brake rotors/pads questions

[FuelInjected]

hi guys, i am waiting on a set of slotted rotors and hps pads right now, should be here anytime within this or next week. my brakes started squeeking two days ago, everytime i brake, they squeak noticably. you think its ok if i drive another week or so? my brakes feel fine, just squeek?

2nd question on installation of rotors and pads:
it will be my first brake job, and i read through the manual a few times.
when i open the fluid reservoir, i'll syphon some fluid out, and then i replace rotors, and pads, and follow the rest of the procedure. after i am done, am i suppose to put some fluid back in, before i go and pump the pedal slowly...?
i just want to install brake rotors and pads without bleeding.
also if there is any manuals online with pics, would highly help, i tried looking around these forums, and on google, and only found pad installations, not rotors. unless i am blind.

Thanks guys!

 

[knochgoon24]

1. You'll be fine. Those squealers are just there to warn you that the pads are getting low.

2. I've never had to take brake fluid out of the reservoir. I compress the brake pistons (a large c-clamp works, go slow) just enough to get the caliper over the pads and rotor. It's a really simple job. Since you are putting on new rotors and pads, just check your fluid level once you're done.

 

[FuelInjected]

ok cool, thats exactly what i needed to know.
it looks very simple in the manual.
also, when i do open the fluid reservoir, if i need to add more fluid, the air will not be able to get in that way right?
i dont want to get air bubles in the system if i open the cap on the reservoir.
will do so or no?
thats the last question. thanks a lot.

 

[Gstclipse69]

No air will be able to get in just by opening the reservoir. Air can only get in the system if the fluid goes empty in the reservoir. So just keep fluid in it.

 

[FuelInjected]

awesome guys, that everything i needed to know.

 

[dragonforce]

Make sure you clean the rotors with brake cleaner. apply synthetic grease to caliper bolts. I usually don't siphon fluid from reservoir unless fluid is full. if your brakes are worn, fluid level should be half full or low.

 

[cavillac]

^^ True, it is a good Idea to apply lube to all contact surfaces, especially the pad hardware, I usually replace it but I suggest lubing it so that your pads dont get stuck in them.

 

[FuelInjected]

well i have the haynes manual, it does say to lube few things. i am not sure if its all in detail. my dad has changed rotors before, and pads on his car, and he has that clamp i will need for the pistons, and some multipurpose lube. he said he will give me a hand, so i hope he knows what to lube, or it says what to lube in the manual. i dont have it with me to check right now, cus i am at work, but i think i should be fine. unless there is something specific, i may miss out, that is not listed in the manual.
thanks guys!

 

[christ]

I'd suggest bleeding your brake fluid and filling it with brand new fluid if you don't know when it's been done last or over 2 years if you want the most out of your parts.

 

[FuelInjected]

i just had a shop bleed my clutch, thats what i dont want to bleed again.

 

[untouchablecc]

You will love it with that combo that thing is going to stop on a dime i did that to my friends an he almost hit his head off the wheel when he braked

 

[-TunedDSM-]

i just had a shop bleed my clutch, thats what i dont want to bleed again.

The brakes are a separate hydraulic system than the clutch.

 

[FuelInjected]

oh, i thought they shared the same reservoir for the fluid, so i figured the bleeding procedure would cover both brakes and clutch. sorry i am new to working on cars, this is my first brake job.
i am going to do it today by the way, will see i may bleed it, i may not.. i got brake lines as well, so maybe i'll bleed the system, if my dad is willing to help me with that. i don't think i'll be able to do it myself without extra hands.
i read through the manual numerous times, seems pretty straight forward, so i think i should be fine. yesterday i finished installing my FIPK, short throw shifter and poly base bushings for the shifter plate. feels awesome now!!! i am excited about this brake job, and learning more, took me about 5 hours to do everything yesterday, but that was because i snapped one of shifter base bolts, which was rusted completely, and had to drill and thread a new hole, and put new bolt in, which i had to go to the store, to buy all the stuff, and then come back and do it.. not to mention i did it all outside in -5, and with about 10cm of snow. so i feel good. haha.
anyways wish me luck, i'll come back and post results of my brake job here.
thanks for all the help guys!

umm quick questions, i dont have a torque wrench, should i buy one? i would rather not if i can get by without it for the brakes.

 

[FuelInjected]

sorry i posted earlier, i am just doing this right now, and would like to get some feedback quick. i will delete this post right after.
i have dual piston calipers in the front. i am trying to get the guide and lock pins off, but i can't move them at all!!!
i tried putting the c-clamp on, but i can only put it on the back of one piston, i can't seem to put it in between, becase there is that banjo bolt.

how do i position the c-clamp? if i am trying to get the bottom bolt out, i think thats the lock pin. do i put the c-clamp on the piston that is closer to that bolt?
i am a bit confused, and the bolt doesnt want to budge easily, but i dont want to break it either, and this c-clamp is confusing me.

please someone help me quick, i am outside in snow right now, trying to figure this thing out. its my first brake job. and yes i read through manual multiple times, and its only on one piston calipers.. i have 2. and i canposition the clamp between them, because of that banjo bolt.


THanks GUYS!!!

 

[delta448]

I don't remember if it's called the guide or lock pin, but the lower pin is the only one you need to get out. If it's seized spray it with brake parts cleaner, tap lightly with a hammer on the bolt head, and use a cheater pipe or more light tapping on the end of your wrench to break it loose.

Before taking the pin all the way out, remove the brake fluid resevoir cap and use the c-clamp anywhere on the outside of the caliper and against the rotor or whatever's handy to press the pistons back into the caliper, -the goal is just to prevent the pistons from popping out of their bores in the caliper once the rotor isn't there to hold them in. Watch that you don't overflow the resevoir while doing this, brake fluid eats paint.

Once you get that lower pin out of the caliper you can swing it up off of the rotor and tie it up there with a piece of wire. Believe me, it hurts if it swings down and pinches a fingertip.

 

[FuelInjected]

thanks man. i did everything, i changed the rotors, and pads. all 4s, and put winter tires on. my car is too ####ing low for winter, i am probably going to have to take it to a shop, or maybe try to raise myself, i have 2 sets of different height springs, stocks, and my currents ones. anyways, i changed all the rotors and pads, it sucked big on a few bolts, but i did them all. i didnt open my fluid reservoir cap or anything, it seemed fine, brakes are like on the dime right now, it's awesome. the only thing is my back brakes make a bit of noise. i know the pads are supposed to be a bit noiser and the slotted rotors i got, but this is a louder sound, and comes mostly when i go through turns, if i turn left, my right rear pad makes sound, and vice versa. it's definetly a pad against rotor sound, i checked my bracked caliper bolts, guide, lock pins, and not sure why is making noise. my guess is that my pads have to wear in a bit more. and because they are so thick, going in turns they pads rub and make noise. i am not sure, anyways if anyone knows please let me know, i checked everything twice, and made sure i didn't #### up anything, but it's pretty straight forward, i don't think i did. the brake in i did was: 5-6 medium stops, 4 hard stops, all from like 40m/hr. could it be because its just new pads? i am not sure what to look for, or what could be causing this, but it's pretty ####ing loud in turns sometimes.