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Cam's

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BlackMount

10+ Year Contributor
803
2
Jan 20, 2010
Monroe, Wisconsin
I'm interested in buying some Cam's for my Laser RS Turbo, but I don't know much about them. The last 1-2 Hour(s) I have been reading and searching (mostly reading) on stuff about cams, and anything that can help me choose which ones to get.

my current Set up

Stock Head (but fully rebuilt by machine shop)
Stock Block
Stock 14B Turbo w\ MBC set at 16 PSI
Magnaflow Exhaust 2.5 inch
Tubular Manifold (unsure of brand, Probably Ebay. It is not Stainless Steel)
K&N Intake
Stock SMIC
Ported Throttle Body
Upgraded Oil Cooler
NKG Plugs + Wires
Walbro 255 Lph Fuel Pump
Stock Injectors

Little bit bout my DSM. it's my DD, but at the same time I take it out on the track, and race it, and just have fun with it.

I want cams, but I don't want to destroy my engine or lose power from putting the complete wrong grind in my head. I was just figuring going with the common BC 272's. I don't want a 8000-9000 RPM red line (I shift at 6200-6700 because that's when I notice my power just fading away). I prefer something where I wont have to up my Valves + Valve Springs and what not. If I have to do that I'm gonna wait until I get a hold of a spare head and ill build it out completely. I also want to know if there is anything you'd recommend up-ing first besides Valve's and Springs, like upgrading to a 3 inch Exhaust

Should I even be thinking about cams right now with my current set up for a extra umph? or is there other upgrades you would recommend doing first?

Thanks for help in advance.
 
A nice set of (264 / 264) or 264 / 272 combo would do you good, if you don't plan on turning up the boost to much more, stick with the 264 / 264 combo...

Thanks +1

I plan on keeping the boost at 16 for now because I haven't had the car for super long so I am still learning it, how it drives, how it acts, how it reacts to this, how it reacts to that, oversteer here, understeer there, etc. (something important I think when owning a car that's more then just a way from A to B). I wont turn it up past 20 PSI because I'm not sure how much higher the motor will take, and this is my DD so I don't want to destroy my motor.

I might go for 17 or 18 psi in a few weeks here
 
I'm interested in buying some Cam's for my Laser RS Turbo, but I don't know much about them. The last 1-2 Hour(s) I have been reading and searching (mostly reading) on stuff about cams, and anything that can help me choose which ones to get.

my current Set up

Stock Head (but fully rebuilt by machine shop)
Stock Block
Stock 14B Turbo w\ MBC set at 16 PSI
Magnaflow Exhaust 2.5 inch
Tubular Manifold (unsure of brand, Probably Ebay. It is not Stainless Steel)
K&N Intake
Stock SMIC
Ported Throttle Body
Upgraded Oil Cooler
NKG Plugs + Wires
Walbro 255 Lph Fuel Pump
Stock Injectors

Little bit bout my DSM. it's my DD, but at the same time I take it out on the track, and race it, and just have fun with it.

I want cams, but I don't want to destroy my engine or lose power from putting the complete wrong grind in my head. I was just figuring going with the common BC 272's. I don't want a 8000-9000 RPM red line (I shift at 6200-6700 because that's when I notice my power just fading away). I prefer something where I wont have to up my Valves + Valve Springs and what not. If I have to do that I'm gonna wait until I get a hold of a spare head and ill build it out completely. I also want to know if there is anything you'd recommend up-ing first besides Valve's and Springs, like upgrading to a 3 inch Exhaust

Should I even be thinking about cams right now with my current set up for a extra umph? or is there other upgrades you would recommend doing first?

Thanks for help in advance.

for parts before your cams i would recommend investing in an exhaust system, a wideband o2 sensor (not a narrowband, a wideband like a AEM UEGO) and also getting some logging software (dsmlinkv3 or linklite) after these uprgrades get some bigger fuel injectors, evo VIII or IX injectors are budget friendly and do the job unless your going 400+ hp.
now your to the point where you can put some cams in to free up some top end power... i suggest NOT running any brian crower (BC) cams because ive heard nothing but bad things about them on these forums and from local DSM'rs that run them. hks 272's are a good cam but for the same price and IMO a little better performance get some FP2's. they drop right in and with a little tuning can get you some good power to the wheels in the top of your powerband.
your cars got to crawl before it can walk... im not saying you can't put cams in now and put down more hp but you won't see much until you can tune it.

:dsm:
 
for parts before your cams i would recommend investing in an exhaust system, a wideband o2 sensor (not a narrowband, a wideband like a AEM UEGO) and also getting some logging software (dsmlinkv3 or linklite) after these uprgrades get some bigger fuel injectors, evo VIII or IX injectors are budget friendly and do the job unless your going 400+ hp.
now your to the point where you can put some cams in to free up some top end power... i suggest NOT running any brian crower (BC) cams because ive heard nothing but bad things about them on these forums and from local DSM'rs that run them. hks 272's are a good cam but for the same price and IMO a little better performance get some FP2's. they drop right in and with a little tuning can get you some good power to the wheels in the top of your powerband.
your cars got to crawl before it can walk... im not saying you can't put cams in now and put down more hp but you won't see much until you can tune it.

:dsm:

Makes lots of sense. Thank you very much you answered my question(s) perfectly
 
Makes lots of sense. Thank you very much you answered my question(s) perfectly

one more thing. i noticed your asking about a 1g... i see you've got a K&N intake, is that a filter or INTAKE? i ask because the 1g MAS is very restrictive so id say the first you invest in (before the exhaust) would be a 2g intake and 2g MAS... you can get a 2g MAS from $20 to $50 depending on who you get it from and an intake (with the filter and MAS adapter) used as well for a reasonable price. there is some wiring for the new 2g MAS but you can buy a 1g to 2g wiring harness here... 89-94 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Talon, Laser & Galant VR4 1G to 2G [TN-1G2GMH] - $49.89 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
heres the how-to if your a "do it yourself" person and don't want to buy the harness... 2G MAF in a 1G TEL/GVR4

i also suggest you "crush" your stock bov or else you'll have a boost leak there, read up... DDG- Talon BOV mod for HIGH BOOST
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/27467-proper-way-crush-bov-merged-7-8-crushing-crushed-1g.html

:dsm:
 
one more thing. i noticed your asking about a 1g... i see you've got a K&N intake, is that a filter or INTAKE? i ask because the 1g MAS is very restrictive so id say the first you invest in (before the exhaust) would be a 2g intake and 2g MAS... you can get a 2g MAS from $20 to $50 depending on who you get it from and an intake (with the filter and MAS adapter) used as well for a reasonable price. there is some wiring for the new 2g MAS but you can buy a 1g to 2g wiring harness here... 89-94 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Talon, Laser & Galant VR4 1G to 2G [TN-1G2GMH] - $49.89 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce
heres the how-to if your a "do it yourself" person and don't want to buy the harness... 2G MAF in a 1G TEL/GVR4

i also suggest you "crush" your stock bov or else you'll have a boost leak there, read up... DDG- Talon BOV mod for HIGH BOOST
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/27467-proper-way-crush-bov-merged-7-8-crushing-crushed-1g.html

:dsm:

It was just a filter, but I just recently gutted the MAF and put on a Hard Pipe

I have a 2G MAS laying around I just haven't got around to installing it and making the harness.

Thanks for that info

FYI I looked at those links you gave me and I dont find it nessecary to crush my BOV.

when the car was running 20 PSI when i first got it, it held 20 PSI the whole way until I shifted.

Right now I'm running 16 Psi, and It holds all the way to 7k if I take it that far.

If I hold my desired amount of boost then whats the point of raising the amount of boost that the BOV opens at? That just seems like a easy way for things to get out of hand with my motor. I was under the impression the Waste Gate was the one that stopped me from boosting too high (that's why the boost controller is hooked up to the WGA right?) and the BOV just let out all extra air in the turbo plumbing when I left off the gas. Am I wrong or right? Some clarification would be great!
 
Last edited:
It was just a filter, but I just recently gutted the MAF and put on a Hard Pipe

I have a 2G MAS laying around I just haven't got around to installing it and making the harness.

Thanks for that info

FYI I looked at those links you gave me and I dont find it nessecary to crush my BOV.

when the car was running 20 PSI when i first got it, it held 20 PSI the whole way until I shifted.

Right now I'm running 16 Psi, and It holds all the way to 7k if I take it that far.

If I hold my desired amount of boost then whats the point of raising the amount of boost that the BOV opens at? That just seems like a easy way for things to get out of hand with my motor. I was under the impression the Waste Gate was the one that stopped me from boosting too high (that's why the boost controller is hooked up to the WGA right?) and the BOV just let out all extra air in the turbo plumbing when I left off the gas. Am I wrong or right? Some clarification would be great!
sorry its taken me a few days to get back to you...
if the cars holding 20psi then your right, crushing the bov right now is overkill. the wastegate is whats supposed to control boost, thats why you crush the bov because it'll start to leak if you boost too much. while i was at RRE a few months ago i was watching a 2g on the dyno running e85 on a basically STOCK dsm. he was still using his stock 2g bov (which is plastic) and it didn't matter how much they turned up the boost on his MBC his crappy plastic bov would start leaking at 14psi.
so yes you are correct, the bov releases the air in the IC piping when you let off on the throttle and your boosting. the wga redirects the flow of your exhaust gas by opening up a flap keeping the amount you boost in check.

:dsm:
 
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