Car won't start after full tear down/rebuild

[redline2k6]

Ok, so heres the deal: I completely stripped the car in order to rebuild it, and strip anything off of it not needed for the track. That also included the engine and interior wiring harnesses so I could clean them up and re-wrap them. I put the motor back in, put the harnesses back in, and I've been trying to start the car for about 4 days now, with no luck. The first day, we couldnt get the starter relay to click when the key went to START. I couldn't figure out where the starter relay was (which I found out later was underneath the dash, to the left of the steering column) so I wired up a push button start. So after wiring that up, the car turns over, the fuel pumps come on, spark plugs are firing (cam angle sensor is on correctly, we tried it 180* out too) but the car won't start. We ended up checking the timing, pulled the timing belt off and re-timed it, still nothing. We checked the coolant temp sensor, and its reading on DSMlink so I imagine its good. We can get it to seem like its starting, but it won't idle. If we move the throttle a little bit open and closed we can get it to stay on, but only for like 3-4 seconds. The one time that it did manage to idle, it only did it for 10 seconds, but sounded like the firing order was wrong. We checked it, multiple times, and right now its 4-1-2-3. And I'm not sure if its supposed to be like this, but we found that the Alternator relay is recieving power at all times, even with the motor off. It goes to 5v with the key in ACC and goes to 12 when in ON. And we bled the lifters and did a compression test.

I AM AT A LOSS. Me and two of my buddies have been trying it daily for the past 4 days, and can't get ANYTHING. I'm completely stuck. I have a log of me trying to start it to see if anyone can get a glimpse of whats going on and see if they can see a problem. I am new to DSMLink so I'm not sure if I'm doing everything correctly.

Heres a list of everything thats been done to the car before I put it back together:

Wiesco/Eagle combo (8.5:1)
polished stock crank
ACL tri-metal bearings
ARP everything
7 bolt fully ported head
272 BC cams
BC springs/retainers
Ferrea valves (1mm over)
HKS timing belt
ATI super dampner
balance shaft eliminator (with bearings turned to block old oil passages)
New oil pump/front cover
JM Fab race manifold with Nissan Q45 throttle body
Forced Performance exhaust manifold
Forced Performance 3575
Forced Performance O2 housing
Tial 44mm wastegate
Tial BOV
Full Blown Motorsports twin in-tank pump setup with dual 255's
FIC 1050cc injectors
Full -8an stainless steel lines from tank to Earls inline filter
Aeromotive fuel rail
Aeromotive compact regulator (-6an)
-6an stainless steel return line to tank
4 bolt rear swap
Shep Stage 3 tranny
GM 3'' MAF with MAF Translator (zeroed out)
DSMLINK

Now for the stuff I took out on the rebuild
EGR system
BCS/FPS
A/C
Heater core

 

[BrokenTsi]

Depending on what version maft you have, its not supposed to be zeroed out completely. The first switch needs to be on "2", if my memory serves me right. Check out the instructions for it.

 

[redline2k6]

i thought with dsmlink they tell you to zero the maft out

 

[BrokenTsi]

the low mid and high, yes, but the first knob I believe has to be on "2". I'm not sure if that will keep it from starting tho.

 

[yesItsdsm]

If you're having a no start problem check the basics first.. Fuel, spark etc..

 

[RoasT BeeF]

Which coolant temp sensor did you check? There is one on the thermostat housing and one on the radiator. If the one on the thermostat housing (green and black wire) is not connected or not working, car wont start.

 

[redline2k6]

the one on the thermostat is hooked up (and brand new) , we have fuel and spark as well

 

[Burnett03]

Is the mechanical timing correct?