CEL Running weird no codes Help

[Ragincajun]

K I changed the oil sunday. After changing oil, started car and it ran like shit. It is running like it is not getting spark. At idle and through power band it sputters and vibrates the Sh** out of the car. Changed Wires because one was a little swollen. Still runs like shit. At cruising speed 75 MPH it runs fine. Getting there sucks. Checked and replaced plugs today and it is the same. The check engine light comes on. I tried to get the codes using a test light and cannot get nothing. I am getting fed up. It seems everytime I do normal maintenance, something else goes wrong. Any help would be appreciated

 

[knochgoon24]

Pull the negative terminal off the batter for a min. That should reset the CEL. See if it will kick out a code when it goes off again. It's weird that you're not reading one.

 

[Ragincajun]

Yea it is stuttering like shit. Will you be able to see the codes with a test light, or do you have to use a buzzer. Also I was testing with the car on. Light does not show when the car is off. Comes on after about 1 min after initial start.

Steven

 

[knochgoon24]

This is from vfaq.com

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/electrical/code.html

Make sure your test light is rated for 12v. Otherwise, you might either burn it up or not get a blink at all.

 

[Ragincajun]

Does the Car have to be off, with key ACC position?

 

[Ragincajun]

bump

 

[Ragincajun]

Tried to check code again last night. Still got nothing. The CEL Light does not come on unless the car is running. It still does not kick a code.

 

[super97gst]

Tried to check code again last night. Still got nothing. The Light does not come on unless the car is running. It still does not kick a code.

then it's quite possible you're having a problem with the ECU. anytime there is a problem that the ecu can pick up (electrical), it will throw a code. regardless of the fact that the engine is not actually running. once the ecu throws a cel it will stay on until reset. as soon as you turn the key on the cel should be right there, normally. however, if the ecu is starting to fail it could cause a no cel at certain times. it is possible your ecu could have leaky capacitors in it. which is a known problem on 1G's.

 

[Ragincajun]

That sounds great. How do I test that???

 

[Ragincajun]

bump

 

[BootlegGreg]

Using a test light never worked for me. I hooked up my multi-meter and set it on Millivolts and it was much easier to see what the code was. When I had the light hooked up it seemed like the pulse was so fast that the bulb never had a chance to light up.

 

[Ragincajun]

Using a test light never worked for me. I hooked up my multi-meter and set it on Millivolts and it was much easier to see what the code was. When I had the light hooked up it seemed like the pulse was so fast that the bulb never had a chance to light up.

Was your car kicking out a code when you turned the key, mine is not. the onlytime it kicks a code is when the car is running.

 

[Ragincajun]

Now I am pissed. I go to test the codes last nite wit the multimeter, and The damn light wold not come on. Let it warm up and no lite. So I decided to take it for a drive. Still no lite. Ran cherry. Why can't it be a hard failure. Something that I can find and fix. Not run great for a few months, do some minor maintenance and BAM, run like SH*T.

So then I decide to take it to work this morning. Alternator belt squeaks. Say to self, could be from the terrential rain last night, need to tighten that thing up. I get 5 miles from the house and snap. Belt breaks. This is just wonderful...

 

[Misuta Yancha]

I had a simmilar problem with the code read... I was able to get codes pulled, but when a shop plugged in their unit nothing happened, it turned out to be that one of the wires running to the data port was loose

 

[Ragincajun]

Yeah but it is not stuttering any more. It is running like a champ, or was til the belt broke.