Car won't start, Electrical, Trouble Codes P0340, P0105

[MarcVIII]

Ok I was beginning to install my Fuel Pump Rewire kit and got the main wire through the passenger rubber grommet. I didn't hook anything up as it started getting dark and thought I was at a good stopping place. Its not connected to the car at all, just run through the grommet. I did a search before posting this, everyone seemed to have quick fixes on this.

When I put my battery back on, I accidentally arced the positive terminal to my strut tower bar. The car now won't start and is exhibiting a few weird electrical issues. I was getting Trouble Codes P0340 (Cam Positioning Sensor), P0105 (Manifold Pressure Circuit). I attempted resetting them and only the P0105 came back, but I cranked it for a shorter time. Could arcing the battery fry either of these sensors, or might it be the whole ECU?

The other weird thing is when I pull my key out, the battery and oil lights in the dash stay on and the car stays powered as if in the accessory position on the key switch. This goes away when you unplug the battery, but comes back when you crank it.

I know I'm getting fuel cause I pulled the plugs and saw that it was dumping fuel. Again, I didn't do anything on the fuel pump, just prepared the wire to get ready to be utilized when I fix this issue. It seemed it would sometimes spark cause I pulled a wire and watched it arc, although sometimes it would and other times it wouldn't. Wires are in good shape and I never had any problems starting before.

I do have a 97 atx AWD TSi parts car, and mine is a 97 5speed GST Spyder. I read elsewhere that worse case scenario is that I fried the ECU, would that one work? I assume the sensors would work as I know they were good cause the car died from a rod through the pan incident.

Marc

 

[MarcVIII]

P0105 keeps coming back, so I think its more toward that. I tried switching with a known good MAF and that didn't work. What / Where is this MAP / Barometric sensor? Is that the one on top of the intake manifold w/ the 2 bolts holding it in and the red plug?

 

[MarcVIII]

Changed what I think is the MAP sensor on the manifold. Still no start. This was with the original MAF. Cleaned plugs w/ a cleaner and electrical plug boots w/ contact cleaner. Any ideas / help?

 

[MarcVIII]

Ok so now I pulled to ECU to check for burns, any sign of damage. Looks and smells fine, pins are all fine. My car is DEFINITELY getting fuel, last night I was seeing spark and nothing has compromised air flow.

Still haven't touched the CAS / CPS as that code hasn't come back on.

I'm completely stuck. I'm looking at towing to the dealer.

I REALLY NEED HELP

 

[luv2rallye]

The baro sensor is in the MAF (next to the air cleaner). It rarely goes out so check it's connectors pins 1 (sensor ground) & 2 (signal) for corrosion, dirty, not locked in place, etc first. The signal goes to ECU pin 85.

 

[MarcVIII]

The MAF pins are clean and undamaged. Any other ideas? I'm really looking at troubleshooting this myself as I hate the thought of a dealer touching my car and the charging me rape to tell me.

I tried my ECU from a 97 TSi AWD atx. Same codes came up, same issues. The casing looked different and the part numbers were different.

 

[MarcVIII]

I was told maybe the alternator could've locked up due to the surge? Might that be a reason?

I'm reading you have to get the 1st cylinder to TDC to install the CPS? Still haven't tried that. I had a code for that, but could that be a reason for it not starting. Would a malfunctioning CPS prevent the car from running?

 

[MarcVIII]

Tried switching out just the CPS sensor itself. Nothing. Anyone nearby have an ECU for a 97 5spd they wanna lend me. Everything seems to be pointing to the ECU. Anyone willing to send me a 5spd GST Spyder ECU to test this theory? If it turns out to be the issue, we can talk cash.

Just out of curiosity, would an EPROM work w/o problem here? Any benefit for a lightly modded car where basically choosing turbo and injectors for next mods?