Brake problem, im SO fed up with these brakes!!!

[Ho0ked]

So my brakes suck, nothing new there, mushy pedal, wont stop unless double pumped, and pushed almost all the way down.

Technical- some unknown crossdrilled, sloted rotors all 4 wheels.
Advance auto parts ceramic pos pads rear, Hawk pads front.

Brake booster passed all the tests I could find for it.
Bled all 4 wheels starting at the passenger side rear, motor running,
1 new drivers side caliper later (bleeder broke). I bleed a whole double sized bottle of fluid through this frickin thing!

The brakes suck same as before, non ABS 96 Gst, will not lock the wheels no matter what.

Double pumping and extra stopping distance required.

What am I missing?
What have I done wrong?

I am at a loss and totally fed up I want to stop!!!

Please help

 

[tkelly27]

Check for leaks.

The last time I bled a set of brakes, I did it wrong and was getting the problems you are talking about. Are you bleeding them yourself? Get a friend, you don't need the engine running either. Following proper bleed procedure? If it runs the tineiest bit low in the reservour and sucks in air, you've made it worse.

Pump up 5-10 times, hold, then crack open the bleeder. Have a piece of tubing running into some clean brake fluid. Bleed until you stop seeing bubbles. It'll stop squirting long before the bubbles stop coming. Even tiny bubles compress dramatically and comprimise braking power.

Good luck.

 

[ZmanIV]

master cylinder seals, or maybe you just glazed the pads and now you cant stop.
Also maybe you got brake fluid onto the rotors

 

[Ho0ked]

Had my brother help.

Followed the manual, engine running rr to lf - lr to rf.

pumped 6 times then hold, open bleeder untill only fuild comes out.
rinse repeat bout 5 times per wheel. Checked the fluid level cap off after each wheel and refilled, level never went below the mark as I stared with it overfull to compensate

Master cyclinder was replaced couple months ago, bled my clutch and totally spaced and never bled the brakes, figured this was the issue, but 2 hours and $50 wasted later I'm still at square 1 /sigh

rotors are clean used hose and catch bottle


Any other ides?

 

[ZmanIV]

Glazed pads.
Remove the pads and check them.
Use light sand paper to remove the glaze and try again.
Remember that new pads need to bed in before you go and try doing full brake power.

 

[ACM]

If the pedal is always soft, mushy, long travel you may have seized caliper pistons, stuck piston seals, or bent/seized caliper pins. I also ran into the rear splash guard being bent on one wheel, causing the caliper not to sit parallel with the rotor.

Another problem I had was a malfunctioning proportioning valve, which stopped most of the pressure reaching the rear brakes.

A useful tool for brake diagnosis is an IR thermometer, this makes it easy to spot a brake that is over- or under-performing.

Charles

 

[Locke]

Try bleeding at the master cylinder first, then bleed the lines at the calipers.

 

[Ho0ked]

Hmmm, some good ideas there, thank you guys, i'm going to try some of those

 

[TRBOBLU]

If it still doesnt work after bleeding the master cylinder then try gravity bleeding the brakes. Honestly, gravity bleeding is the only method that ever gets my brakes perfect(it even beats my $150 mity vac).