The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

car wont start

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tstkl

20+ Year Contributor
3,890
78
Feb 10, 2005
SoCal, California
ok so i took out my intake pipe, stock mas, air filter, licp, intercooler, uicp, intake manifold, put on a new one, new throttle body elbow, a gm 3 inch mas, and a maft, but nothing else so far, i need to remove the ac so the intercooler will fit... i actually have everything on the car right now except the second half of the intercooler pipe (both lower and upper) and the intercooler.. doesnt matter cuz its in blow through set up, right? wrong.. go to start the car and it wont catch, just turns over. i held it for a little bit cuz i thought it might just be from the car not running since 8-25-05.... didnt work... so i stop and try again... THUNK.. sounds like something fell out of my car... then the same thing.. one last time... same thing... got out of my car... looked around as hard as i could for anything possible... only thing i can think of.. the line for my coolant which goes downward and attaches to nothing was pinched shut.. maybe my ignition is in the wrong order.. dunno how i have it right now, but i went by what someone posted here.. any help is greatly appreciated.. im scared to death right now.. i dont want to have to take it somewhere....
 
trying to think of leaky spots... could the air filter i have on the valve cover (instead of re routing it back into the intake like stock...) be the problem,... im going to tighen everything and see how that works...

edit: also o2 sensor is reading .3 volts... higher than before when it wouldnt start, but not normal...timings at 5 degrees...tbody was at 10% at idle til i bumped it up to 15 to see if it would idle that way...

could the threads to the npt nipples i have at the bottom of my smim be leaking air?

what should i use to lube the orings for the injectors?

i found a napa near me... im so excited... its only like 10 miles away...
 
You have a habit of talking to yourself out loud on paper ROFL

You need three things to start and keep the car running. Proper air/fuel mixture, properly timed ignition and compression. I believe your problem is the first, mainly your maf. Are you back on the GM or still with stock? Are all IC pipes hooked up?
 
gm, and its on the uicp... i need the car to run in order to get it to a gas station to get the freon discharged so i can remove the lines and dryier in the front to make room for the new fmic intercooler i bought... the old maf just happens to have a similar od to the id of a gatorade bottle, which, with proper tape, makes for a great adapter....LOL only for testing.... i think i have vacume leaks though... not a bad maf... because when i gave it gas to keep it running the maf would go up to 500 hz... and when i took my foot off it would go way down... to me signifying that the engine was getting its air fix from somewhere else for the amount of fuel it was getting, so it gave it less fuel since no air was passing the maf... but maybe the maf is broken... let me go have another gatorade and well find out...

also, am i right to think that the torque of the intake manifold is 14-22 ft lbs...i checked in haynes and it says 8mm bolts should be at like 130 inch lbs... (i couldnt find any 8mm bolts on the manifold... they were all 10 and 12s...) and that the 10s should be at something like 20 ft lbs... with no mention to the 12s, which is the most common one... (i think there are only like 2 10 mm ones...)

edit: o2 was at .03 volts, peak, not .3....
 
tstkl said:
gm, and its on the uicp... i need the car to run in order to get it to a gas station to get the freon discharged so i can remove the lines and dryier in the front to make room for the new fmic intercooler i bought... the old maf just happens to have a similar od to the id of a gatorade bottle, which, with proper tape, makes for a great adapter....LOL only for testing.... i think i have vacume leaks though... not a bad maf... because when i gave it gas to keep it running the maf would go up to 500 hz... and when i took my foot off it would go way down... to me signifying that the engine was getting its air fix from somewhere else for the amount of fuel it was getting, so it gave it less fuel since no air was passing the maf... but maybe the maf is broken... let me go have another gatorade and well find out...
Then what are you waiting for? Hook up a leak tester to the TB elbow, spray everything down with soapy water and go to it. pay special attention to TB shaft seals, BISS, Injector insulators, and all four thread vacuum nipples.

also, am i right to think that the torque of the intake manifold is 14-22 ft lbs...i checked in haynes and it says 8mm bolts should be at like 130 inch lbs... (i couldnt find any 8mm bolts on the manifold... they were all 10 and 12s...) and that the 10s should be at something like 20 ft lbs... with no mention to the 12s, which is the most common one... (i think there are only like 2 10 mm ones...)
Manifold bolts : 11-14 ft.lbs. 3 nuts : 22-30 ft.lbs.
 
havent made a boost leak tester yet... any house hold items i can use for the vavle and the cap?

what do you lube the injector insolators with (and this whole time ive been calling them orings... just realised thats the thing around the tip of the injector...)
 
tstkl said:
what do you lube the injector insolators with (and this whole time ive been calling them orings... just realised thats the thing around the tip of the injector...)
There are two tips to every injector :D , the upper seal that goes into the fuel rail is call the injector o-ring, dielectric grease should be used during installation. The lower seal that goes into the head is call injector insulator, some uses RTV during install but not necessary unless it still leaks after install like in my case.
 
k well i left the injectors on the rail so i dont think that should be a problem then...

just tightened all the bolts so lets see if it will idle tomorrow... (the battery isnt charged enof to start the car without me jumping it, and right now my car is on the right side of the driveway, and the car i have to jump it has its battery on the drivers side, so when i want to jump it i have to manuver my moms minivan between the house and the basketball hoop to get the batteries close enough, and roll the car out, jump it, then when it doesnt work, get 2 or 3 people to help push it back in the garage...)

edit: then if it doesnt work im taking the batt to napa to get it charged since they said they could do that... i bought a can of sea foam while i was there, is there anything else i should get?
 
took the battery to a shell station (so i wouldnt have to deal with my crappy jumping set up....) and they charged it for like 30 minutes (i had to go to football....) and then i told them i had to go, the guy tested it and he said the battery is dead and i have to get a new one.... he charged it with the caps off, so the acid was exposed.... and i dont think they know what there doing there... im lucky it didnt charge cuz they said it would have been 10 bucks if it had... and napa said they could do it for 5 when i went there... and they would load test it and all this stuff... the people at napa seem a lot smarter than the people at shell....
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top