i cleaned the maf sensor out with crc maf sensor cleaner...but before replacing all these things i kept getting a check engine light for P0300 and still with all the new stuff i keep getting these codes? i think i need a tune because the last one was like 3-4yrs ago... im running a walbro 255 without a afpr and i dont have a wideband...also my idle is jumpy it goes from 700-800 up and down never stays still when its warmed up.....

also noticed when im driving and the turbo is spooling and i let go of the gas pedal my idle drops to like 1000 and then goes down to like 100 and almost dies on me.....


i keep getting these 2 codes:

P0304 CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
p1150 fuel pressure solenoid malfunction
 
i have a 97 gsx automatic with moderate mods and about a month ago i replaced all the spark plugs with ngk bpr7es gapped at .026,new ngk me77 wires,new fuel filter and pcv...before replacing all these things i kept getting a check engine light for P0300 and still with all the new stuff i keep getting these codes? i think i need a tune because the last one was like 3-4yrs ago... im running a walbro 255 without a afpr and i dont have a wideband...also my idle is jumpy it goes from 700-800 up and down never stays still when its warmed up.....

does cylinder 4 mean i blown the 4th spark plug? should i replace the 4th plug and see what happens?

i keep getting these 2 codes:

P0304 CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected


check for spark plug wire arcing. bad plug., alsoo i believe the gap should be .30 or .33
 
You might want to check the terminals on the coil packs as well. When you unbolt the coil mounting bracket there are two plastic caps that cover the terminals located on the back. Ive had the little nuts back off from vibrations and cause random multiple misfires before. Thats the only time ive ever had that code thrown on my 2g.

Kolby
 
Do you have any kind tuning system? I use to get both of those codes right when I bought my car, it had this vishnu setup in it but I think it was way out of tune or disconnected. I purchased DSMlink awhile later, installed it and after a day on the dyno for some fine tuning I have not seen the codes since and my idle doesn't flucuate stays steady at 750 RPM's :rocks:

As for the spark plugs I'd gap at .030
 
Do you have any kind tuning system? I use to get both of those codes right when I bought my car, it had this vishnu setup in it but I think it was way out of tune or disconnected. I purchased DSMlink awhile later, installed it and after a day on the dyno for some fine tuning I have not seen the codes since and my idle doesn't flucuate stays steady at 750 RPM's :rocks:

As for the spark plugs I'd gap at .030

yea i have apexi s-afc....but it was tuned like 3-4yrs ago.....i think my problem is i need a tune i bought the car modified and if it was me i think it def needs a afpr and wideband which ill be buyin soon but people say to get the dsmlink before the wideband...
 
yea i have apexi s-afc....but it was tuned like 3-4yrs ago.....
Your right, prob time for a tune

people say to get the dsmlink before the wideband...

If I were you I would invest in Dsmlink before I have it tuned, and I agree with "people" don't worry about a wideband at the moment.
 
how did u remove your mustache on your front bumper because i wanna take mine off?

Very carefully..I made the mistake of starting with a jigsaw :ohdamn:. It made a tiny crack but not that bad. So when I started on the opposite end of the opening I used a schraded knife from my kitchen (be very gentle and saw very slowly to get it started) then I finished with the jigsaw to cut the long straightaway and it turned out swell after a little sanding and smoothing. :thumb:
 
Does the car stutter at all when going WOT?

while im driving no stutters....only notice jumpy idle when im at a stop it will start doin the idle jumping when its really warmed up and i go to stop....it will rev from like 685-740rpms even if i mess with the s-afc it just wont stay stable....and at stops theres lil shaking goin on and im guessin thats cause the idle keeps jumping....

im thinkin soon to ditch the afc for a dsmlink and get me a afpr kit also but now i dont have money so it sucks....
 
Very carefully..I made the mistake of starting with a jigsaw :ohdamn:. It made a tiny crack but not that bad. So when I started on the opposite end of the opening I used a schraded knife from my kitchen (be very gentle and saw very slowly to get it started) then I finished with the jigsaw to cut the long straightaway and it turned out swell after a little sanding and smoothing. :thumb:

LOL that sucks so just use a flat knife? i really dont wanna scratch the paint though.....
 
my friend has a 91 talon and it does that same thing, the idle is really jumppy and screwy, all this could be an idle sensor if you only have idle problems.
 
LOL that sucks so just use a flat knife? i really dont wanna scratch the paint though.....

Yea a flat knife with a schraded edge. Like I said be VERY gentle and take your time. If you don't rush you should be just fine. With a little fine sanding I am very satisfied with mine. Good luck
 
Wait, so your running 660cc's? Do you have the S-AFC set up for the 660's? Do you have a logger? Because if your S-AFC is not set up for the larger injectors you will be running too rich. Possibly fouling out your plugs.

I'm in agreement with this. Plus, if your have you plugs gapped at anything other than .028" you're probably going to have issues. .026" makes me think that you've played with it a bit and have found the sweetspot for your setup. Be sure that's why they're gapped at .026".

Also, disregard comments of trying gaps of .030 and .033
 
Wait, so your running 660cc's? Do you have the S-AFC set up for the 660's? Do you have a logger? Because if your S-AFC is not set up for the larger injectors you will be running too rich. Possibly fouling out your plugs.

how do i set the s-afc for the 660ccs? i mean i bought the car modified and the afc was tuned like 3yrs ago with the 660s in there but i never messed with it....my throttle settings on my afc are 20% low and 70% hi....but people been telling me to bump the low up to 35%? i keep getting a check engine light codes P0300,P0300 PD and sometimes i get a code p1150 for fuel pressure solenoid malfunction.....
 
I'm in agreement with this. Plus, if your have you plugs gapped at anything other than .028" you're probably going to have issues. .026" makes me think that you've played with it a bit and have found the sweetspot for your setup. Be sure that's why they're gapped at .026".

Also, disregard comments of trying gaps of .030 and .033

i gapped them at .026" but even before putting in new plugs and wires i kept getting a check engine light for P0300 misfire so i dunno wtf it could be? i thought new plugs and wires would fix that but still got the same problem... i even cleaned out my maf sensor with crc and put a new filter,pcv,and fuel filter and nothin same sht misfire and once in a while i get a code p1150 fuel pressure solenoid malfunction.....
 
how do i set the s-afc for the 660ccs? i mean i bought the car modified and the afc was tuned like 3yrs ago with the 660s in there but i never messed with it....my throttle settings on my afc are 20% low and 70% hi....but people been telling me to bump the low up to 35%? i keep getting a check engine light codes P0300,P0300 PD and sometimes i get a code p1150 for fuel pressure solenoid malfunction.....

Its been a while since I've played with a S-AFC, but what are your flow fuel settings set at?
 
Its been a while since I've played with a S-AFC, but what are your flow fuel settings set at?

im telling u the afc is a problem i know it alot of people been telling me to ditch it for a dsmlink for the best tuning....but i aint got the money for it now....fuel settings? i dont think there is any on there? all it has is hi throttle and low throttle settings,th-point,ne-point, here is the link to the manual for the s-afc i have:

http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6135.pdf
 
so should i start cutting from the front on the side of it till i go all the way around?

You know it might be easier to take the bumper off so your not leaning on/bending it while on the car. I removed mine and placed it on a work bench which made it so much easier instead of bending over or laying on the ground. I also just thought about sheet metal cutters, I wonder if those will work without cracking the bumper? Start cutting where the curves of the opening are (at the bottom of the mustache on both sides) and at this time the mustache should be fairly flexible (enough to fit a jigsaw blade into so you can continue the cut along the top . If you don't have a jigsaw try using a hacksaw which might actually work better to cut along the top of the stache where its connected to the bumper.
 
im telling u the afc is a problem i know it alot of people been telling me to ditch it for a dsmlink for the best tuning....but i aint got the money for it now....fuel settings? i dont think there is any on there? all it has is hi throttle and low throttle settings,th-point,ne-point, here is the link to the manual for the s-afc i have:

http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6135.pdf

Well a S-AFC isn't that bad. And if you don't have money then just deal with the S-AFC.If I remember right click both "prev. and Next" button at the same time. It should show you your low fuel settings and high setting.

Follow the instructions on pdf pg.22 (page 18 on the actual page)
 
You know it might be easier to take the bumper off so your not leaning on/bending it while on the car. I removed mine and placed it on a work bench which made it so much easier instead of bending over or laying on the ground. I also just thought about sheet metal cutters, I wonder if those will work without cracking the bumper? Start cutting where the curves of the opening are (at the bottom of the mustache on both sides) and at this time the mustache should be fairly flexible (enough to fit a jigsaw blade into so you can continue the cut along the top . If you don't have a jigsaw try using a hacksaw which might actually work better to cut along the top of the stache where its connected to the bumper.

Take it to pm's
 
Well a S-AFC isn't that bad. And if you don't have money then just deal with the S-AFC.If I remember right click both "prev. and Next" button at the same time. It should show you your low fuel settings and high setting.

Follow the instructions on pdf pg.22 (page 18 on the actual page)

im just gonna go to ams and have them ### with it this car is pissin me off and im sick of the jumpy idle...ill bring 4 new spark plugs just incase. ill let u know how it goes im gonna have them tune it. there the ones who did all the work on the car so they should know whats up.
 
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