Car Randomly Going Lean

[StrokerMax]

and I replaced my coolant temp sensor when I rebuilt the motor. Its only got 35 miles on it

 

[StrokerMax]

Closed Loop requirements:

§ Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)
§ Airflow too low (units are tricky, but it's very low)
§ Coolant temp < 51F
§ Coolant temp > 228F
§ The O2 sensor did not switch around 0.5v for over 128 seconds while running in closed loop mode. In that case, the ECU locks itself in open loop mode.

2G Learn mode (all must be true)

§ Coolant temp >= 180F
§ Intake air temp < 133F
§ Baro >= 22.9 inHg
§ Baro ⇐ 31.6 inHg

Since I only have V1 ECUlink I cannot see my TPS. That is the only thing I think it could be. I should meet everything else for closed loop. Correct me if I'm wrong.

But would closed loop stop my stalling issue? Or maybe my new ECT is not working right

 

[StrokerMax]

Okay... Sorry for to continue rattling on about my problem. Just want to keep the thread going incase anyone else encounters a similar problem as me.

I've done a ton of research and must have 2 separate problems:

1) I need to upgrade my ECULink so I can make sure my TPS is adjusted correctly (Causing my open loop issue)

2) I have a bad coil pack or crankshaft position sensor. When the motor gets hot it causes them to fail. Upon cooling down it starts right back up.

 

[eclipsyco]

Damn this truly sucks kinda hard to know. And you keep throwing money at it with no luck.
Man have check the compression!?

 

[StrokerMax]

I was going to pull my box of parts out of the shed that came with the car. Hope I have an extra CPS that I can throw on to test. Going to see tonight.

This entire car has been an experient. It's never ran since I've owned it. Prior owner had so many hacked parts.

I haven't check the compression since my rebuild. I've only put like 30 miles on most of which have been driving around the block to test the car. I doubt my rings are even fully seated. I'll check and see what the compression looks like. Hope it's not a motor problem. That would suck big time

 

[StrokerMax]

Okay so compression numbers didn't look good. I was 120 on the point over every cylinder.

Is that okay based on the motor is brand new and my rings are probably not seated yet? I sure hope this new motor is good. Not sure what could have went wrong.

Its got 30 miles on it tops.

 

[StrokerMax]

Oops I just realized that I didn't hold down the throttle when I cranked it over during my comp test. That could have affected my test.

 

[StrokerMax]

I ordered a new CPS and coil pack this week. CPS should be here tomorrow. I'm almost positive the CPS is my issues. Why else would the car die while in gear rolling... The motor was still running but RPMS drop to zero.

I didn't try doing another compression test yet. I don't want to keep running my new motor at idle in the garage to warm it up. I need to put some load on the engine or I risk ruining my compression forever. Next time I test it out with the new CPS I will compression test it though. Just want to keep you guys updated. Thanks again for the help.

 

[StrokerMax]

Okay some good news. I put on my new CPS and took the car around the block. I didn't stall out at full operating temp this time. So I think that is one problem off the list.

But it is still acting funky when hot. It was cutting out (Like I took my foot off the gas but I didn't). Maybe a fuel leak? Any ideas? I suppose bad tunning could cause this. I have a coil pack that will arrive tomorrow. Maybe that could be part of the problem too? It seems every remaining part on this car was bad. Just replace everything

I am also still stuck in open loop but I am pretty sure thats related to a needed TPS adjustment and only having DSMlink V1. I also have my stock 2G MAF. Not sure that could hurt things. Maybe I need to upgrade to a GM once I go V3

 

[eclipsyco]

Well glad to hear that you solved that at least...
You know you can test the TPS with a multimeter you don't really need link for that... Yes of course link makes it much easier but if you must then go ahead and do it the old school style!

 

[StrokerMax]

Well I don't think the TPS is exactly bad but I need the idle adjust/TPS Idle switch tool that V3 has. My car seems to idle at around 1100 rpms when my target idle is set at 900.

I noticed one of the closed loop requirements is (Throttle position too high (varies by RPM)) I'm just speculating but I think that is why I won't kick over to open loop. But not much I can do about it with V1. I've been trying to get in touch with ECU Link about their upgrade program VS buying the whole new program.

 

[StrokerMax]

I found one more potential cause of my lean issue/Evap code. I have all aftermarket fuel lines but the prior owner had JB welded the return line in the fuel pump hanger and it was leaking. I'm sure my fuel system didn't have adequate suction/proper sealing. When I put in my Walboro 450 I think I made the leak worse. I'm working on welding some AN fittings into the hanger. I'll try to post a couple picks when I'm done.

SO many issues with this car. Goes to show why things need to be done right. Like using a tig welder rather than JB weld. I don't know how to tig but I pay a guy in town 20 bucks to do a basic weld for me. Well worth the money.

 

[mercaholik]

Two things, not to insult you but have you done a boost leak test yet? Also I believe there is a ground wire that is attached to the t/b for the tps. Sometimes people don't re connect it and also what type of w/b are you using and had it been calibrated?