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Car ran fine until it died when I turned the heat on. Any suggestions?

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adammethner05

15+ Year Contributor
214
0
Aug 31, 2006
Fremont, Ohio
Hi everyone, it seems I've gotten myself into another dilemma. The other day, I finally finished putting my car back together after changing my headgasket, and tried to start it and it would turn over but wouldn't start. The next morning I got bored and tried to start it, and it fired up after a couple tries and seemed to run pretty well. Idled fine and I shut it off started it a few times and it would start right up everytime and everything. After I checked for leaks and didn't find any (while letting the car idle to break everything back in), I decided to take it for a test run to my house. Mind you I live all the way across town from my garage, which where I live means a good half mile (at the most) LOL. About a block away from my house I said to myself "Hmm let's see if the heat works." So I crank the heat out of boredom, to my delight heat came out (go figure), and then turning into my driveway the car died, and I haven't been able to start it since then. It turns over, but there doesn't seem to be any signs that it's going to start. When I turn the key to the on position, I don't hear the fuel pump turn on like I used to, but when I turn it over I can hear it pumping. I've searched for possible reasons to why it won't start, and here's what I've come up with...Cam position sensor, crank position sensor, vacuum leak (don't know if this would cause it to not start), spark plugs, wires, coil, any random sensor that could be unplugged by accident, fuses, fuel pump, or the actual ECU itself (it is a '95, ugh). Is there a reason why my car would've started with one or more of these problems but for some reason it won't start now? I found it weird that it ran fine but right after I turned on my heat the car died. I haven't had a chance to check anything yet, as it's been snowing like mad the past few days and my car is stuck in my driveway, but I'm trying to avoid spending a boatload of money having a shop diagnose the problem. If anybody has any suggestions, or any addition to my list of things to check, it would be most appreciated. And thanks to anybody who actually reads this as I just noticed it's pretty long.:talon:
 
This might not help any, but the first thing i would do is to check the fuses, and the relays. Im having a problem similiar to this. If my car doesnt start right away, I have to leave the key on for 10 seconds and it will start just fine. Im thinking it is the fuel pump, I just dont have the time to get to it. You might want to check the electrical connections where the headgasket leak was. If those connections got oil into them they will have a bad connection. On-clip them and clean them with some electrical cleaner and a fine metal brush or steel wool. When putting back together put some dielectric greese on the connection.

If nothing after you have checked everything else, disconnect your battery for a half hour or so. Let the computer recycle. I say do this last, because if you havn't had a chance to get the car checked out, or scanned by an obd II, than you will loose all code.

If you do have a check engine light you can check the codes yourself, but you better have a good eye. Turn your key on, off, on, off, on and weight 5 seconds.
Here is a better explanation for that.
http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=8
 
If the car died immediatly after starting the heater I would check the relay and the fuses associated. Although i see no direct relation with the heating system and the ignition system it would be the first place to start. I would also check the coil and make sure your are getting spark to all 4 terminals so we can rule out alot of other issues.
 
When you turn the key to the "ON" position, does the Check Engine light illuminate on the dash for a little bit? If not, then it could be a bad ECU since it won't power up and that is a sign that it is powering up when the light is on.
 
If you do have a check engine light you can check the codes yourself, but you better have a good eye. Turn your key on, off, on, off, on and weight 5 seconds.
Here is a better explanation for that.
http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=8

I'm pretty much new when it comes to working with ECU codes and whatnot, since the only other car I've really worked on is my 71 riviera, so that's definitely something I didn't know:thumb:.Thank you very much for that info, I'll probably try to check that out on my car when I get a chance.

As far as checking the coil and spark plugs, I'll probably do that when I get home from class later on in the day, after I clear the huge amount of snow off my hood. I'm pretty sure the Check Engine light does illuminate for a few seconds like it's supposed to, but I'm not 100 percent certain because I can't check my car right now. I will definitely do that when I'm checking the plugs/wires and I'll post my findings hopefully in a few hours.

Thanks a lot to everybody who's responded so far, you've all been quite helpful. :talon:
 
Let's see, just undid some connectors, installed HG and then had a problem starting. The next day, with no change, it fired right up and drove around. Then when you took a corner into your driveway (forget about the heat), she died out. This smells a lot like a loose connector to a sensor or something. I JUST went through this with a buddy of mine who changed out a fuel rail on a 4g63. It turned out his arm had hit the ingnitor connector and knocked it off. He pushed on it a little and the car fired right up (then he promptly swore at me :p ).

You might want to go through and check all your connectors (even the ones that you may have just been "close' to).

If that doesn't work then do the fuel/spark check.

MB
 
Sorry it's been longer than I expected before I re-posted, but I ended up checking the ECU codes with that neat key on-off trick, and the only CEL that came up was 12, which is the PCU has been unplugged within the last 50 turns of the key...unimportant I'm guessing. I checked the plug wires to make sure they were all on tight and they were. Didn't check to see if the plugs were in all the way yet, but I'm 99.9 percent sure they are. Strange thing is, I let my mom listen to me trying to start it (my dad's been working on cars for 30 years, so she knows more about them than me), and she said it sounds like it's a timing issue. I really hope not but maybe that's something else I should check out. I'd hate to have to rip off everything to take the cover off again, but I guess if I want to get the car running again it'll be worth it. Definitely one of my last resorts though.

And thanks bullettdsm, hopefully it is something little like a connector that might've come loose or something similarly easy to fix. Sorry that your friend swore at you, I promise I won't scream loudly into the air if there's something simple preventing my car from running LOL. I might scream THANK YOU!!! loudly though. Maybe I'll tow the car down to the garage and put it up on ramps (PITA, I can't drive onto them,and can't get my jack under my bumper so I have to use a tiny jack on the side first LOL) and check everything underneath out as well.
 
does it try to turn over?? try this, take a small funnel, pore just a tiny bit of fuel into the intake manifold... if it starts up you know it's a fuel problem if it doesn't, we know it is a spark or air problem. if it is a fuel problem and you cant hear the fuel pump work when you turn the key to the on position... that's where i'd start, make sure everything is fastened all the way and clamped tight, check the fuses and relays relating to the fuel. if still nothing, you can get an aftermarket fuel pump for about 85bucks. and then go from there.
 
Yep it definitely turns over. I have that little square piece taken off of my timing cover, and I see the marks on my cam sprockets in a different spot everytime I try to start it, so at least the motor isn't frozen up or anything. That's a pretty good idea to put fuel into the intake, should I just take off my short ram and put the funnel through the TB and pour some in? I've been wondering myself if the problem is fuel related, since the fuel pump does not turn on when I turn the key to ON, but it does when I'm turning the key all the way to START. I really need to get it back into the garage...Working on it outside in the wind and snow is horrible.
 
Fuel pump is suppose to do that^. It only primes when the key is in the running position before you crank it over.
 
Wow I always thought it primed right away when I turned the key. Maybe I was mistaken LOL. Thanks for the info though:thumb:

It will prime the first time you turn the key to the on position, but once it has been primed and the fuel is in the lines it's not going to keep trying to prime the line again.
 
well. . . every time i turn my key to the 'ON' positoin mine primes. you say that every time ## turn it over the marks are in a different spot??? sounds like a bad tensioner to me, what's what happeend we i first replaced my TB, everything lined up perfect, turned it over 3-4 times by hand and still lined up, stuck the tensioner on there, cranked it up and BLAH BLAH BLAH had to get a new tensioner and it runs like a champ now. yes to check if it is ## fuel just por a lil bit into your TB.
 
It will prime the first time you turn the key to the on position, but once it has been primed and the fuel is in the lines it's not going to keep trying to prime the line again.

Yeah that makes sense, thanks

well. . . every time i turn my key to the 'ON' positoin mine primes. you say that every time ## turn it over the marks are in a different spot??? sounds like a bad tensioner to me, what's what happeend we i first replaced my TB, everything lined up perfect, turned it over 3-4 times by hand and still lined up, stuck the tensioner on there, cranked it up and BLAH BLAH BLAH had to get a new tensioner and it runs like a champ now. yes to check if it is ## fuel just por a lil bit into your TB.

I didn't mean the timing marks are off or anything I meant that since the marks on the cam gears are moving that means the motor is turning over. I've turned the motor over a ton of times to try to get the timing marks on the gears to actually be visible through that little hole so I can see if they line up and they seem to, so either my crank is off somehow or there isn't a timing issue at all (hopefully the latter). Sorry if I confused anyone.
 
oh oh, ok, well yea try poring just a lil bit of fuel (obviously don't flood the thing) into the open throttlebody to see if it starts... if it does than you have a clog somewhere or you are due for a new fuel pump. you can check that but taking the fuel line off of the fuel rail (2 small bolts i think 8mm or phillips head) and priming the car... if you get pressure you know the blockage is between the fuel rail and the cylinder, if you don't get pressure it's either a bent line, clogged fuel filter, bad fpr, or bad fuel pump. keep us updated.
 
well. . . every time i turn my key to the 'ON' positoin mine primes. you say that every time ## turn it over the marks are in a different spot??? sounds like a bad tensioner to me, what's what happeend we i first replaced my TB, everything lined up perfect, turned it over 3-4 times by hand and still lined up, stuck the tensioner on there, cranked it up and BLAH BLAH BLAH had to get a new tensioner and it runs like a champ now. yes to check if it is ## fuel just por a lil bit into your TB.

Not trying to be a mod here, but I would really appreciate it if you could please work on your spelling and grammar. It makes it alot more difficult to read and understand when people have lots of mispelled words and run-on sentences.

I like your eagerness to help thats good, just please proof read your posts right before you submit.
 
wow, if this site is that picky about posts, than this isn't a site for me... i don't see the big deal, i type fast b/c i have a lot goin on it my every day life and try to help other ppl out as much as possible and that is y i have so many misspelled words. but if that is how this site is... than that is how this site is.
 
Adam, try my troubleshooting out, hope it helps... but i guess you are on your own from here out. Aparently ppl can't read when there's a misspelled word or no period between 2 words anymore... good luck man.
 
We appreciate your help here, and we don't expect your posts to be grammatically or otherwise perfect; just make an effort. That's all... just make an effort to make your posts understandable. We try not to nitpick, but the point of informational forums like these is to spread information efficiently; and that's difficult if someone's writing is very poor.
 
Hey man thanks a lot for your advice and everything, but don't get mad if they ask you to clean up your posts a little bit. It doesn't require much extra effort and it makes everything nicer for everybody else. You've been pretty helpful to me, and I'm sure you could be helpful to others, so don't let something little like that stop you from providing assistance to people that need it. :talon:
 
my bad guys, i'll make sure everything is spelled correctly from now on, or try to at least. but i'm not promising anything about the run-on sentences. i get to typin and my fingers take over. let me know how the fuel in the intake works out for you.
 
Hey it's cool man at least you're being a good sport about it and not all weinery like some people. And I'll definitely let you know how the fuel in the intake works out, whenever I actually get a chance to do that (hopefully soon).
 
Unfortunately I haven't had a chance yet. With the temperature being less than 0 degrees, plus a riciculously low wind chill, going outside officially blows, so I've tried to avoid being outside at all cost. I'm gonna have to get that car done soon though, as the transmission in the truck I've been driving randomly decided to spew transmission fluid everywhere and stop working. I'll let you all know what's going on with the car when I get a chance to work on it without the risk of my body freezing. :thumb:
 
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