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2G Car wont crank!

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Dsm304

10+ Year Contributor
142
0
Nov 17, 2011
Mission, Texas
i recently had this new problem on my dsm decited to drive my car one day around the block got back home parked it turned it off everything was normal 30 minutes later after going to work decited to drive it to work but my car wouldent crank at all tought might be the started went bad did a warranty on it got a new one slapped it on the car and no crank took my battery to charge it since it was a bit low got it back and put it on and no crank searched around the web a bit and came up across some people having problems with the stater relay so i bypassed before i buy the relay but still no crank at all! its getting annoying already i need help im guessing the switch is working fine since fuel pump goes on turning the key foward theres just no crank tought i tought maybe the engine gave it out but nope went under and gave it a few turns with a ratchet and turned like butter since its just buid! i did put the scanner and the only code it gave me was my crank sensor but still thats no reason why it shouldent crank is it? from what ive heard if that sensor gives out it will crank but wount start so im pretty confused on whats going on with my car i really need help here any toughts or someone with the same experience on this please help thanks!:banghead:
 
Do a voltage drop test from the positive terminal to the starter terminal and then do one from the negative terminal to the case of the starter, let us know the results.
 
Nope haven't bypassed that one yet just the starter relay how do I bypass the clutch safety switch? Is there a thread on it already?

There is a thread on how to diagnose a no start, but as for the clutch safety switch you should be able to just unplug it according to the no start thread.

If that doesn't work do as the other dsmer is saying and do the voltage test.
 
Do a voltage drop test from the positive terminal to the starter terminal and then do one from the negative terminal to the case of the starter, let us know the results.

I did a battery relocation to trunk about a year ago and my multimeter cables wount reach from the post to the starter
 
Do a voltage drop test from the positive terminal to the starter terminal and then do one from the negative terminal to the case of the starter, let us know the results.

Get a soldering gun and extra wire and make leads that will.

:ohdamn: haha never thought of that ill do it in a bit and see what I get

Double check all of your grounds.

I'll check again and try to find on how to bypass the clutch safety switch thread I have homework for tonight now haha :D
 
Well I solved the problem with a help of a local friend DSMer he told me to connect a ground cable on the intake to the firewall before doing anything else which I did and car turned on like a champ. I found it pretty weird now it turned on just because of that one cable I don't have now it turns on all the time like before and thanks everyone for the helpful thoughts and for the help I appreciate it guys!
 
Proper battery negative connection: Your large negative battery cable should go from battery negative to a starter mounting bolt on bell housing (so you get full voltage at starter [no voltage drops across other ground connections] and so you don't burn up any other grounds at start time). Connect this cable on the negative post itself. A separate cable should go from battery negative to firewall. [Don't go from battery negative to firewall and then from there to starter mounting bolt as this creates another connection point which will creates another voltage drop with the high starter current.]
 
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