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Can Ya Help A Girl Out...Vol.9

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wreckshop56

15+ Year Contributor
132
0
Aug 14, 2003
Hey guys

just got the rebuilt head done...2 problems check engine like...vacum leak from exaust manifold the guy said..what is that?....and the other big problem is...when shifting around 3000 or 4000 n higher rpms i head a rattle noise as i accelerate if i change gears like around 2500 i dont hear nothing..im scared to take her on the freeway without something falling off

can ya help me out again ;)
 
wreckshop56 said:
Hey guys

just got the rebuilt head done...2 problems check engine like...vacum leak from exaust manifold the guy said..what is that?....and the other big problem is...when shifting around 3000 or 4000 n higher rpms i head a rattle noise as i accelerate if i change gears like around 2500 i dont hear nothing..im scared to take her on the freeway without something falling off

can ya help me out again ;)

Vacuum leak from exhaust manifold? Your car is n/t thou, you have headers. I don't think a check engine light will come up because of that even if such thing existed.
 
well the guy tap on the heat sheild n said it might be your exaust manifold so maybe he meant headers...if i have a leak there will it throw a code and cause performance problems
 
wreckshop56 said:
well the guy tap on the heat sheild n said it might be your exaust manifold so maybe he meant headers...if i have a leak there will it throw a code and cause performance problems

I think it would be the best if you could take the car to the shop or autozone so they can read the CEL code that causes the CHECK ENGINE light to come up.
I don't know how he concluded from tapping the heatshield that you have a leak there.
 
SkyLineGtR-R34 said:
I think it would be the best if you could take the car to the shop or autozone so they can read the CEL code that causes the CHECK ENGINE light to come up.
I don't know how he concluded from tapping the heatshield that you have a leak there.

welll he checked the vacum hoses first then he said it could be a exaust mainfold/header leak
 
Unless it's leaking around the O2 sensor..., but still I don't think the check engine light would come up

Try reseting the ECU and see if it will come up again. Take the possitive connector off from the battery terminal and leave it off for about 10 min.
 
SkyLineGtR-R34 said:
Unless it's leaking around the O2 sensor..., but still I don't think the check engine light would come up

Try reseting the ECU and see if it will come up again. Take the possitive connector off from the battery terminal and leave it off for about 10 min.


no its not the o2 sensor i had that checked last time because i thought thats y it was throwing a code...ill goto autozone 2morra and find out...n come back with the results...thanks...and theories about the other problem im having?
 
Sorry, I forgot about the other question. I'm not sure what could it be, so I'm not gonna confuse you with all the possibilities. :dsm:
 
I seriously doubt any type of exhaust leaks, would throw a cel.

I had a 92 NT, back in the day, and the poor bastard near had the header rusted clear through, holes all over the place, NO cel. unless your 02 sensor is blown apart and its leaking out the hole ;)

vacuum line leak causing cel? not too sure if it would.

like stated above, get the code.
 
who took the head off and put it back on?I dont know if 420's have balance shafts or not but if they do then thats wear I would put my money....your balance shaft is out of time.is it a rattle or a bad vibration?A vacuum leak means that you are sucking unmetered air from somewhere which makes the motor run lean so the ecu throws more fuel to the engine to correct the problem.the mafs is telling the ecu that the motor is getting the right amount of air flow and o2 is telling the ecu that is does not have enough air so the ecu throws a check engine lite because the ecu is confused....that is the theory of a vacuum leak in a nut shell.hope this helps you...trying to help a girl out.:thumb:
 
I had the same problem with my old 420a but the n/a dosen't have balance shafs and i had a real bad idle and my rattle was coming from my tranny so i just decited to part out the car and i seariouly don't think a leak on the header would make the cell come on.
 
i never knew that headers have vaccum lines on them NEWS TO ME. Maybe he was a tweeked out mechanic and it probably meant the intake mani.
 
Just because it's a n/t, doesn't mean she doesn't have an exhaust manifold...it's just not a "turbo manifold" :toobad:

Although these nice guys were trying to help...let the experts take this one for ya ;)


Who knows what this guy is talking about...an exhaust leak or a vacuum leak. Do yourself a favor and do the keydance, then tell us what codes you really have :thumb:

EDIT: forgot to actually include the link :rolleyes:
http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=8
 
ok i just got off of work so im back on the fourm thank for all the responses....
with the rattle situation...its not really a vibration becuase i dont feel it i just hear it in high revs also (THIS JUST COMING IN) LOL my oil light is flashing when i give it gas it goes away...im not low on oil either..could just be the sensor or something serious?

i might just sell the damn car and let it be someone elses problem but i love my damn car.
codes will come later today
 
The keydance is a good suggestion, although someone fairly new to cars might have a hard time distinguishing 2 separate codes using that process. (it takes some getting used to the period of time between the two)

The oil light flickering is 99% of the time caused by a faulty switch. The switch is located on the back of the block. If you're laying underneath looking up it's on the far left. It's the longest one(there is one in the middle that looks similar, but the plastic piece is much shorter). Again, this is usually just caused by the switch failing, which you basically don't need because it will tell you there's no oil, after there is no oil. If you want to replace it however, I've got a good one I could get to you for a small fee, just PM me.

As for the codes, I would recommend going to autozone if one is pretty close to you. If not, do some reading on the Keydance and give it a shot. Heck, it's free too, so might as well just give it a shot anyways.
 
when all of yalls nt's were stock no intake nothing did it have good pull...like good perfomance for a stock car...the reason y i ask this is because my spyder was stock and the pull/performance was wayyyyy better then this car i have now..the spyder wasnt turbo either
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
The keydance is a good suggestion, although someone fairly new to cars might have a hard time distinguishing 2 separate codes using that process. (it takes some getting used to the period of time between the two)

The oil light flickering is 99% of the time caused by a faulty switch. The switch is located on the back of the block. If you're laying underneath looking up it's on the far left. It's the longest one(there is one in the middle that looks similar, but the plastic piece is much shorter). Again, this is usually just caused by the switch failing, which you basically don't need because it will tell you there's no oil, after there is no oil. If you want to replace it however, I've got a good one I could get to you for a small fee, just PM me.

As for the codes, I would recommend going to autozone if one is pretty close to you. If not, do some reading on the Keydance and give it a shot. Heck, it's free too, so might as well just give it a shot anyways.


humble texas...well someone finally that stays close LOL well not close but in the state
 
wreckshop56 said:
when all of yalls nt's were stock no intake nothing did it have good pull...like good perfomance for a stock car...the reason y i ask this is because my spyder was stock and the pull/performance was wayyyyy better then this car i have now..the spyder wasnt turbo either

Different cars have different power. Though the same model car should have roughly the same amount. However, your spyder had 141 hp, compared to the 140 for the coupe. One horsepower isn't much of a difference at all, in fact you shouldn't notice a difference in the two, but I'm assuming your spyder wasn't throwing any codes. Which your car right now is. That said, your car currently will not be running up to par, so the spyder should have felt more powerful than your car does right now. Just give it patience, get these problems fixed and you're good to go.


wreckshop56 said:
humble texas...well someone finally that stays close LOL well not close but in the state

Where are you located?
 
DSMcrazy3 said:
Different cars have different power. Though the same model car should have roughly the same amount. However, your spyder had 141 hp, compared to the 140 for the coupe. One horsepower isn't much of a difference at all, in fact you shouldn't notice a difference in the two, but I'm assuming your spyder wasn't throwing any codes. Which your car right now is. That said, your car currently will not be running up to par, so the spyder should have felt more powerful than your car does right now. Just give it patience, get these problems fixed and you're good to go.




Where are you located?

houston texas

i know the problems will be fixed but i just spent 1200 on a rebuilt head and i was hoping to just get in my car and worry about nothing for atleast a couple of months...would any of these problems im having relate to the cylinder head because if it does then its under warranty
 
It's very possible, however, there are many things that are tampered with durning head removal/installation. So for us to point you in any direction, is basically impossible. Like I said, get the codes read and we can help you furthermore :thumb:
 
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