Car Stinks!

[PhoenixRPR]

'92 Eclipse GSX.

OK, I have 2 problems I'd like some troubleshooting on.

1) My car stinks, literally. After running it normally, it smells bad, and after running it harder, it smells even worse. I'm not burning oil, so i think the burnt smell is fuel. I am getting 19 mpg on avg. so where should I start looking for problems leading to a poor smell while and after driving? I have minimal NO, HC and CO emissions because I replaced my EGR, Catyltic Converter, and O2 sensor. I have fairly new plus and plug wires. Ideas?

2) At random times (to me at least), 3 instrument lights come on in the dash. They are coolant, battery, and emergency brake. Those 3 lights come on dimly sometimes, and even brighter at other times. But it's definitely always those 3, and always in unison. Thing is, there's nothing wrong at all with my coolant, battery, or emergency brake because I just flushed my coolant and replaced my battery and the e-brake works fine. I can't figure out what is causing the lights to come on and then turn off randomly. Just an electrical/fuse problem?

 

[GTM]

...
When they all 3 come on at the same time it indicates a problem in the charging system (ALT not working, fault ground, ANYTHING that would prevent the battery from charging) - which you pretty much proved is the case with the voltage drop.

Let's slow up here, if I remember correctly they come on DIM, not bright. The dim indicates there is balance problem which usually suggests a ground but we don't know where they wired any of this trick radio stuff and may have spliced into a dash light circuit.

The fact it's producing 14.4 volts says the Alt is working when given half a chance and without tests should not be condemned as being faulty. Good grief, if he's like some of these other people here who stick a 2,000 watt Amp in a charging system that can only produce 150amps he's dealing in negative numbers if nothing is running except the radio. So even if it's pulling 700 watts average, the headlighs and heater are on at idle it aint puttin nuttin in the battery and what he observes is going to be normal. I think the minimum threshold is 11.4 volts and he's so close to that with the 12v it's a wonder he doesn't have to have a set of jumpers with him at all times. In several posts I mention RADIO and it's only today we find he has amp and sub woofers that we have no idea how many holes they cut, how many screws went into the top of the gas tank while racking our brain for answers. I've done every thing I can, take it to a pro who gets paid.

When you go to the Doctor you tell them what's wrong, you don't say you are the doc you figure it out.

GTM

 

[huafist]

I agree with you GTM, if you look at the REST of my post you see that I suggested he might have more system than ALT. I never indicated that the ALT was faulty, considering he said it's less than 6 months old.
You're right, he needs to take it and have it once-overed by someone who knows car stereos, because that's probably where the problem lies.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Ok gentlemen, I need to get something off my chest. The last thing in the world I want to do on dsmtuners is upset a "wiseman" such as GTM, especially after he's been kind enough to give me multiple responses in this thread. However, I must point out GTM that it seems a little as though you're almost looking for words strung together in a manner you disagree with, or believe you could've lassoed together better, and revel in pointing it out. I'm getting the mental depiction of a man packing his six-guns, firing off rounds at the comments and people he considers "noobish", to justify further his retort. It's just discouraging to be talked down upon. I'm a 23 year old commercial insurance broker recently graduated from the 7th best ranked school in the nation, but I'm not rubbing anyone's nose in it as you seem to be with your vast dsm expertise, which is always appreciated, at least from this dsm-enthusiast. An example of what I'm referring to is the following statement:

"In several posts I mention RADIO and it's only today we find he has amp and sub woofers that we have no idea how many holes they cut..." - GTM

However, as you can see below I actually had mentioned an amplifier before today.
"Any radio work done in the last month or so should also be checked for good connections." <----YES. I have had problems with my amplifier cutting out the right side of my car's side entirely. I have to mess with the amp wiring to get it to come back. I can't figure out the source of the problem, but I think the amp may be defective. It's a Rockford Fosgate 551X 4-channel."

Ok, this nonsense aside, I do think perhaps a 90amp fresh alternator could help, but I won't know until I can give it a shot. My stereo system is nothing ridiculous. Aftermarket speakers in the typical 6 locations for a 1G, 4-channel Rockford Fosgate 551X 400 watt amp and just one 10" Punch! subwoofer (200watt I think). My battery is receiving a proper charge from the alternator as I monitor it regularly, but I'm not discounting the power fluctuations could be due to the stereo draw on the alternator. I don't know the exact wiring configuration aside from the fact that both the power and ground wires to the amp are 4 gauge. I do not have a cap either. I can simply unplug the amp and see if the problem goes away, and if it does, I'll be sure to let you all know.

GTM, this wasn't a post to flame you, just to ask for a bit of patience from those with less knowledge.

 

[GTM]

Ok gentlemen,
...

You of course are entiteled to your opinion.

I do this for fun, I've given you 2 or 3 hours out of my life for free and I'm not the only person following this thread that is upset with you. And now you want to put a torch to my backside.

Good luck with your project.

GTM

 

[realhp=turbo]

Back to the matter at hand..
Just for the record I have not heard about this stereo. What is the wattage output exactly? How was it grounded? when the head unit was installed were the factory plugs cut out or did you pop the 11 dollars for the proper harness adapter? All of these types of things need to be addressed. Do you have anything else added to the electrical system, ie turbo timer, electronic boost control, Gm maft translator, af gauge, egt gauge? Just for shits an giggles have you pulled the alt out and had it tested?

GTM, no need to get all riled up we all want to hear what you have to say.
mike

OOps I suppose I should read alttle more before I post eh?

My recamendation, Jack up the radiator cap and drive a new car under it. Sorry dude

 

[PhoenixRPR]

Time to let this thread die, thanks for the assistance.

 

[Judacoth]

You do have two different problems here. First the Alternator (when vehicle is running and under load) should maintain a 13.8 to 14.2 volt reading. TEST IT. Let me also explain that this is taking into consideration you have a good battery. A bad battery will make the alternator overwork and you'll have a false read. So for example if you get lets say a 14.5 reading, have the battery tested independently under load before condeming the alternator. If both the alternator and battery are good, then most likely you are seeing the beginning signs of an electrical problem which will eventually manifest itself forward with other symptoms.

The burning smell could be either leaking fuel from bad injector seals or faulty injectors. Otherwise it could be a coolant leak or circulation problem (bad heater core).

Good Luck.

 

[PhoenixRPR]

According to my voltmeter gauge, I'm getting between 13.8 - 15.8 volts under load. I know the first reaction to this is to say the voltage regulator of the alternator must be bad, which is possible. However, the voltages are 80% between 13.8-14.2, but once in a while spike to almost 16 volts regardless of whether the stereo is in use or not. The battery reads appx. 12 volts when the engine is not running. I'll swap in an alternator from my local parts store at some point soon to see if that resolves the dash lighting problem and the overvoltages.