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Building another engine What do u Think?

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JBDdsmer610

15+ Year Contributor
508
8
Mar 4, 2006
easton, Pennsylvania
ok so im building another one almost just like the last build i did.. using 6 bolt block, weisco pistons .20 over 8:3:1 using my old 1g big rods machined for floaters, a crank with less than 60k on it and ARP main studs and rod bolts that are already on the rods. bran new oil pump cover, mitsu multi layer HG, ported head, new seals valves reground, and the head decked and hot tanked. might be throwing in a set of 272's too but what do you guys think about that so far?
 
I think it sounds like a good build
 
if you are using the arp main studs make sure your block get align honed before that. make sure you follow arp's torquing specs on the rod bolts.. i believe you have to torque them 3 times. other than that.. you can probably pull off 400 hp plus with out disaster... the weak point would be your rods.... if i were you i would save another 300$ or so and get a set of forged rods.... :thumb:
 
i dont know if you bought the weiscos already but.. iv heard they tend to crack around the wrist pin area.. im not saying they are not a good piston because the company defiantly has a good rep.. there beefier model had better reviews from what i read but i thought id throw that out there
 
thanks for the input guys and i kno the weak point will be my rods i might just go with a set of eagle rods and as far as the weisco's i have never had a problem with them i use there pistons in everything i build and my dad has been using them since the 80's so i trust them and yes th B/S are eliminated. and i am also gonna be running ECM link v3 660's and 2g MAS
 
ok so im building another one almost just like the last build i did.. using 6 bolt block, weisco pistons .20 over 8:3:1 using my old 1g big rods machined for floaters, a crank with less than 60k on it and ARP main studs and rod bolts that are already on the rods. bran new oil pump cover, mitsu multi layer HG, ported head, new seals valves reground, and the head decked and hot tanked. might be throwing in a set of 272's too but what do you guys think about that so far?

if you are using the arp main studs make sure your block get align honed before that. make sure you follow arp's torquing specs on the rod bolts.. i believe you have to torque them 3 times. other than that.. you can probably pull off 400 hp plus with out disaster... the weak point would be your rods.... if i were you i would save another 300$ or so and get a set of forged rods.... :thumb:

Sounds like a solid mild build, however, I don't see a need for main studs on a block built to see anything less than 500hp. I would rather see you spend that money on rods bolts.

i dont know if you bought the weiscos already but.. iv heard they tend to crack around the wrist pin area.. im not saying they are not a good piston because the company defiantly has a good rep.. there beefier model had better reviews from what i read but i thought id throw that out there

Wiseco HD's are nice, but again, overkill on stock rods. Personally I prefer the Manley pistons, but I have had good luck with both.

thanks for the input guys and i kno the weak point will be my rods i might just go with a set of eagle rods and as far as the weisco's i have never had a problem with them i use there pistons in everything i build and my dad has been using them since the 80's so i trust them and yes th B/S are eliminated. and i am also gonna be running ECM link v3 660's and 2g MAS

You are right on the weak link being the rods, as I stated above I would at bare minimum spring for a set of ARP rod bolts, however you can get into a set of Manley H-beams right around the $300 mark and Manley tends to run a lot more consistent with tolerances than Eagle. Again, that is a personal preference, I have had good luck with both.

-Oliver
 
yea i would ###### go with eagle rods or scat rods and my 1g rods are already machined for floaters with arp rod bolts installed already but again might go with a set of rods once i get this bastard 20g im looking to make 350-400hp but i guess we will see how it works out and the machine shop i am using has been in buisness for over 30 years and they do awsome work. i think i only paid 250 for valve regrounds, new seals installed decked, magnafluxed, and everything checked to make sure it was in spec and also put a set of SS exhaust studs in the head.
 
yea i will be buying my friends holset bastard 20g for 25 bucks just need to get it rebuilts seals are shot

What do u guys think? i am really thinking about going with the scat rods, but i also have the eagle's or manley's in mind the scat rods are 10$ more than the eagles this is a hard decision
 
short block.....

Ok guys been a while.....but i finally made up my mind and i changed my whole build....well here goes guys. 6 bolt block, Mahle piston .20 over, eagle rods, acl race bearings (main and rod), kiggly racing main girdle, Arp mains, B/S removed, oil squirters blocked, knife edged crank, blue printed and balanced to 9000Rpms toga front case/pump, kevlar T/B,

Cylinder head.....

super tech valves, supertech valve guides, supertech valve seals, kiggly behive springs, stock locks, Kelford 272's, Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears, SS manifold studs, magmus heat barrier intake gasket, JM Race SMIM, Head ported and flow bench tested.

Turbo.....

Gonna be running a big 16g ported, tial 38mm wastegate vented, punishment o2 housing for my break in. Then i will ###### be throwing a bastard 20g at her or mabey an HX35

Tunning......

ECM link v3 (full), 680cc injectors for now, PLX wideband o2, wally 255 rewired, Aeromotive fuel presure regulator, -6AN SS line from tank to rail

And everything is at the machine shop in Bloomsburg PA

:hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah::hellyeah:
 
Ditch the girdle, main studs, blocking the squirters, and knife edging the crank. This stuff just isn't needed untill your in the 6-700hp area. And the squirters cool the pistons, and that allows you to get away with more boost on pump gas.

Also find a oem from cover, aftermarket shit is junk there.
 
Ok, I dont want to sound rude, but this is gotta be said: a stock 6-bolt can hold upwards of 500HP with just cams and a big turbo.

You may spend your money as you see fit. However if you want advice, ditch all these expensive engine mods and go with a formula that works. There are many community accepted build ideas here, all you need to do is ask.

The best engine I have ever owned had mahle 9.5:1 pistons/Eagle rods/2.4L 4g64 crank/BC280's/T3 SC61. I used all factory hardware from the dealership with no issues. also H11 head bolts.
 
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