Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

[NTRCOOL]

OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.


OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[bbray]

I am having the same problems as you. About a year ago I had my valve stem seals and all belts and pulleys replaced( including water pump and 180* t-stat). I also had my fmic installed at the same time but I still have the stock ducting. Ever since then I have had an overheating issue. I have been trying to fix it for a year now and whenever I am on the freeway I have to drive with my heater on high. I have replaced my radiator(mishimoto aluminum radiator), both fans, wired them to stay on all the time, new stock radiator cap, 80/20 water/coolant with one bottle of water wetter.

I am going to now buy another new T-stat and see if that works. And if it does not work then i guess i will buy a new water pump. I just really cant be driving my car in the 100*+ temps with my heater on high.

 

[ilikespeeding]

Let the car cool off over night. When it starts in the morning, squeeze the upper rad hose before it warms up, also wiggle the rad hoses to see if you can get any bubbles to come out. See if there's adaquate pressure. If none of the following are ####ed, I dont know what to tell you other than to pull the condensor.

Potential problems and fixes:
No air ducting:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/296545-radiator-plate.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/224201-how-i-lowered-my-coolant-temps-6-degrees.html

Themostat:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/156943-160-temp-thermostat.html

Low Coolant Pressure:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/169870-high-pressure-radiator-cap.html

Waterpump, Headgasket, Leaks,
replace with OEM part

Consider flushing your radiator.

 

[Drubble]

Check the coolant hoses going into your throttle body.

 

[voodoogsx]

There are a few hoses that attach to the throttle body that you might check, they can be a pain to get to. When I replaced mine, they were in pretty bad shape...

 

[jrprich]

There are a few hoses that attach to the throttle body that you might check, they can be a pain to get to. When I replaced mine, they were in pretty bad shape...

Should I pull the trottle body off to get to these hoses ?
Are they on the underside of the TB?


Crap, I hope this didn't warp the head

There are a few hoses that attach to the throttle body that you might check, they can be a pain to get to. When I replaced mine, they were in pretty bad shape...

OK, take a look at the pic below.......looks like a lot of water hoses and a pipe #12 back there.

Where would you guys look first ?

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Here is the TB pic, I only see one water line going in......circled

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[voodoogsx]

You may need to pull the TB off as it'll help to remove the hoses...getting in there to remove them while it's still attached can be tricky if they are stuck on the tb.. You may need to pull the cruise off as well as it can get in the way. The hose that you pointed out should be the correct one(plus the one next to it)...I'd check to see if it's wet around there....
If you can't find the leak, fill it up with coolant again, start it up for a minute....that should start to get the coolant going through the system....you should be able to see where the leak is coming from then....

 

[jrprich]

Thanks,

Will do..........but yesterday when it was spraying steam I couldn't locate the leak at all back there.
Never noticed just how many water hoses there are on the back side.........
Many look like you would need to pull the whole manifold off to change out many of the water lines

 

[voodoogsx]

There really aren't too many hoses, but they can be difficult to get to. The main thing is pulling off that elbow that goes to the TB. thats one of the biggest obstructions. The cruise control setup tends to get in the way as well. I pulled mine off as it didn't work anymore. It makes getting in the area quite easy.

since you've got a awd, it makes it slightly difficult to look form the bottom, but you could try that....see where the coolant was dripping from and following it up....

 

[jrprich]

The cruise control setup tends to get in the way as well. I pulled mine off as it didn't work anymore. It makes getting in the area quite easy.....

Any tips about removing the Cruise Control module off the firewall ?
I use mine all the time so I don't want to mess it up.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[voodoogsx]

There are a couple of bolts that hold it onto the firewall. You just need to take those out and move it out of the way.
You could try to just pull the battery and the upper intake hose first to see if you can see in the area if you are worried. you'll need a longer ratchet extension to get to the nuts and bolts on the TB.

To make things a little easier, the cruise control actuator could be removed instead of box attached to the firewall. This might be the easiest to do.
it's above the fusebox in this pic
virtual tour of a dsm engine - quadrant q1

 

[back2dsm]

I have the same problem. I'm not running a thermostat, I did a leakdown test, and the car can idle for days without overheating. Only when I start boosting does it push coolant out the overflow. I do have a cracked exhaust housing on my turbo, do you think that could be the problem?

 

[Maranello993]

For the vents look at this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...orest-bumper-mod-cooling-great-results-5.html

There is also a thread that has a guy with an $800 cooling system that keeps between 180* and 190* no matter what the ambient temperature is. Ill try to find a link to that.

Also, my setup does the same "heating up" thing on the highway but never heats up anywhere else. I'm going to try some of the things that I found in these threads.

 

[Defiant]

I have the same problem. I'm not running a thermostat, I did a leakdown test, and the car can idle for days without overheating. Only when I start boosting does it push coolant out the overflow. I do have a cracked exhaust housing on my turbo, do you think that could be the problem?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-8-7-no-no-no-no.html?highlight=thermostat+no

 

[kingjust]

After reading the OP these are the things that I came up with:

Clogged heating core (hence cooling off when heater is on, don't ask me to explain it)
T-Stat is gone... but wouldn't cause the reg. temps at idle.
Cavitation (air stuck in system)
Faulty water pump.

Honestly, it sounds like a combo of 3 of the 4 I have up. Check them all! The heating core... good luck, it's a PITA!

KJ

 

[90rexzc]

my fault. It was the headgasket

 

[johnmarines]

Well the fustration finally set in and I tore my car apart. I end up finding out that the machine shop that did my last rebuild did a shity job. They left the deck uneven, didnt seat the valves and left a groove from the oil passage to the water passage. I didnt even check the head when I picked it up from the shop because I thought it was done correctly. (big mistake) My uncle told me about a shop by corpus .. so the trip began. Left houston about 4 am and ended up at the machine shop about 8am. Left the machine shop about noon and headed home. I started installing it today but was tired from the trip. The head ,turbo,exhaust, timing and wiring is already complete. I have about about another 30 minutes till its ready to fire up. Here is a few pictures of the head being resurfaced and straightened. Sorry for the rough pictures , they were taken on my camera phone. Total cost of this rebuild..75.00 Not only did they pin point everything that the other shop did wronge but they explained to me why it needed to be done. This machine shop is far from houston but considering the quality of work with the price, its tough to beat.

 

[SpiralOut]

 

[bobby180360]

just goes to show cant trust all the "pros" thats why i'm taking a while to find the right shop for my rebuild. Fair price and EXCELLENT WORK!!! not to easy to find but well worth it in the end

 

[Gs Dewd]

I was going to post that your head gasket is at fault too. Glad you found your problem. I had the same problem with my car a couple yrs ago. And it was the head gasket. I didn't get any head work or block work done at the time just replaced the head gasket with a Felpro oem style gasket and all was good.

 

[jrprich]

Pulled the battery and throttle body off yesterday.......what a PITA to get access back there.

It appears that the coolant leak was a rupture in the coolant line to the TB as Drubble suggested. So I will replace as many hoses in the area as I can and test it again.

Also cleaned the TB, as best I could pretty nasty on the back side of the plate.
Also evidence of oil in the TB and the air hose feeding the TB.
The inside of the manifold is black.
Are these concerns as the Talon has 125,000 miles.

Found a couple of interesting things while poking around. Below the TB was a loose vacuum hose, actually split up the side that was connected to something looking like a old time distributors vacuum advance module.......that could explain my rough idle.

Also noted that at some time in the past some Mits mechanic snapped off the passenger side exhaust manifold stud leaving the broken stud with nut and washer still attached lying down below in a crevice. And likely the same mechanic did not even put a nut on the last drivers side exhaust manifold stud
The last time a mechanic touched this Talon was at about 64k to replace a water pump......no idea why someone would have messed with the exhaust manifold?

Thanks to all who posted suggestions

Jim

 

[neeland]

Ok guys i searched and read thru about 8 threads and cant find anything so im going to give this up for your expert advice. After my car sits for a few mins it starts to overheat. It used to only be when the a/c was on but now it is getting to be all the time. I replaced the thermostat a few months ago because i was having the same problem, but it was cool outside. Problem went away after that for several months but now it is back. New water pump about 10k ago. I just cranked it up in the drive way and let it run to see if i could find something and im still at a loss. The temp gauge goes up to just under hot. It happens quicker when the a/c is on obviously. One thing i did notice while it was sitting there running with the a/c on was that my 2nd fan doesnt kick on at all. Is there a relay for this or something i can check? I still have plenty of coolant in the overflow, and even when it gets to that hot reading it doesnt start boiling over or anything of the sort. Im at a loss. The temp gauge says its overheating but the car doesnt act like it at all. Sorry this was long winded but Im trying to explain as much as possible. Any other questions i can answer to help ill do my best. I think alot of it has to do with the fan not coming on but like i said its doing it without the a/c on as well. Granted it is like 100 degrees down here already but i know my car should be able to sit a red light or in a drive thru with out over heating. thanks in advance for any help

 

[neeland]

alright i have kept reading to about thread 15....could this be air in the system? what would be the best way to take care of this?

 

[redyute1]

the second fan has to come on with the ac soon as you turn that sucker on the fan should kick in dont know about the 2g's but the 1g' carry a relay for the fan next to the shock tower on the driver side its a little box with relays for the compressor and the fan yours definately has one just not sure about the location u can try connecting battery voltage to the fan to check if it is good good luck

 

[Bubbs Malone]

Try the Thermostat and radiator cap first. My problem was much worse, but you may be lucky.

Oh, I almost forgot, I agree, the second fan will come on when the AC is on. (no doubt here)

 

[neeland]

thermostat is replaced already...havent replaced the cap yet...any 2g guys know where the relay is for the 2nd fan? im going to take a look in my haynes manual in alil bit but thats still a 50/50 shot . I have overheating when the a/c isnt on as well. Could this be air in the system? and then when the a/c is on its the fan? some F'ed up combination of both?