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Car will not start/fire.

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Nava

Probationary Member
6
0
Jan 11, 2009
Indianola, Illinois
So here's the deal. I bought this 90 tsi awd for cheap, it had been sitting for a year and some time before that it had some problems concerning the ECU/ISC. It would stop idling/die when the car warmed up to its normal temp. Well the guy got his ECU reprogrammed, and he hasn't messed with it after that. So me being curious after i bought the car, plugged the new ECU back in, bought a new battery and tried to start it. After cranking for a while, nothing. Tried later on, nothing. Got out the either.. still didn't work. If you were me, what would you do to get this thing going?
 
As ShawnsGarage suggested, you need to check the obvious things first, such as spark and fuel. Do you have a spare spark plug? You could disconnect one of the leads, and plug in the spare plug, earth it, and turn over the engine briefly.

If you have spark and fuel, check that the ECU is still okay. Mine had leaking capacitors in it, and this is a common problem for early ECUs. Some people say the leaking capacitors smell like rotten egg, but I could not smell anything.

When I got my car, which had been sitting for three years, it had multiple problems. The ECU was not working, the intake manifold gasket was leaking, the TPS was stuffed, and the EGR valve was completely blocked.

When I fixed the ECU and started my car, it would cut out at idle. I fixed that by replacing the manifold gasket. The original poor idle problem might not be the same problem you are having now.
 
The ECU was just reprogrammed for OEM standards.

Which is BS since they can't do diddly to the program on most DSM ECUs.

Based on what I've seen they likely did a hack job changing the caps and called it a day when it powered up. Most "professional" rebuilders don't care how long it works as long as it's cheap. They have a pile of "reprogrammed" junk to send you if it doesn't last as long as their warranty and somehow manages to find it's way back to them.

The question was asked if the check engine light turns on for a few seconds and then turns off when you first turn the ignition on. That's the first step in helping you.
 
I'll find that out in just a little bit. If that is the case, what can i do about it?
 
If it doesn't the odds are very high that you will need to get your ECU repaired or replaced.
The next test will be to check the MPI fuse on the battery, for power at the MPI relay and test the relay. The fuse can blow but the relay doesn't fail that often. The most common failure is the ECU from either the capacitors leaking or in much smaller numbers natural causes.
 
Could be the cam sensor my car did that and it ended up being the cam sensor

It could be since 90 CAS wires are often dried out and broken but until we know if the ECU is powering up it's pointless to look elsewhere. Nothing interesting will happen if the ECU is dead.
 
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