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BOV upgrade

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boostedgsx95

10+ Year Contributor
127
0
Jun 19, 2009
Topeka, Kansas
Im looking to upgrade my BOV very soon.. Ive had my 1g bov for quite awhile now and I want something that flutters at low boost. My 1g is just to quite! I cant decide if I want the greddy rs or the hks ssqv. which one sounds better and will perform just as well?

Thanks:thumb:
 
if its the noise you want just go with an open element air filter and it wont muffle the BOV's venting noise so much. the hks does sound like a terd dropping in the toilet when recirc. i saw something somewhere about an insert for the 1g BOV to make its venting noise sound different. do some exploring. stock parts also last longer than aftermarket. why do you think stock parts carry a hefty price. not only are they better but they outlast the aftermarket crap.
 
NGR Type-S ftw IMO it is the best sounding BOV in the market for recirculated, vented is way too loud for my liking. Youtube it for videos, sounds badass I have one, will post review soon, since I have had it for around 2 years and still perfect running 27psi.

But a 1g BOV would be good for you for now, no need to upgrade unless you really need to or have more mods.
 
How can/will it destroy your journal bearings?
The "flutter" that everyone thinks is so cool is the airflow not being able to escape through the valve at low boost because the valve is sprung too heavily to open under vacuum during a light boost situation.

What's happening is the airflow is backing up in the charge piping after the throttle plate is 100% closed, and being that the air is nowhere to go it attempts to force the compressor wheel to stall or even spin the opposite direction. This excessive load forces the shaft to contact the journal bearings instead of "floating" on a film of oil.

A good buddy of mine nearly wiped out his Frank 5 20G in a week of daily driving when he forgot to hook up the BOV line after doing a Prothane trans mount install. A turbo that had no play for over a year had noticeable shaft play following that mistake.
 
Im looking to upgrade my BOV very soon.. Ive had my 1g bov for quite awhile now and I want something that flutters at low boost. My 1g is just to quite! I cant decide if I want the greddy rs or the hks ssqv. which one sounds better and will perform just as well?

Thanks:thumb:

If you really want a nice BOV get the turbo XS rfl, It stand for real f98king loud, I have it on mine and its rated at 158 decibles!. I have it atmospheric but its an auto so I don't really worry about stalling.

Im looking to upgrade my BOV very soon.. Ive had my 1g bov for quite awhile now and I want something that flutters at low boost. My 1g is just to quite! I cant decide if I want the greddy rs or the hks ssqv. which one sounds better and will perform just as well?

Thanks:thumb:

If you really want a nice BOV get the turbo XS rfl, It stand for real f98king loud, I have it on mine and its rated at 158 decibles!. I have it atmospheric but its an auto so I don't really worry about stalling. real nice 2-5 psi flutter then it gets LOUD
 
If you really want a nice BOV get the turbo XS rfl, It stand for real f98king loud, I have it on mine and its rated at 158 decibles!.
A gunshot is 140dB; I find it hard to believe your RFL ricer valve is almost 20dB louder than a gunshot.

The name actually stands for Real F*ckin' Leaky as the valve is designed to make 5psi sound like 30psi being released. The three set screws holding the valve to the base, a mounting system that is normally reserved for delicate lighting fixtures, confirms the valve's ability to hold high boost levels.
 
if its the noise you want just go with an open element air filter and it wont muffle the BOV's venting noise so much. the hks does sound like a terd dropping in the toilet when recirc. i saw something somewhere about an insert for the 1g BOV to make its venting noise sound different. do some exploring. stock parts also last longer than aftermarket. why do you think stock parts carry a hefty price. not only are they better but they outlast the aftermarket crap.

I have an open element air filter...

The "flutter" that everyone thinks is so cool is the airflow not being able to escape through the valve at low boost because the valve is sprung too heavily to open under vacuum during a light boost situation.

What's happening is the airflow is backing up in the charge piping after the throttle plate is 100% closed, and being that the air is nowhere to go it attempts to force the compressor wheel to stall or even spin the opposite direction. This excessive load forces the shaft to contact the journal bearings instead of "floating" on a film of oil.

A good buddy of mine nearly wiped out his Frank 5 20G in a week of daily driving when he forgot to hook up the BOV line after doing a Prothane trans mount install. A turbo that had no play for over a year had noticeable shaft play following that mistake.

So would the HKS SSQV cause this?

+1 for what this guy said. I have a vta Tial and i actually miss my 1g recirced. 20psi is easily achievable, i was running 25psi on mine

No specific reason I just want something new

+1 for what this guy said. I have a vta Tial and i actually miss my 1g recirced. 20psi is easily achievable, i was running 25psi on mine

No specific reason I just want something new
 
So would the HKS SSQV cause this?
Generally a push-pull type valve does not surge by design. They can be sprung lighter so the vacuum can easily draw the valve open yet still hold a ton of boost because the boost pressure is actually helping to hold the valve shut.

I don't really like these types of chambered valves (Synapse/HKS) because they puzzle me as to how the valve can still be drawn open by the vacuum even when there's 30psi attempting to hold it shut. I'd be scared that in a quick shift the valve wouldn't open quick enough.
 
+1 for the hks ssqv. i don't agree with all these spring-type BOVs. they cannot respond as quickly as something that acts on 2 chambers with a pressure differential. a spring type relies on vacuum on one side and boost on the other to counteract a spring. also the hks ssqv WILL NOT leak because the more boost you throw at it, the tighter it will hold. a good oem BOV to try are ones from mk2 mr2s. they are the same design as the hks, probably older and better.
 
Generally a push-pull type valve does not surge by design. They can be sprung lighter so the vacuum can easily draw the valve open yet still hold a ton of boost because the boost pressure is actually helping to hold the valve shut.

I don't really like these types of chambered valves (Synapse/HKS) because they puzzle me as to how the valve can still be drawn open by the vacuum even when there's 30psi attempting to hold it shut. I'd be scared that in a quick shift the valve wouldn't open quick enough.

So in a quick shift, it's possible for "compressor surge?"
 
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