bought a 97 2g gst, looking to fix a few odds and ends

[mantega4g63]

So I'll start by saying this is my first turbo car, I'm no know-it-all but I know my way around somewhat. I'll list what I know about the car mod-wise, and what I know is wrong. Basically looking for someone to assess what issues I do have and to confirm them, warn me of possible future issues and good fixes for them.
If I break any rules don't hesitate to let me know, I've done a fair amount of research on each of these problems.
FYI: got the car for 3700

Mods :
16g JDMSport turbo (facepalm)
6puck stage 3 clutch, 8lb aluminum flywheel, new pressure plate (see pic)
HKS turbo timer/OBX boost gauge/manual boost controller
Brand new top end from cylinder heads int
carbon fiber exhaust tip 2.5"
JDMSport fmic
255 walboro fuel pump
CXRacing aluminum radiator with 2x pusher and 2x puller fans
lowered on koni yellow struts/eibach springs


Bad :
Front crank seal oil leak
bad motor/transmission mount, possible bad cv axle too
was overheating when i got it, had a bad coolant hose and 2 fans on this giant radiator. put a fuel line hose to replace bad hose and put 2x more fans, no cooling problems since, helped out a lot.
had too much crank case pressure, was blowing out dipstick. put 2x breathers and eliminated the pcv system so i know no oil can be in my IM, getting oil on one of the breathers so soon to put a catch can on (see pic)
boost leak from possible bad ic piping (looks like someone beat it with a hammer , has jv weld over it and a coupler)
bad door handles, pass only opens from inside. driver door frame off track but i have new door mounts to fix it
dent on front pass side of fender
keeps blowing a vac hose from my boost controller not from jpipe but near turbo
hits fuel cut pretty bad in 3rd/4th/5th, i have an aftermarket exhaust/turbo manifold to be installed and i think short route fmic will help



NOW i'm looking to get some questions answered
firstly, what kind of bov is this? i'm looking to get a short route fmic from vrsf vendors on these forums and go with a 1g bov.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also I'd love to get the car tuned but at the moment that's going to have to wait. For now I would like to fix my fuel cut and get a quicker spool, 4500 is a joke. Would a new intercooler (that way I could surely eliminate that being a boost leak, only puts down about 10lbs according to aftermarket gauge) and new turbo manifold help airflow to the turbo and get it spooling good and get rid of fuel cut? should i just fabricate a short route for my JDMSport ic? heres a pic of the piping, i can take more if needed. 2.5" piping with 2" jpipe

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Should I put my pcv system back into place? thinking of replacing the pcv valve and getting a check valve and putting on a catch can. pic of my breather collecting some oil:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

this part of the air filter housing is duct taped, can anyone lmk what needs to be here?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

anyone care to take a shot in the dark at what brand pressure plate this is?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

thanks for your help/critiques/criticism in advance
debating on getting all of this ebay shit off and having this car right or just selling and getting one as close to stock as possible
pic of the car:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[4Lurker4]

The part duct taped to your intake pipe is the recirculation fitting. It's used to recirculate the air from the blow off valve back into the intake. At this present time your BOV is vented to the atmosphere. Having it recirculated will make the car run better at idle and during shifting.

The BOV is an el-cheapo ebay version, I have one in a bag of parts I chucked from a parts car.

 

[PrimerPLus]

I don't know what kind of BOV that is I tried to google but got nothing. The picture that you have circled that has tape on it is where you are suppose to have recirculated your BOV. But that BOV doesn't seem have a place for it. If you are looking for a FMIC check out PR FMIC. Comes with a greddy type s knock off BoV.

Looks like Lurker knows what that bov is.

Your "fuel cut" may also be caused by your boost leaks. I had a similar problem with a leak at the throttle body felt like fuel cut. Fixed that and no more brick wall.
It looks pretty good just needs some TLC.

Also on your intake on your 2nd picture, there is a vacuum hose that is pinched off. Check and see if where it is suppose to be is capt off too.

 

[95eclipser]

looks like a spec clutch pressure plate

 

[mantega4g63]

The vacuum is for my boost controller, shit keeps poppin out because my coupler to the turbo from the intake is shitty from the intake moving around so much. Going to mount the intake to the body so it stops movin then replace the coupler etc. going to get a 1g bov from the local junkyard and recirculate it then. Should i get a new intercooler or work with what ive got? Is this car a lost cause or the beginning of a lovely new chapter? Needs upholstry work and minor dent repairs too.

E/ thanks for the fast responses

 

[liquidsilver]

Your "fuel cut" may also be caused by your boost leaks. I had a similar problem with a leak at the throttle body felt like fuel cut. Fixed that and no more brick wall.

same here.

Pinpoint your boost leaks and fix those first. Get your 1gbov cheap and plug it back into your intake. Don't worry about the capped nipple leave it capped off. But make sure your factory solenoids are capped off to. This is below the intake and where the tube would have normally gone. Capping off the factory solenoid is one of the infamous "free mods" to get a little more boost out of your stock setup.

Looks pretty clean from the pics

 

[mantega4g63]

We sprayed the engine with carb cleaner, surprisngly the ic piping didnt act up but the throttle body did ONCE out of like 5 times, idk. Supposed to do it every time. Ill post more pics tomorrow, ive got to be at work in 8 hours :x

 

[PrimerPLus]

The vacuum is for my boost controller, shit keeps poppin out because my coupler to the turbo from the intake is shitty from the intake moving around so much. Going to mount the intake to the body so it stops movin then replace the coupler etc. going to get a 1g bov from the local junkyard and recirculate it then. Should i get a new intercooler or work with what ive got? Is this car a lost cause or the beginning of a lovely new chapter? Needs upholstry work and minor dent repairs too.

E/ thanks for the fast responses

Looks like it could be a good car. No pistons coming through the oil pan
As for the FMIC idk about JDMSport fmic. I hear most people using VSRF, Punishment Racing, etc.. If you are going to redo the piping maybe just get a kit? Otherwise check and see what your fmic is rated. If its a good one then just get piping for it. Dents can be repaired. You can also check ebay for body parts. If it was my car I would do a compression test, boost leak test and decide from there.

Also don't forget maintenance

 

[slonkey]

Yeah everyone has said about all just watch ## hoses and make sure u don't switch a few. I'm new 2. Same yr and looks and shocks but I have a greedy bov it recirclates it's a new chapter. And I'd leave the manifold just changed mine from a pacesetter to a stock cus it cracked 2 times in a year. (replaced 2 times before back to stock) and your ic I'd check if it's cracked. If it is I'd just weld it or something. Got mine for 4000 but it's not as cheap parts as urs. Bov, ic, and stuff like that. Good price tho.

 

[mantega4g63]

Looks like it could be a good car. No pistons coming through the oil pan
As for the FMIC idk about JDMSport fmic. I hear most people using VSRF, Punishment Racing, etc.. If you are going to redo the piping maybe just get a kit? Otherwise check and see what your fmic is rated. If its a good one then just get piping for it. Dents can be repaired. You can also check ebay for body parts. If it was my car I would do a compression test, boost leak test and decide from there.

Also don't forget maintenance

Did a compression test, 170 across the board. I couldnt ask for a smoother motor. Replaced the tranny fluid too, looked like it had never been replaced in all its 200k miles. Jdmsport is cheap ebay bullshit. The turbo and ic is jdmsport, some parts are cxracing and some obx. Its basically all cheap shit. Radiator is the same as punishment. Intercooler and turbo i dont trust as far as i can throw, going to check the turbo for shaftplay when i put the new coupler on and fix that vac hose. Got the dent i want repaired estimated at $325-415 with painting included. Hood has a few dings but id probably put a carbon fiber one on, not sure yet. Biggest priority is getting it running right.

 

[PrimerPLus]

170 very healthy
Yah I would keep her. Get the parts that are needed asap and then start to replace the ebay stoofz and have fun with it

 

[Pipnorcali]

4 fans???

I would have held out for another one I got mine for 3500 ....

At least your learn how to work on dsm's after this one

 

[mantega4g63]

4 fans???

I would have held out for another one I got mine for 3500 ....

At least your learn how to work on dsm's after this one

Ive heard of the4 fan setup before, it works nicely. The 2 on there to begin with just werent keeping me cool, especially in town and under boost. I waited for 5 months for a decent one, none were perfect of course but i loved this color heh (i know i couldve/shouldve waited but here i am). Any more suggestions on upgrade route, or if this car is worth keeping? Already posted on craigslist just to see what offers i get, after 1 day 4 people have shot me offers, one wants to buy it . Its obvious to me the last TEN owners have just beat it up and not gave a damn to truly maintain a good turbo car

 

[boost97gst]

Oh my.... You have alot of reading to do. You said your front seal is leaking?? I would addresss that first and foremost. Thats a TON of work right there bud. Im sorry to hear the price but thats a done deal so no need to beat it to death. well, atleast the car looks really nice. Beautiful shell. Just go through the faqs and address one problem at a time. It can be a bit overwhelming with these cars but youll get there.

 

[Pipnorcali]

The 4 fans is a band aid for another problem or they are weak fans I would start checking everything that coolant runs through.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

My GSX had tons of stupid shit done so it when I got it. It had exhaust piping for IC piping just to name something. I fabbed up new IC piping from pipe and couplers I had left over from my turbo Ranger build.

The items that are easy and cheap to replace or redo, I'd go ahead and do. It's a way to get more intimate with the car and to really get a sense of what the previous owner(s) have done.

 

[GSXTasy005]

I'd start with basic maintenance

* Plugs - NGK BPR6ES - gap them .028 - .032
* Wires - DSMGraveyard Plug Wires
* Check the air filter - replace if bad
* Take the PCV valve off and shake it, if you hear noise like there's a little metal piece in there, it's good. If it makes no noise, replace it. - DSMGraveyard PCV Valve
* Since you need to redo the front seal, I'd do a Balance Shaft Elmination Kit - DSMGraveyard BSEK
* Since you're in there you might as well redo the timing - DSMGraveyard Timing Kit
* Replace that front seal - DSMGraveyard Front Seal
* Don't forget the front case/oil pump gasket - DSMGraveyard Front Case Gasket And DSMGraveyard Oil Filter Housing Gasket
* The VRSF FMIC Kit you were talking about is VERY NICE, keep in mind you will need to do some trimming
* Good call on the 1G BOV, and you should recirculate it - DSMGraveyard BOV Recirc Tube
* Do a boost leak test to determine if you need to replace your throttle body gaskets - DSMGraveyard TB to Mani and DSMGraveyard TB to Elbow

You don't NEED to buy anything from The DSM Graveyard. I'd just recommend them, they seem to have the best prices and have most of the OEM stuff you'd need.

 

[mantega4g63]

The 4 fans is a band aid for another problem or they are weak fans I would start checking everything that coolant runs through.

i had air in my coolant lines before, replaced the hose and it seems fine now.
the 2 fans on it were cheap advance auto fans, so i put 2 more on :x didn't have the time to wait for a 2x fan in a shroud to be ordered, i was having a busy day. oldest thing on the cooling system is the water pump

Oh my.... You have alot of reading to do. You said your front seal is leaking?? I would addresss that first and foremost. Thats a TON of work right there bud. Im sorry to hear the price but thats a done deal so no need to beat it to death. well, atleast the car looks really nice. Beautiful shell. Just go through the faqs and address one problem at a time. It can be a bit overwhelming with these cars but youll get there.

I'd like to think you're thinking of the rear main seal, which requires the motor and possibly transmission to be removed. All I have to get out of the way to get to the front main seal is the timing belt. While I'm down there I plan on replacing the oil pump seal and maybe a new oil return line, i've seen dsmers with a similar problem caused by these issues.

Mind you these aren't the only issues I'm having, just the biggest concerns.


Some more pictures:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

pics of the intercooler piping (the coupler blew out on me, replaced with 4ply couplers not cheap shit)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

/edit just noticed coolant coming from the bottom hose to the radiator too, sweet

the professional jv weld job ;]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

more :

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

pic of dent on fender

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I'd start with basic maintenance

* Plugs - NGK BPR6ES - gap them .028 - .032
* Wires - DSMGraveyard Plug Wires
* Check the air filter - replace if bad
* Take the PCV valve off and shake it, if you hear noise like there's a little metal piece in there, it's good. If it makes no noise, replace it. - DSMGraveyard PCV Valve
* Since you need to redo the front seal, I'd do a Balance Shaft Elmination Kit - DSMGraveyard BSEK
* Since you're in there you might as well redo the timing - DSMGraveyard Timing Kit
* Replace that front seal - DSMGraveyard Front Seal
* Don't forget the front case/oil pump gasket - DSMGraveyard Front Case Gasket And DSMGraveyard Oil Filter Housing Gasket
* The VRSF FMIC Kit you were talking about is VERY NICE, keep in mind you will need to do some trimming
* Good call on the 1G BOV, and you should recirculate it - DSMGraveyard BOV Recirc Tube
* Do a boost leak test to determine if you need to replace your throttle body gaskets - DSMGraveyard TB to Mani and DSMGraveyard TB to Elbow

You don't NEED to buy anything from The DSM Graveyard. I'd just recommend them, they seem to have the best prices and have most of the OEM stuff you'd need.

gapped my ngk spark plugs when i did the compression test, .032

air filter has some damage to it from rubbing the frame, i need to get a support then i'm replacing the air filter and the coupler to the turbo where my boost controller vacuum line goes. doing this all at once so it will be done with.

makes sense i might have a boost leak near the throttle body, thats when it acted up when we did a test but only once out of 5 times.

all of those recommendations look excellent, i appreciate this post a lot. Currently i'm on the edge of selling it, if I can easily sell it then it's gone. If not, I mean I bought the car, why not fix it up? Someone has to love it. I just hate the path the guy before me was going down, ####ing o2 dump and venting to atmosphere, cheap shit cheap shit cheap shit. Just irritates me and I can't stop thinking about it every time I go to boost in a higher gear. Even my lower gear pulls are weak, it's basically all motor since the turbo has a boost leak and fuel cuts, might even be boost creeping .

 

[007jimmy]

You should replace the PCV hose back to the intake manifold and the breather on the side of you valve cover needs to be recirculated back to the intake pipe (pre turbo). Get rid of those piece of shit breather filters. I never seen a filter with the stock PCV valve before....

 

[mantega4g63]

You should replace the PCV hose back to the intake manifold and the breather on the side of you valve cover needs to be recirculated back to the intake pipe (pre turbo). Get rid of those piece of shit breather filters. I never seen a filter with the stock PCV valve before....

that hose from the IM is now being tapped for my boost gauge
the reason i changed all of this is because i had too much crank case pressure and it was blowing out my dipstick. if i revert it i would like to assume i would get the same problem. i'm going to get a catch can then recirculate back to the intake pipe

 

[007jimmy]

that hose from the IM is now being tapped for my boost gauge
the reason i changed all of this is because i had too much crank case pressure and it was blowing out my dipstick. if i revert it i would like to assume i would get the same problem. i'm going to get a catch can then recirculate back to the intake pipe

If you never replaced the PCV then this could be why. But even brand new OEM PCV can leak. Pick up a $3 USplastics check valve and install it between the intake manifold and the PCV. For the breather side Run a catchcan inline with the turbo intake pipe. The vacuum pull from the turbo spool will help pull out the pressure thats building in your motor. During vacuum (non boost/part throttle conditions) the PCV will open and pressure would be pulled out through the intake manifold. Not to mention you are letting in unmetered air which will screw your fuel trims up.

 

[mantega4g63]

If you never replaced the PCV then this could be why. But even brand new OEM PCV can leak. Pick up a $3 USplastics check valve and install it between the intake manifold and the PCV. For the breather side Run a catchcan inline with the turbo intake pipe. The vacuum pull from the turbo spool will he pull out the pressure thats building in your motor. During vacuum (non boost/part throttle conditions) the PCV will open and pressure would be pulled out through the intake manifold. Not to mention you are letting in unmetered air which will screw your fuel trims up.

this is basically what i tried to tell my mechanic, i read the entire pcv system for 4g63's post. i just checked the pcv valve, i heard rattling so i'm thankful for that much. where should i tap my boost gauge if i replace the im hose to the pcv system? my mechanic had the right idea, not the right approach

i wish i knew where the hell to start, i guess with my pcv system then intercooler/air filter

 

[GSXTasy005]

i had air in my coolant lines before, replaced the hose and it seems fine now.
the 2 fans on it were cheap advance auto fans, so i put 2 more on :x didn't have the time to wait for a 2x fan in a shroud to be ordered, i was having a busy day. oldest thing on the cooling system is the water pump

/edit just noticed coolant coming from the bottom hose to the radiator too, sweet

The air in the coolant lines seems to worry me a little. Do you have a coolant leak anywhere else? You should check, I'd hate for you to keep filling up your cooling system. They have tools you can rent I think, they basically put some compressed air into the cooling system and let you see leaks. The tool looks similar this: Mityvac MV4560 - Cooling System Test Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts I'm not sure where you can rent them though, I don't have Advance auto around here, but they might have it.

Mind you these aren't the only issues I'm having, just the biggest concerns.

Can you post a list of all of the issues you're having, I'll try to see if I can help with them.

all of those recommendations look excellent, i appreciate this post a lot. Currently i'm on the edge of selling it, if I can easily sell it then it's gone. If not, I mean I bought the car, why not fix it up? Someone has to love it. I just hate the path the guy before me was going down, ####ing o2 dump and venting to atmosphere, cheap shit cheap shit cheap shit. Just irritates me and I can't stop thinking about it every time I go to boost in a higher gear. Even my lower gear pulls are weak, it's basically all motor since the turbo has a boost leak and fuel cuts, might even be boost creeping .

Thanks! I try to be as helpful as possible

I would like to see you keep the car, you seem to be the first person to care about it's well being!

that hose from the IM is now being tapped for my boost gauge
the reason i changed all of this is because i had too much crank case pressure and it was blowing out my dipstick. if i revert it i would like to assume i would get the same problem. i'm going to get a catch can then recirculate back to the intake pipe

I think this is a bad idea. Read this - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html EDIT: I see in your previous post that you already read this, I started writing this before you posted. I'll leave it here for reference for anyone else following this thread though.

If your dipstick is popping out, there might be other issues. Perhaps bad valve stem seals, those might not show up on a compression test. It's easy to check if they are still good or not. Just poke them and if they still feel rubbery, they are (more than likely) still good. If they feel hard, replace them. They are pretty cheap to replace, but the job requires some patience. - DSMGraveyard Valve Stem Seals

VFAQ Valve Stem Seal Replacement

 

[mantega4g63]

The air in the coolant lines seems to worry me a little. Do you have a coolant leak anywhere else? You should check, I'd hate for you to keep filling up your cooling system. They have tools you can rent I think, they basically put some compressed air into the cooling system and let you see leaks. The tool looks similar this: Mityvac MV4560 - Cooling System Test Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts I'm not sure where you can rent them though, I don't have Advance auto around here, but they might have it.



Can you post a list of all of the issues you're having, I'll try to see if I can help with them.



Thanks! I try to be as helpful as possible

I would like to see you keep the car, you seem to be the first person to care about it's well being!



I think this is a bad idea. Read this - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html EDIT: I see in your previous post that you already read this, I started writing this before you posted. I'll leave it here for reference for anyone else following this thread though.

If your dipstick is popping out, there might be other issues. Perhaps bad valve stem seals, those might not show up on a compression test. It's easy to check if they are still good or not. Just poke them and if they still feel rubbery, they are (more than likely) still good. If they feel hard, replace them. They are pretty cheap to replace, but the job requires some patience. - DSMGraveyard Valve Stem Seals

VFAQ Valve Stem Seal Replacement

i have new viton valve seals on my head with 500 miles on it. it was popping out especially since the part you pull the stick out with broke off, i went to the local junkyard and grabbed one from a 3g (all they had) and machined it down to fit mine perfectly. i know that won't be an issue anymore, just for the moment it was killing me, happened twice. only other issues are straight replacing shit, missing spare tire and trunk bottom, the hatch struts or whatever are bad, I WANT LEATHER SEATS , has some body dents that will need to be bondo'd and painted over. some bad speakers also, and i want a good alarm system. get paid tomorrow, i was supposed to have a badass 4/20 but i'm sure most of my check will go to fixing my car. missing a sideskirt on the passenger side also, window tint is falling apart so i'd get it stripped and probably leave it stock


about to go take my fender off and replace the door hinges so it stops slapping the frame, shits killing me. had to get some junkyard ones and spray paint them. afk an hour ><

 

[GSXTasy005]

this is basically what i tried to tell my mechanic, i read the entire pcv system for 4g63's post. i just checked the pcv valve, i heard rattling so i'm thankful for that much. where should i tap my boost gauge if i replace the im hose to the pcv system? my mechanic had the right idea, not the right approach

i wish i knew where the hell to start, i guess with my pcv system then intercooler/air filter

You can T your boost guage off of your Fuel Pressure regulator line (Before the solenoid, if you still have it.)