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punx4life85

Probationary Member
29
0
Jun 20, 2007
kansas city, Kansas
i bought this talon awd for 1200 dollars, a week after i got it the timing belt had the teeth ripped off by the crank gear........ spent all night changing (and learning how to change) the belts (went ahead and changed them all since i was there) and the car ran fine. then the car starts to overheat. i changed the thermo, ran a switch to my fans to have them on all the time. it fixed it........ for a minute. starts over heating again and blows lower radiator hose. i changed that and flushed the radiator cause the lights came on for oil in the coolent. (sorry guys, just want to give a step-by-step of what im dealing with) then the waterpump starts leaking. changed waterpump and retimed it. perfecty i would like to add. ohh my god did the car run great. i drove it for about 15 minutes and went home. this morning i wake up and go to drop off my girl at work. as im pulling in it starts overheating again. i figured it was i had put just water in till i could get some antifreeze. turns out the hose that runs from the thermo housing blew. i pulled over and fixed that too. as i finish fixing the hose, i jump back in and it starts runnin real rough with sugnificant power loss. i figure i will limp it home. made it about half way when i heard the god forsaken sound of clanking, followed by death. i never lost oil pressure. and i cant unscrew the #1 sparkplug.:beatentodeath: any ideas of what happened?
 
Sadly what happened is that it takes about $3K of parts & A HELLUVA lotta work to get the average 91AWD to be a dependable daily driver - You certainly gave it a good shot but these cars are MERCILESS - Completely freaking MERCILESS & it sounds like you MAY have run yours hot one time too many - Plan on just jerking the Motor as 'CLANKING" aint good - When you mention Water in Oil this sounds like MULTIPLE Bearing failureS, emphasis on the PLURAL there when I refer to Bearings - If it makes you feel any better your Block MAY still be good & your Head MAY still be servicable.
 
thats what im praying for.... the block being ok.... i never kept running the car after it started overheating.... whatever is wrong its at the #1 cylinder.... from what ive observed i think a valve is messed up.... the sparkplug is stuck and i had just replaced them about a week before.... almost like its caught on the valve itself. well at least it gives me a chance to get the head off and look at it........... and cheap is always good but im not gunna scrap this car, i love this thing (first turbo and awd car). 272's and full port and polish..... uhh huh....... sounds nice.
 
If your spark plug won't come out, you most likely warped your head when it overheated. Valves shouldn't ever cause a plug not to come out.
 
If you had to change a timing belt, Im surprised you dont have any damage to your head.

Youve got some work to get that thing on the road. Id pull the head, have the surfaces checked, throw on new HG and retime her up. Fun.

the brake and batt dummy lights i think....... not sure which 2. but the 2 mean theres oil in the coolent.... thats what i was told..... and confirmed in the overflow tank.

Whered you learn that? I cant see any way the engine could tell whats oil and whats coolant and when they would be mixed.
 
the brake and batt dummy lights i think....... not sure which 2. but the 2 mean theres oil in the coolent.... thats what i was told..... and confirmed in the overflow tank.

Whatever source gave you that, completely disregard in all future automotive consultations. Multiple warning lights in DSMs can often indicate a failing alternator. There is a warning light for low coolant, and an idiot light for no oil pressure, but nothing about the two crossing systems.
 
It sounds like your head was overheated one too many times......and it's cooked.
 
(this post is where i got that...... its labled "oil in coolent" marked 1g)
New Member


Car: 92 Eclipse GST
From: San Jose, California
Region: NorCal
Registered: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
Trader Rating: (0)
Reputation: Oil in coolant

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Hey guys,
Recently my dash lights came on.
I have the battery light and brake light on when the e brake is disengaged. From searching online and testing this appears to be my alternator thats bad. My mechanic confirmed this.

The other lights are my radiator light and check engine light the reason for this is oil in my coolant.
So far the mechanic has removed my head and head gasket had it tested at a machine shop it came back in good working order. My head gasket is also new.
I also had him check the oil cooler that too he says is ok.
Now he says it might be the Turbo. I have the stock turbo 1992 Eclipse GST
I should know tomorrow if this is it.

If its not what else could it be?
Offline
 
i got the same thing...... they're on real low, i can only see them on at night.... and like the guy said " oil in the coolant" my overflow tank looked like god blew a snott rocket in it. im not tryin to disagree that this guy might be wrong.... but this post is floating around and if he is wrong it should be removed...... please tell me more good sir
 
Those lights don't come on just because there's oil in coolant/coolant in oil. They're on probably from other failures, probably causing the mix. Or just on due to multiple other failures, since 1G's are getting old.

Hey D, what's that light with the carousel on it? ;)
 
do you think the head is gone? should i just pick up another one? or is it possibly fixable? i wanna know what im getting into or if i should pay a shop to do it.

ohh yeah and im trying to unthread the #1 sparkplug, it keeps getting tighter.
 
Have you ever had the plugs out before this all happened? If not than it could have just been cross threaded by the previous owner and not part of your issue. Since the car is down anyway I would leave the plug in place and pull the head off. You wouldn't want to damage the head even more by stripping the plug hole. It sounds like it's time to just pull the entire engine and rebuild it. You can't really trust these cars with all the would-be mechanics messing around with them anyway. You'd be better off just getting it over with now so that you know everything is assembled right.

And BUCK I'm going to have to disagree with you about needing 3k to make a 91 reliable. I only paid $200 for my 175k mile 90 TSi and I've driven it (very hard) 11k a year since I bought it 3 years ago. All it needed was a trans ($200) when I got it and I haven't done anything more than change the oil for maintenance. I just recently did a t-belt, tensioner, and water pump because it was bothering me that i didn't know when they were changed last. These cars can be very reliable when taken care of properly. My case may be a fluke but then again the previous owner of punx4life85's car probably never took care of it and pawned it off before it died.
 
You may have broken a valve (the clanking noise), which hit the spark plug and screwed up the end of it. Which is why it won't come out. I suggest you pull the head before trying to remove the plug. So you don't mess up the head anymore.
 
Definetly, Pull the head and find out what is wrong with it. Don't try to remove the plug anymore because you could have broken a valve or worse yet warped that head. You may be able to pull the v/c and see if you have a broken valve, but I would still pull the head, as you probably will anyway. Have fun
 
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