Cannot find boost leak

[91Bomb]

Ok I'm having a hard time finding this boost leak. Test from turbo inlet through I/C is good so I started testing from TB elbow and found shaft seal + BISS leaks.

Rebuilt TB myself with new seals + gaskets and don't hear any TB problems now BUT can only build like 2-4 lbs while testing at elbow with throttle plate open and can't hear or see leaks anywhere even using soapy water


I'm using a portable air compressor for filling tires and it's fairly powerful but not sure if I should get an air tank so the peressure rushes in faster AND so it will be more quiet to listen for leaks but not sure if that's needed..


Anyhow BL tester is good and this is really getting to be a major PITA

 

[dsmtnr]

Whats your timing set too??

 

[4Lurker4]

Did you check the injector seals and connections between the intake manifold anything that builds vacuum? Soapy water will help tons, that way you can look for bubbles when it's done building up pressure.

 

[LiquidX]

Pinch off the PCV hose and listen out the tail pipe. If your valves are open you won't build any pressure. Pinching the PCV hose just removes the possibility of a bad PCV.

 

[91Bomb]

Whats your timing set too??

I didn't check timing for boost test but timing looks good on logger when idling and when driving can only make a few lbs boost before car stutters from boost leak.

Did you check the injector seals and connections between the intake manifold anything that builds vacuum? Soapy water will help tons, that way you can look for bubbles when it's done building up pressure.

Used soapy water and seen nothing..

Pinch off the PCV hose and listen out the tail pipe. If your valves are open you won't build any pressure. Pinching the PCV hose just removes the possibility of a bad PCV.

I can only boost a few lbs when driving too..

 

[agentorange313]

could there be something wrong with the wastegate actuator?

 

[LiquidX]

Ignition timing is much different than mechanical timing.

Logger will show ignition timing which is how much advanced or retarded the spark is going off in the combustion chamber in comparision to the pistion position. Mechanical timing is having the crank, cams, oil pump and balance shaft lined up properly at TDC. If that's off a tooth you can be having open valves when your spark is going.

You are being asked to check your mechanical timing to line up all the marks for TDC to verify that everything is lined up as it should be and your belt didn't jump a tooth or two. It can take up to 6 full revolutions of the crank to have all components line up (done by hand).

Listening out of the tail pipe when testing will let you know if you have open valves when testing.

 

[91Bomb]

How do you know when timing is lined up and can you get a socket on the crank without pulling a tire off? I want to check that timing hasn't jumped a tooth.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

How do you know when timing is lined up and can you get a socket on the crank without pulling a tire off? I want to check that timing hasn't jumped a tooth.

You don't even need a socket, just a 1/2" drive ratchet and yes, you can get to it without removing the tire. To check your mechanical timing, first you want to make sure that all the marks line up. Turn your crank clockwise until all the timing marks line up and your engine is a TDC.

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There are pictures of all the timing marks in this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/273973-pictorial-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html

If they are all lined up you can check your base ignition timing with a timing light to verify that you are running at 5* BTDC. Here is the VFAQ on how to do it: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/engine/timing.html

 

[dsmtnr]

your motor needs to be set to 30 or 40 degrees BTDC. that way all your valves will be closed and you wont loose your testing pressure.

 

[91Bomb]

Actually if timing was off 1 tooth wouldn't the car idle or run a little off? Because my engine runs super smooth..