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2G Brand new ACT 2600 toasted?

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HaulinTSI

15+ Year Contributor
48
0
Nov 23, 2003
TAMPA, Florida
I recently installed a built tranny with a ACT 2600 pp, street disc, and lightweight fly. Brand new fork, brand new oem TOB. The tranny came with a shimmed pivot ball. So i installed the tranny and for some reason the fork was grinding the pressure plate. Drove it around for a couple months and the grinding sound kind of went away a little.

Well the other day went to change gears driving normal and clutch pedal wasn't the same and the gears would engage when the pedal was all the way up off the floor. And now clutch slips like a maniac. Do you guys think i roasted my disc because of that shimmed pivot ball and if so could i get away with just buying a new disc and taking out the shim?

thanks for any advice.

Car is a 98 GSX full 6 bolt.
 
1. If it was grinding and you knew it, why did you continue to drive it?
2. What flywheel do you have?
 
1. If it was grinding and you knew it, why did you continue to drive it?
2. What flywheel do you have?



Act lightweight fly.. I continued to drive it because it was almost midnight and it was my only ride and havent got time since to take out the damn shim.
Gears go in smooth all the time. Clutch just slips with a mild throttle. when i have it on cruise control going up a tiny hill it will Slip very fast.. sucks because i just spent some good money on the entire drivetrain. clutch setup and stage 4 tranny. Im trying to find out if i can slip a new disc or maybe 6 puck in there and remove the shim. I havent pulled the trans out yet so i dont know the damage. Thanks for the support ahead of time.
 
well the pp is ###### junk now. i wouldnt of cared how late it was i would of stoped drop the trans and look
 
I highly doubt it was the washer under the pivit ball as it only moves the fork slightly allowing you more adjustment on the clutch master rod under the dash.

Pull the tranny back off and inspect the PP as it will give you the answers your looking for.
 
I highly dought it was the washer under the pivit ball as it only moves the fork slightly allowing you more adjustment on the clutch master rod under the dash. Pull the trany back off and inspect the PP as it will give you the answers your looking for.



Well with the shim, it put the fork out more toward the PP. and the fork was grinding the outside of the pp. P.P would be bad now even though all gears are smooth and that the clutch slips? ouch that will suck
 
Well with the shim, it put the fork out more toward the PP. and the fork was grinding the outside of the pp. P.P would be bad now even though all gears are smooth and that the clutch slips? ouch that will suck

Did you install the OEM throw out bearing with the spring that holds the bearing to the fork?? Did you check and make sure the PP was attached to the flywheel all the way?
 
it is very important to have those dowel pins in the bolt, when installing these clutches. Also the starter shield needs to be there too. The dowel pins must be in the block too, not the transmission side. Make sure the clutch for is snapped in onto the ball. Good luck!
 
^ yes used a brand new OEM tob, made sure everything was tight. I can look at the fork under the car touching the outside of the pp. The only reason i think of, is the shim under pivot ball.

Would you think the same, because if you think about it, what does the pivot ball do? And if you extend the pivot ball further out it will push the fork further out allowing it to rub the P.P. Does that seem possible?

Trying to go basic here wondering if anyone agrees about this? I hope its only the disc that's fried so i can get a new SB disc and remove that shim.

On another note: The slave cylinder has no movement what so ever. Its hard as a rock. Since the fork is so tight against the slave rod. Even after adjusting the clutch pedal over and over there's 0 movement in the slave.

Why would that be? and would that be the cause of the shim?

Looking at the fork from under the car you can easily see that it is angled way over to the driver side of the car. I know its bad to have it angled toward the passenger side but Is it possible to have it angled so much toward the driver side that it can cause the fork to hit the pp?
 
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How big was the shim that was put on the pivot ball?OMG
One simple washer shouldn't put the fork all the way to the driver's side,LOL
 
A single washer can cause pp grinding. A personal experience.

^ I knew there was somebody that had the same problem.

Since you have experience, what happens when the fork grinds the pp? I have heard people say that it puts constant pressure on the disc and it will wear out extremely fast? Which in my situation my clutch disc is most likely fried since it slips bad.

I'm going to buy another TOB, Fork and ball along with a 6 puck disc and throw that damn shim out. Hope that will solve everything. And i really hope that its only the disc that i messed up because a 2600 pp is not cheap and only has few miles on it.

And when that shim is in like i said in the earlier post. the slave cylinder has ZERO free play, hard as a rock.
 
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^ I knew there was somebody that had the same problem. Since you have experience.. what happens when the fork grinds the p.p.? i have heard people say that it puts constant pressure on the disc and it will wear out extremely fast? which in my situation my clutch disc is most likely fried since it slips bad. . Im going to buy another TOB, Fork and ball along with a 6 puck disc and throw that damn shim out. Hope that will solve everything. And i really hope that its only the disc that i messed up. because a 2600 pp is not cheap and has few miles on it. And when that shim is in like i said in the earlier post. the slave cylinder has ZERO free play, hard as a rock.


Make sure that there is no warping on the PP.....
 
^ Yes going to inspect the fly and PP when i rip everything apart. hopefully the only thing screwed is the clutch disc
 
OOH i see. You may have missed this step. When you put the washer behind the ball, you may have to shim the slave cylinder away from the clutch fork a little. if you dont then when you push the clutch all the way to the floor, the pressure plate fingers will rub against the disk pushing pretty much engaging the clutch again!
 
OOH i see. You may have missed this step. When you put the washer behind the ball, you may have to shim the slave cylinder away from the clutch fork a little. if you don't then when you push the clutch all the way to the floor, the pressure plate fingers will rub against the disk pushing pretty much engaging the clutch again!

Bingo! Due to the use of a single washer I have damn near an inch of shims on my slave so that on full clutch depression there is no grind.
Inspect the spring retainers on the pp for sure no one likes popping springs.
 
When you put in a new fork and ball you dont need to shim it. That puts a preload on the pressure plate causing premature failure. The only reason why some shim it is either due to excessive wear on the ball/fork, or a resurfaced flywheel. How do i know? It happened to me and mine failed. And an A.C.T. rep told me along with shep racing less then a month ago. Food for Thought.
 
When you put in a new fork and ball you dont need to shim it. That puts a preload on the pressure plate causing premature failure. The only reason why some shim it is either due to excessive wear on the ball/fork, or a resurfaced flywheel. How do i know? It happened to me and mine failed. And an A.C.T. rep told me along with shep racing less then a month ago. Food for Thought.

The only way it will cause a failure is if you didnt adjust the master cylinder rod for the correct freeplay in the petal. I have never had a problem with it just more adjustment.
I dont understand why guys dont see that adding a washer allows more movement of the clutch fork aiding in clutch release.
As long as it is adjusted properly there is no added wear from being in the stock mode.

OOH i see. You may have missed this step. When you put the washer behind the ball, you may have to shim the slave cylinder away from the clutch fork a little. if you dont then when you push the clutch all the way to the floor, the pressure plate fingers will rub against the disk pushing pretty much engaging the clutch again!

NO the slave mounts up just like stock everything is the same except the washer behind the pivot ball..
You adjust the pressure with the master cylinder rod under the dash. You should not preload at all you should have 1/16 of clutch petal free play....

the washer goes behind the clutch fork ball. the reason to add the washer is so the clutch doesnt release low to the floor.

Exactly
 
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Extended slave rod is bad. Just a band aid fix for other problems in the system. I tryed the extended rod awhile back and immediately took it out.. Im going to buy another NEW oem TOB, fork and ball along with a 6puck sprung disc and removal of the shim. Then and finally my clutch system should be 100%.
 
When you put in a new fork and ball you dont need to shim it. That puts a preload on the pressure plate causing premature failure. The only reason why some shim it is either due to excessive wear on the ball/fork, or a resurfaced flywheel. How do i know? It happened to me and mine failed. And an A.C.T. rep told me along with shep racing less then a month ago. Food for Thought.

YouTube - Pivot Ball Shimming

i went by this one^^ and never had any issues


ive never watched this one but ill post it since it was talked about on here.v v v

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment
 
the washer goes behind the clutch fork ball. the reason to add the washer is so the clutch doesnt release low to the floor.

not thread jacking, but i just put in my brand new 2600, new fork and new pivot ball(oem) with no shim behind it, and the clutch releases real low to the floor! i thought you DO NOT shim a new fork and ball? does this mean i have to drop the trans again and shim my new fork and ball?
 
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