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Car is bogging out at full throttle?

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BudmannG

15+ Year Contributor
129
1
Aug 7, 2004
Waverly, Illinois
I am at wits end guys, I don't know what to try next. I have a 4g63 w/cyclone intake, and stock freebie mods. Except for the 3" exhaust. Everytime i put my foot to the floor it feels like I've got a hundred mph head wind. But if I back out to about 1/2 or 3/4 it takes off like I have NOS. I don't understand this at all.



Next is on a cold start it will idle just fine. But as soon as it starts to free roll I get a high rev and it like a rev limiter kicks in up and down, Until I bring the car to a complete stop. Now my Q. is, I have two ABS wheel sensors that are bad one front one back, could this be the reason for the high revs in the morning on cold starts? :confused: :cry:
 
Was the car fully warmed up, battery fully charged and full throttle applied during cracking? Do you have access to another known good tester so you can double check?
 
yes the car was warm and battery charged. I had to run to the bank so I drove it about an hour.

No, I don't have access to another tester. What can I say for AutoZone.

Why is this a bad compression test? I also got my Insulators changed $1.69 at Mitsu.
Runs alot better but I didn't run it hard either (boost 6). Ialso bought a boost gauge but I don't know where to hook into my intake at.
 
BudmannG said:
Why is this a bad compression test?
Because 165 is where 1G should be and the service limit is 121 with no more than 14psi difference between cylinders. Assuming the tester is good and the compression test was done correctly, a leakdown test will tell where the problem is. Dou

No, I don't have access to another tester. What can I say for AutoZone.
Whenever you get consistent low numbers across the board, it's always a good idea to double check the result with a second tester. buy another one and return it after. :)

I also got my Insulators changed $1.69 at Mitsu. Runs alot better but I didn't run it hard either (boost 6)
You are no where near the completion of the leak test so make sure you revisit it. Think about the difference a couple of injector seals made, imagine if the system is leak free. OMG

Ialso bought a boost gauge but I don't know where to hook into my intake at.
Good job. Boost gauge installation.
 
Here is what I found today to make my car sit. I did another pressure test and found more leaks. My EGR is leaking like a sive, and my throttle body is leaking also. I plugged the line that goes to the PCV and part of the hissing stopped. Does this mean my PCV is bad (stuck open)? I held 12 psi when I started today, And just unhooking the vacum from the EGR, And plugging the line, I got 15psi now. I have to wait and get the throttle body gaskets, and a block off plate to come in.

I am learning that with these cars you can't just make your own gaskets out of cereal boxes anymore, LOL. As soon as I get these parts I will fill you in more, Thanx. :talon:

Sorry that it takes me so long to post my replies but I have minimal time to work on this thing, But I am very pleased with the 3psi I had gained today.


Bud
 
Ok, I got the gaskets ordered through mitsubishi (around $15.00). I went ahead and ordered a new Idle screw, Fast Idle gasket and throttle plate gaskets. I also bought a MBC to put on my car. And I am still waiting to here from the guy with the block off plate.

The parts from Mitsu won't be in until thurs.. And I am leaving for vacation on thurs. so it will be at least two weeks before I can do anything to it. So when I get back I will install everything I got and run the test again. I will post again when I do this, Talk to ya in two weeks.


Bud :talon:
 
O.K. This is where I'm at. I put it all back together and still have leaks, and I can't adjust the idle down. The BISS is all the way down and is new with a new o-ring. My leaks are on the or in the throttle body, the shaft that runs through it. And the IAC is a leak, gasket is new as is the IAC. Also I am leaking air from the TPS. Do I need a new throttle body? :talon:
 
I am testing with 20 psi and I am idling around 800-900 :talon:
 
I must be the biggest dumnash around. I went and bought a EGR block off plate. Can't use it I am running a cyclone intake the EGR is built into the intake. So I Found a clip and am now running the EGR wide open. Is this ok? :talon:
 
I finally got to hold 20 PSI w/o leaks off of the intake. When I tested from the turbo I held 12 PSI. I found a pin hole in my innercooler. Can a ic be repaired? Or do I have to buy one? :talon:


By the way I am still running stock IC.
 
I was so happy to see that 20 off the intake, I had to do a lil dance in my drive. I will check on that tomrrow. And Oldman thanks for your help on everything. I couldn't ever adjust the idle so I left it were it was running 800 - 850. I had both wires grounded and no change in the idle at all. So that is why I left it.
 
You're welcome. Was the EGR leaking like we suspected? If so, how did you resolve that? Good job BTW.
 
I have left off the vacume lines. And it does nothing now. I am going to try to take it off tomorrow or next day. :talon:
 
Ok, here is what I found wrong with my car and fixed after numerous boost leak test.
Injector seals and insulators
gaskets on throttle body
throttle body shaft seals
smic had two pin holes in it
PCV valve


Now that I have done that and also figured out that I don't have an EGR. I did some research and found out that it operates butterfly flappers in my intake. And I am now in the process of getting a vacuum reserve tank. So I can't use this the way it is designed to be used.


I have another Q. when I let off the gas in a deceleration situation it wants to lung forward every once in a while. Like it gets a gasp of air and wants to take off. And if I am sitting still and rev the motor up to about 5000 rpm, the idle will fall below 500 rpmI hav enoticed that my exhaust manifold is loose on one side, could this be the reason it is doing this? Thanks!

:talon: Bud
 
I went out and tried to tighten the nut that was loose on my exhaust manifold, And it broke. After inspecting the stud that came out with the nut. I found that it was broke already, I just helped it the rest of the way. So now I'm in the process of getting it removed and replaced. :talon:
 
Ok, I guess his thread can be closed. I found my boost problems and fixed them as I listed above. Oldman you were a great help, and the whole remedy on boost loss is boost leak test until it will hold 20 PSI for at least 30 sec. All in all it cost me about $50.00 to fix my boost leak. :talon:
 
BudmannG said:
Ok, I guess his thread can be closed. I found my boost problems and fixed them as I listed above. Oldman you were a great help, and the whole remedy on boost loss is boost leak test until it will hold 20 PSI for at least 30 sec. All in all it cost me about $50.00 to fix my boost leak. :talon:
I'm glade you got it resolved, sorry I had fell off the face of the earth last couple of weeks due to personal and work issues. So your initial boost problem is fixed? :thumb:
 
Yeah all the boost leaks are fixed. And I am on to the next problem " Busted Exhaust Manifold Bolt/Stud" :talon:
 
BudmannG said:
Yeah all the boost leaks are fixed. And I am on to the next problem " Busted Exhaust Manifold Bolt/Stud" :talon:
How is it busted? Inside or outside the head? Is it stripped and took out the aluminum threads?
 
Busted inside the head. My sisters boyfriend is repairing it for a old head that I had sitting around. Supposed to be done tomorrow. Will that cause the car to jump on deceleration? It's almost like a boost of air and it launches the car forward. :talon:
 
BudmannG said:
Busted inside the head. My sisters boyfriend is repairing it for a old head that I had sitting around. Supposed to be done tomorrow. Will that cause the car to jump on deceleration? It's almost like a boost of air and it launches the car forward. :talon:
I don't thinks so, I'm having problem visualizing this "launches forward" problem.
 
OK, I'll try to explain a little better. If you were just coming of the highway and let your foot off the gas and just let it decelerate to the proper speed limit. It likes to jump forward as in it gets a gush of fuel or something. It happens everytime I decelerate in any gear. Unless I hold a even pedal on it, you know to stop the gurgle in the exhaust. I hope this helped. :talon:
 
BudmannG said:
OK, I'll try to explain a little better. If you were just coming of the highway and let your foot off the gas and just let it decelerate to the proper speed limit. It likes to jump forward as in it gets a gush of fuel or something. It happens everytime I decelerate in any gear. Unless I hold a even pedal on it, you know to stop the gurgle in the exhaust. I hope this helped. :talon:
You got me on that one, hopefully someone else will chip in.
 
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