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Brake, Battery light - flicker on /off DEAD ALTERNATOR [Merged 4-8]

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BrnOutKing

20+ Year Contributor
296
1
May 16, 2002
West Palm Beach, Florida
Ok this just started happening.

I'll be driving and the E-Brake and Battery light will flicker on / off while driving..... or I'll start it up and they'll stay on.

normally I'd think it was battery related.

But I'm not sure on this one. - I just changed my brake pads, so that shouldn't be triggering anything.

The battery is a couple months old. - however my alternator is going - it doens't work from time to time.

What's your opinions. - I noticed it goes on and off with bumps with leads me to believe it's a loose wire or something?

However I have no Idea which one? or where it would be located.

I'm thinking I'm going to pull the center console off to check out the e-brake area for anything out of the ordinary today.

Thanks
-brian
 
Idle voltage should be over 13v (14.4v is ideal). Battery is 12.6v with no charging. Make sure both the red and black-yellow (sometimes blue if no generator relay) wires on the 4 wire alt connector have over 12v on them when connected.
 
Hey im currently running a problem I think Is my alternator but not sure yet again.

So far I have replaced the battery and there are new terminals on both the positive and negative.

The battery reads perfect when its off and then reads around 13.6 at Idle this is using a multimeter.

The alternator is reading 14v when I touch the multimeter to the positive side of the alternator and then ground it to the alternator case.

Yet when I turn on my accesories and what not it even further drops to around 12V any help is appreciated

Thanks
Armin
 
Last edited:
When lamps (colant level, battery and brake) go on. My voltage is 12,2 V, sometimes 11,7 V. I know this is bad alternator. But strange thing is that this same alternator was repaired 2 weeks ago. They changed everything.


Ckeck 80 amp alt fuse near battery.

Aftermarket alts from pep boys and such going bad one after the other is kind of common and I had 3 brand new ones put in at pep-boys in 2 mths time with all of them going bad one after the other. This has been the experince of MANY other dsm'ers too with aftermarket alts from autozone, sears auto, etc etc. The best advice is to pay the extra bucks and buy oem mitsu alt and it is well worth the extra money.

Btw install is not too hard if you're willing to get under the hood and do it yourself :)
 
The best advice is to pay the extra bucks and buy oem mitsu alt and it is well worth the extra money.
A brand new alt although it will work fine, will cost a fortune. An alternative is to get either new or rebuilt from an alternator/starter repair shop (or have yours repaired there). They have much more reliable stuff and many rebuild alts right there. I agree, most/all auto stores sell junk rebuilt alts as witnessed by the hundreds and hundreds of posts on here stating their experience with exacltly that.
 
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