Car dies

[Dsm304]

Ok I have a 95 eagle talon tsi and ive put lots to it and have had one problem I still cant figure out. When my car is running it sometimes shuts off as in the engine everything else elictrical stays on and check engine light comes on will crank it and cranks perfect but wount start so I will disconnect the battery for about 3min and connect back and car turns on like a champ will run fine for a while then shuts off again sometimes it wount and gauges start to go crazy and the car vack fires and check engine light goes on then will go off and car is normal again :/ now I dont really know but could this be the ignition coil pack, alarm sistem????

 

[Kait]

Could be your alternator, too...

 

[2GCruiser]

I've heard these could be symptoms of a fuel pump going out . I would research into that

 

[Dsm304]

My safcII reads a good charging at 14.2v but if so how could I check if its bad???

I will try to search about fuel pumps going bad if I can find a thred or something

 

[boosting88]

When you pull the battery terminal off and recrank the car it turns on? When you start driving it after it turns off and you drive when you come to a stop is the idle really slow then creeps back to normal slowly? If thats the case take the battery terminal off, crank it so it starts and let it idle for about 15-20 minutes without moving it.

 

[eatsleepboostin]

If alternater was bad your battery be drain and you will end up not cranking the car anymore. I would start out by checking the engine check light to see what code it has. Then go from there. There's just too many possible causes. Check engine light is on for a reason.

 

[Speedemon636]

I've heard that not recirculating the BOV could cause that. Usually it happens when coming to a stop though.

My alternator fuse was blown for awhile, but I could still drive the car and it wouldn't die. All the lights were just really dim. So I doubt it's your alt.

 

[Dsm304]

When you pull the battery terminal off and recrank the car it turns on? When you start driving it after it turns off and you drive when you come to a stop is the idle really slow then creeps back to normal slowly? If thats the case take the battery terminal off, crank it so it starts and let it idle for about 15-20 minutes without moving it.

No I will pull the terminal off and leave it resting for about 3min and reconnect it back and I will turn on back like a champ. My idle right now on my dash is at 1100 but my safcII says its from 1200 to 1300 and sometimes go to 980 :/ its weird

If alternater was bad your battery be drain and you will end up not cranking the car anymore. I would start out by checking the engine check light to see what code it has. Then go from there. There's just too many possible causes. Check engine light is on for a reason.

Yeah ummm could I still check it even tough the light is off?? Because I know I have to have the car on so the obd2 scanned can check for codes and my car doesent turn on if the light is on only when the light is off my car starts

I've heard that not recirculating the BOV could cause that. Usually it happens when coming to a stop though.

My alternator fuse was blown for awhile, but I could still drive the car and it wouldn't die. All the lights were just really dim. So I doubt it's your alt.

Yeah my BOV is recirculated and my lights are bright just normal no dim.

 

[ChrisMgst]

get that alternator checked out

 

[Dsm304]

I just realized that when the engine light comes on theres a ticking sound where the ecu is at and in the engine bay in the firewall then check engine light goes off by its self sometimes.

 

[DeadlyScone]

I just realized that when the engine light comes on theres a ticking sound where the ecu is at and in the engine bay in the firewall then check engine light goes off by its self sometimes.

so does it just turn off as if you were driving and you turn the key off...

OR

does it kind of studder then die?

 

[Dsm304]

so does it just turn off as if you were driving and you turn the key off...

OR

does it kind of studder then die?

Yeah just the check engine light like everything electrical stays on and the engine will shut down comepletely when light comes on and sometimes the engine wount turn off and studder and back fire and ticking noise comes from ecu location and firewall and gauges go all crazy for about a minute or less and goes back to normal and light will go off im verry lost of what it could be and pretty mad haha

Ok well since I cant keep my car on when light is on I was thinking is there a check engine light history? Like if it turns on then turns off will the code still be there??? Even tough the light is off??? If so I will be taking my car to auto zone to connect an obd2 scanner and see what codes I get and keep you guys updated

Oh buddy well just got bak from advance auto parts because their the only one that is trustly with ppl borrowing their obd2 scanner not like auto zone :/ anyways I got 9 codes and here they are

P1500
Manf cntrl veh. Spd
Idle speed control
Auxilary inputs

P0304
Cylinder 4 misfire
Detected

P0130
O2 sensor circuit
Malfunction (bank 1 sensor1)

P0136
O2 sensor circuit
Malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2)

P0141
O2 sensor heater
Circuit malfunction
(bank 1 sensor 2)

P0115
Engine coolant temp
Circuit malfunction

P1400
Manufacturer contrl
Auxilary emission
Controls

P0443
Evap emission
control system purge
Valve c fault

P0505
Idle control system
Malfunction

Now as foe the isc that is new I replaced it about a month ago :/ and for most of them I was thinking could my safc2 be causing all this??? I havent messed with it much because I dont know on what percentages it should be it maybe that it is allowing too much air in so the engine shuts off???? Help please!!!!!!

 

[Dsm304]

I might just cut the safc2 tomorrow If I still dont get how to tune it right :/

 

[stars]

I know your problem all to well I have had a customers vehicle do that same thing one one test drive for the same problems you are having. It scared the hell out of me on the test drive to verify the complaint but shortly in the drive I had no control and the sudden the power loss occurred. I sat there for a few mins and it started right up with no problems and it ran fine back to the shop. By then it was my job to find the problem....lucky me...this was back in 98 the car came in one day as I remember that far back and the car was a 95 DSM model.

It took me the entire day to figure out what the problem was. What I found out was wrong is 4 hardware bolts that were mounted to the wrong place and into the wrong area. There are 4 bolts holding ecu on its mount I think again if I can recall. One of the 4 who knows was just barely touching the ecu controller board internally and when the car hit a large bump or sudden stop of some kind, was just enough to momentarily contact the back of the circuit board, shorting to one of 4 bolts thus rendering some circuits useless as in half of systems work normally and the other half have shut off completely.

Hearing clicks inside means something too. That maybe an a car alarm or something like that may be causing a problem so would disable any of that mess before your replace anything else. Everything everyone has suggested are things that are also too often over looked, so cover as much as you can and eventually you will find the source of your problem.

 

[Dsm304]

I know your problem all to well I have had a customers vehicle do that same thing one one test drive for the same problems you are having. It scared the hell out of me on the test drive to verify the complaint but shortly in the drive I had no control and the sudden the power loss occurred. I sat there for a few mins and it started right up with no problems and it ran fine back to the shop. By then it was my job to find the problem....lucky me...this was back in 98 the car came in one day as I remember that far back and the car was a 95 DSM model.

It took me the entire day to figure out what the problem was. What I found out was wrong is 4 hardware bolts that were mounted to the wrong place and into the wrong area. There are 4 bolts holding ecu on its mount I think again if I can recall. One of the 4 who knows was just barely touching the ecu controller board internally and when the car hit a large bump or sudden stop of some kind, was just enough to momentarily contact the back of the circuit board, shorting to one of 4 bolts thus rendering some circuits useless as in half of systems work normally and the other half have shut off completely.

Hearing clicks inside means something too. That maybe an a car alarm or something like that may be causing a problem so would disable any of that mess before your replace anything else. Everything everyone has suggested are things that are also too often over looked, so cover as much as you can and eventually you will find the source of your problem.

Wow you have good memory I will be checking into my ecu today hopefuly its just this same problem with the bolt.

Also I dont know much about alarms so my question is can I just unplug it or cut it off????
I just dont know if I should I was thinking if I do that it may lock up or something??? If it wount then ill take it off today also I dont even use it anyways haha and thanks for the help

:/ just finished checking my ecu and the cam sensor their good and opened my aem wide band gauge to find that there was a brown black spot in the thing wich im guessing it was burned since it never turn on.

Now my plan is that im just gonna cut tge alarm sistem off and the safc2!!! Since right now those 2 can be the problem causing all this if its not that then I dony know what im gonna do.

 

[stars]

Car alarms just try to connect all the wires back to their source if u can. I don't know your wiring sorry but it can be quite complex even for the most experienced installer. I would simply try a way to bypass it just unplug because it may not be the problem but it helps to rule out what it is not vs what it is. And if you can unplug it you can easily install it later if it is not the problem.

I call it backwards diagnosis. Basically invented by me for troubleshooting complex electrical problems in cars and computers. I took a page out of a computer repair manual that I had come across one day in college. Basically if your computer at home will not want to boot up then start unplugging everything one by one. Eventually you will get to the source of the problem, I guarantee it. I figured out that day that it would be a handy idea to do that to cars that exhibit such problems as computers do from time to time.

Try that alarm first then can go from there. Its hard to figure out someones problem from far away. I'm just giving you my opinion as if it was me working on the vehicle with that particular problem you have. I have a few years working on cars if I can recall huhmmm this is now, year #19 as a mechanic. I have lost count as of now, I just remember particular problems and what it was. I also have 14 years in computer repair... that's gravy work any day. So your problem you see can be either a computer problem or technical problem.

Either way sites like this are here for a reason, where to find where the problem in the end is up to you. Free your mind and your ass will follow. Good Luck, I know your close. Do a wiggle test whilst its running.

 

[Sebba]

Check your CAS wiring too.

 

[Dsm304]

Car alarms just try to connect all the wires back to their source if u can. I don't know your wiring sorry but it can be quite complex even for the most experienced installer. I would simply try a way to bypass it just unplug because it may not be the problem but it helps to rule out what it is not vs what it is. And if you can unplug it you can easily install it later if it is not the problem.

I call it backwards diagnosis. Basically invented by me for troubleshooting complex electrical problems in cars and computers. I took a page out of a computer repair manual that I had come across one day in college. Basically if your computer at home will not want to boot up then start unplugging everything one by one. Eventually you will get to the source of the problem, I guarantee it. I figured out that day that it would be a handy idea to do that to cars that exhibit such problems as computers do from time to time.

I think im leaving the larm removal to d-tronics but I already took the apexi s-safc 2 out haha.

Hmmmm removing plugs and all the wires I think ill get lost :/ haha I had to number the cables I removed from the computer that the safc2 was connecting just in case I cannot upgrade to dsmlink and selling the safc but if I have to do it to fix the problem then I guess I will have to wich I hope I dont

Check your CAS wiring too.

My engine doesent hace a CAS sensor

 

[Sebba]

Oops my bad, didn't see you were 2g.

 

[Dsm304]

Oops my bad, didn't see you were 2g.

Lol its cool it happens

 

[Dsm304]

Anyone have any ideas what this problem could be im checking my fuel pump tomorrow and waiting to get some money to pay for the alarm removal but any other ideas could be helpful thanks guys!!!

I was wondering where could I find the fuel pump relay on my 95 eagle talon tsi??? I wanna check them with a dvom

 

[stars]

Unless you have something tested and post the results your just wanting people to speculate. No problems are alike so each scenario differs. It's almost like palm reading...I can guess what it is all day long if you'd like. But, that's not going to get your car fixed quickly is it? I would go back over your fuse block and check from there. Check your fluids, wire connectors, check grounds. Just do a thourough visual inspection. Without a scan tool it's pretty much a shot at the moon. Any family members mechanics or neighbors? If you have owners manual, in there you can find the location of the relays under the index in back "labeled" fuses. It will show you a diagram of your power distribution system that's what they call that box (PDS). Check each fuse for power and replace any blown ones you find. Swap out relays, often time relays will interchange so do a parts swap. Look for fuse panels inside and out. There there, you got to hunt. You need some reference material. What tools do you have so far to troubleshoot, please list them.

 

[psx]

Check your cam sensors, on the 420a the vss is what controls cam sensors and crank. I had the same issue, it turned out to be the vss had a short and would randomly cut my sensors out, the car would turn off.

 

[josh1095]

had the same problem in my old gs. god it pissed me off. i found the ghetto alarm behind the radio, disconnected it and never had a problem again. i had no idea it had an alarm so i didnt know to look for something like that.
this new gst i got has a viper alarm that is wired in much more complexly. i pray that thing doesnt cause problems.

 

[talon1990TSi]

So did you figure out what the CEL was. What did your ob2 scanner say? Also you might not have a CAS sensor but you do have a CPS sensor.