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Originally posted by larryd
just be careful with the nitrous. Your falling into the land of oz where everyone thinks strapping on 100 shot of nitrous is no big deal. Its easy to install, its easy to use, its also easy to blow your engine into itty bitty pieces.. Read up in the nitrous forum thoroughly before you attempt to run nitrous for your own good :)

remember, I said exactly:
Originally posted by ZSPTurbo

I didnt say that its easy, i.e. strap it on and theres 100 more hp,

I said basically what u just told me, LOL.

oh, and ladies and gentlemen, I present with you MY TOTALLY REVISED PLAN, with questions afterwards:



Power 1:

Downpipe - 175
QTP exhaust cutout - 170
Intake - 150 (get 3 inch, and silicon coupler reducer so it fits stock turbo)
Port the hell out of my O2 housing

Cost:


Power 2:
AEM EMS - 1200
GM Boost Control Solenoid (GMPartsDirect.com) - 10
2g knock sensor
Gagues
EGT Gague
A/F Gague
Boost Gague
Fuel Pressure Gague
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump - 100
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Cost:


Power 3:
ADFX FMIC - 925
Some Gagues should go here... which ones?

Cost:


Cool Shtuff:
custom fiberglass fender flares / pulled fenders
17x9 wheels (buddy club P1 Racing, 17 lbs)
steering wheel - 200
shift knob - 50
Pedals - 50
custom vented hood

Cost:


Power 4:

Nitrous Express Stage One EFI Single Nozzle Kit - 775
Injectors - 450

Cost: 1225


Tranny:
Sent off to TRE for:
4 spider center diff
Shift rails
Steel shift forks
Double synchro 2nd
TRE spec 1st and 2nd gears
Oil magnet
Clutch (which one?)

Cost: 1700


Power 5:
T3/T4, 50 trim stage 3, .48 housing - 550
TiAL 35mm wastegate, .8 bar spring - 200
Wastegate dumptube - 50
Exhaust Manifold - 400
O2 housing - 250

Extras - 200

Cost: 1400


Power 6:
HKS 272 Cams-570
Crower Retainers and valve springs - 250
Crower Valves - 270
Crower adjustable cam sprockets - 165
Pistons (95+/Evo/JE/Ross)

Cost:


Whenever!
rewelded shifter (to make it short throw)
Clutch
Sway bars
Strut bars
Coilovers
Sheetmetal Intake Manifold
How much?
Gagues
harness
Maby?
Crower rods - 700


now here are my questions-
where should I put the nitrous? I would like to do it before the tranny, but Im not sure what would be best... between 1 and 2 or between step 2 and the cool shtuff?

my other question is-
what gagues do I need ONLY for tuning? whatever those gagues are, I can get rid of the actual gague, just get the sensor, and display the gague on my laptop during tuning.

my final question-
I have heard about converting to an MAP sensor.... what all is involved in that, and how much will I benefit from it? where would it go best in my order?
 
If I were you man, I would hold off on the nitrous until you've maxed out your turbo and your comfortable tuning. It does cool it down but I'm pretty sure nitrous = more fuel, something the stock fuel can't deliver. Get the basic bolt ons in place, and a good fuel system. Also, I think a FMIC on a stock turbo actually loses power due to pressure drop.

Personally it sounds to me like your going for the bling bling factor more than speed. Nothing wrong with that, if that's what you want. But if your going for speed then I'd study the guide, its by far the quickest way to power. Your only like 15 right? How are you gonna get the money for this stuff?
 
Originally posted by crashed97tsi
If I were you man, I would hold off on the nitrous until you've maxed out your turbo and your comfortable tuning. It does cool it down but I'm pretty sure nitrous = more fuel, something the stock fuel can't deliver. Get the basic bolt ons in place, and a good fuel system. Also, I think a FMIC on a stock turbo actually loses power due to pressure drop.

Personally it sounds to me like your going for the bling bling factor more than speed. Nothing wrong with that, if that's what you want. But if your going for speed then I'd study the guide, its by far the quickest way to power. Your only like 15 right? How are you gonna get the money for this stuff?

Im 16, and I have plenty of money.... I just broke up with my GF, and dont plan on getting another any time soon (dating SUCKS!), and I have a really sweet job, so I have plenty of cash.

also, I hadnt thought about the pressure drop... I better do the FMIC after the EMS and raised boost.... thanks for pointing that out for me.... also, now that I think about it, I should put the injectors along with the nitrous.

I'll just edit the old post with the new list
 
couple things..

you dont need an EGT and Air/Fuel gauge, one or the other.. no need for both..

after the fmic you said more gauges, you dont need anymore gauges.. all you need is boost and egt..

on your t3/t4 50trim, i strongly suggest the .63 ARvs te .48 as the power difference is ALOT and spoolup isnt affected to badly..


when you do pistons, if your intent is do rods later you should do them at the same time..

lastly on the nitrous.. you realize with the t3/t4 50 trim with a .63 AR and stage 3 wheel has been known to make 400whp on pump gas on some occasions.. I seriously think you need to lose the hole idea of nitrous and just concentrate on the turbo..

:)
 
Originally posted by larryd
couple things..

you dont need an EGT and Air/Fuel gauge, one or the other.. no need for both..

thank you :)

Originally posted by larryd

after the fmic you said more gauges, you dont need anymore gauges.. all you need is boost and egt..

well, what I meant by "more gagues" is that I would relocate some of the above gagues down to that step. but if all I need is the boost and EGT, then thats great... however, I have heard that there is a need for fuel pressure gague when running nitrous... is that true? also, what about water/oil temp/pressure? do I need one of those gagues? If so, when do I need it in the order? is the purpose of the temp gagues just to keep from overheating?

Originally posted by larryd

on your t3/t4 50trim, i strongly suggest the .63 ARvs te .48 as the power difference is ALOT and spoolup isnt affected to badly..

Well, I might autoX, so I think I might stay with the .48... If I decide I want more power, I can always switch to the .63 for like, 300 bucks.


Originally posted by larryd

lastly on the nitrous.. you realize with the t3/t4 50 trim with a .63 AR and stage 3 wheel has been known to make 400whp on pump gas on some occasions.. I seriously think you need to lose the hole idea of nitrous and just concentrate on the turbo..

:)

Sorry, I like the nitrous, and Im running it...

oh, idea! I can run the .63, and use the nitrous to spool it faster... hmmmm, for autoX that would require some fancy computer tricks... oh well, I've got time to think, ask and decide :)
 
I think youve watched FnF to much.. Nitrous junky :)

Most DSMers get away with just a EGT and Boost gauge, I have an Oil Pressure gauge as well due to the fact that I had many oil problems, youll want a fuel pressure gauge as well after you get the AFPR and a larger fuel pump but that can install on the fuel rail in the engine bay.
 
Originally posted by larryd
I think youve watched FnF to much.. Nitrous junky :)

Most DSMers get away with just a EGT and Boost gauge, I have an Oil Pressure gauge as well due to the fact that I had many oil problems, youll want a fuel pressure gauge as well after you get the AFPR and a larger fuel pump but that can install on the fuel rail in the engine bay.

dont get me started on FnF.... just dont. :D

anyways, you didnt say anything about the temp gagues or water pressure gague... are those not needed? and also, do many dsms have that oil problem? if they do, I'd like to avoid any problems and just get the oil pressure gague before I NEED it.
 
oil pressure gauge is good...get that for sure...always good to know where ur oils at, oil starvation succs..been there :-/ ...

map sensor is basically an "internal" sensor vs. our "external" sensor...if im not mistaken its in the throttle body..IMHO not worth doing..money well spent else where...

gluck w/ ur setup...hope u get it ironed out, the guys here at tuners are great for this kind of advice..pz
 
Originally posted by onegee
oil pressure gauge is good...get that for sure...always good to know where ur oils at, oil starvation succs..been there :-/ ...

map sensor is basically an "internal" sensor vs. our "external" sensor...if im not mistaken its in the throttle body..IMHO not worth doing..money well spent else where...

gluck w/ ur setup...hope u get it ironed out, the guys here at tuners are great for this kind of advice..pz

ok, cool... the oil pressure gague is going in, and Im gonna forget about MAP untill I would have some sort of use for it, I.E. after the turbo.
 
my dad is evil.







I just got off the phone with him....












I cant raise the horsepower till Im 17.












f, u, c, k.












Now I gotta rearrange everything.
 
How exactly is he supposed to know? My parents would "prefer" i didnt mod my car. Didnt stop me from doing it, just stopped me from telling them. My dad knows a good bit about cars, but he didnt know what i had done to it until i told him.
 
Originally posted by Antilles
How exactly is he supposed to know? My parents would "prefer" i didnt mod my car. Didnt stop me from doing it, just stopped me from telling them. My dad knows a good bit about cars, but he didnt know what i had done to it until i told him.


well, there are a couple problems this brings up... of course I can still raise my hp, I just cant do major upgrades that will have my car down for an entire weekend or longer... also, Im not sure if I can do stuff like a loud ass exhaust... he might notice that :) also, I cant do anything too obvious under the hood, or else he will notice that... I can do an intake, I guess, as long as I leave the cover on, or come upp with some creative way to cover up... of course the nitrous is delayed... damnit. but the EMS and tranny are up on the list :) I'll post a new list tomorrow :)
 
ok, heres the list... it was easier to make than I thought:

sneaky 1:
Downpipe - 175
QTP exhaust cutout - 170
Port the hell out of my O2 housing
Forced Performance 4" Intake - 150 (get silicon coupler reducer so it fits stock turbo.... also figure out how to keep dad from noticing)

let 'em know 1:
custom fiberglass fender flares / pulled fenders
17x9 wheels (buddy club P1 Racing, 17 lbs)
steering wheel - 200
shift knob - 50
Pedals - 50
custom vented hood

sneaky 2:
Cams (HKS 272?)-570
Crower Retainers and valve springs - 250
Crower Valves - 270
Crower adjustable cam sprockets - 165

Will he let me do it?:
AEM EMS - 1200
GM Boost Control Solenoid (GMPartsDirect.com) - 10
2g knock sensor
Gagues
Oil Pressure Gague
Boost Gague (peak hold?)
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump - 100
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

let 'em know 2:
Sent off to TRE for:
4 spider center diff
Shift rails
Steel shift forks
Double synchro 2nd
TRE spec 1st and 2nd gears
Oil magnet
Clutch (which one?)

coming out of the closet:
ADFX FMIC - 925
Nitrous Express Stage One EFI Single Nozzle Kit - 775
Nitrous pressure gague
Injectors - 450

big power:
T3/T4, 50 trim stage 3, .48 housing - 550
TiAL 35mm wastegate, .8 bar spring - 200
Wastegate dumptube - 50
Exhaust Manifold - 400
O2 housing - 250
Extras - 200
 
Originally posted by ZSPTurbo
ok, heres the list... it was easier to make than I thought:

sneaky 1:
Downpipe - 175
QTP exhaust cutout - 170
Port the hell out of my O2 housing
Forced Performance 4" Intake - 150 (get silicon coupler reducer so it fits stock turbo.... also figure out how to keep dad from noticing)

let 'em know 1:
custom fiberglass fender flares / pulled fenders
17x9 wheels (buddy club P1 Racing, 17 lbs)
steering wheel - 200
shift knob - 50
Pedals - 50
custom vented hood

sneaky 2:
Cams (HKS 272?)-570
Crower Retainers and valve springs - 250
Crower Valves - 270
Crower adjustable cam sprockets - 165

Will he let me do it?:
AEM EMS - 1200
GM Boost Control Solenoid (GMPartsDirect.com) - 10
2g knock sensor
Gagues
Oil Pressure Gague
Boost Gague (peak hold?)
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump - 100
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

let 'em know 2:
Sent off to TRE for:
4 spider center diff
Shift rails
Steel shift forks
Double synchro 2nd
TRE spec 1st and 2nd gears
Oil magnet
Clutch (which one?)

coming out of the closet:
ADFX FMIC - 925
Nitrous Express Stage One EFI Single Nozzle Kit - 775
Nitrous pressure gague
Injectors - 450

big power:
T3/T4, 50 trim stage 3, .48 housing - 550
TiAL 35mm wastegate, .8 bar spring - 200
Wastegate dumptube - 50
Exhaust Manifold - 400
O2 housing - 250
Extras - 200

1. I hope this is not a chronological list.
2. Can I borrow some of this 17yr old cash flow you've got going on?
 
Originally posted by ZSPTurbo




oh, idea! I can run the .63, and use the nitrous to spool it faster... hmmmm, for autoX that would require some fancy computer tricks... oh well, I've got time to think, ask and decide :)

If this is what you want the juice for, I highly recommend you to look into the Venom kit. If moneys not an issue that is. It has a few differnt spray modes, one of which you can set spray amounts by rpm range. Meaning you can use it when you are lagging.
 
Originally posted by LandoAWD


1. I hope this is not a chronological list.
2. Can I borrow some of this 17yr old cash flow you've got going on?

1) the only restriction is that I cant raise the HP in any way that my dad would notice untill I turn 17. It can be absolutely rearranged in any way besides that. but, I do want to get the AEM EMS, and not any other electronics, which means I have to get it early (to raise boost and get my other gadgets)
2) 16. and this is a plan that would span an entire year.
 
okay, heres a way to mod w/o getting busted and have pretty good results:

1) free mods

2) boost gauge (tell him the stock boost gauge isn't accurate and this will prevent you from blowing the motor)

3)get a new air filter, ur a 2g correct? get the K&N..it'll help.

4)Fuel Pump (he cant check unless hes REALLY serious about you not modding...it'll be a b!tch to check it and he probably wont go thru the trouble)

5)boost controller and raise the boost, find a cheap manual for now (easy to hide in the engine bay, just spray paint it black)

6)then get the Downpipe/Exhaust...(say ur old one is kinda rusting and this will help w/ emissions type of BS)

that should make ur car a bit faster...just trying to help you out w/ the best mods for the most stealth-est look...hope it works out Good luck
 
Originally posted by onegee
okay, heres a way to mod w/o getting busted and have pretty good results:

1) free mods

2) boost gauge (tell him the stock boost gauge isn't accurate and this will prevent you from blowing the motor)

3)get a new air filter, ur a 2g correct? get the K&N..it'll help.

4)Fuel Pump (he cant check unless hes REALLY serious about you not modding...it'll be a b!tch to check it and he probably wont go thru the trouble)

6)then get the Downpipe/Exhaust...(5)boost controller and raise the boost, find a cheap manual for now (easy to hide in the engine bay, just spray paint it black)

say ur old one is kinda rusting and this will help w/ emissions type of BS)

that should make ur car a bit faster...just trying to help you out w/ the best mods for the most stealth-est look...hope it works out Good luck

Im 1ga gsx...

Im gonna take what you said into and try to incorperate it with what I have so far.
 
cool..so the K&N should be cheaper for you then...LOL...but yeah good luck man.. pz
 
ok a few problems i see here not even with your set-up. you say you have a good job at 15, with school? did you actually add all this up I mean you have more there then the average man with no girlfriend, a full time and part time job, and no life can afford. you say you can't get an exhaust, well i then suggest you quit now, your not going to run that turbo with stock exhaust and intake. This list just doesn't add up. I seriously suggest you listen to some of these ppl they really do know what they are talking about believe. nitrous isn't all what its made to be. you can't just drive down the street and push buttons. Not to be an ass or anyhting but i suggest to come down to earth here or wake up, one or the other.
 
Originally posted by talonts1
ok a few problems i see here not even with your set-up. you say you have a good job at 15, with school? did you actually add all this up I mean you have more there then the average man with no girlfriend, a full time and part time job, and no life can afford. you say you can't get an exhaust, well i then suggest you quit now, your not going to run that turbo with stock exhaust and intake. This list just doesn't add up. I seriously suggest you listen to some of these ppl they really do know what they are talking about believe. nitrous isn't all what its made to be. you can't just drive down the street and push buttons. Not to be an ass or anyhting but i suggest to come down to earth here or wake up, one or the other.

ok, this is the last time Im gonna say this.... including the sale of my current car, I will have 8000.... I make upwards 10 dollars an hour... I have no GF, and I only have to pay 1/2 my gas/insurance. I can afford it.

also, you arent paying attention to what I said. I am getting an exhaust... Im getting better than exhaust, a QTP (www.quicktimeperformance.com). this way my exhaust will flow better than your 3 inch turbo back, cause I will be releasing the exhaust right out the top of the downpipe, when racing. also, shmuck, I have intake on there, and when I get that turbo, Im gonna be running a 4 inch FP intake... pay closer attention.

not to be an ass or anything but I suggest that if you are gonna give someone crap, you know what your giving them crap about.
 
And you live with your parents and don't have to pay rent, right? OK, so fix up the car really good to prepare it for when you're allowed to up the power, and do all the suspension and wheel upgrades, too. A 1G should have plenty of miles on it, so there are lots of excuses to "fix" stuff, if you know what I mean. Maybe get a logger so you know how to tune when the time comes. Go to the track a few times so you learn how to drive it. There is plenty to improve on without going wild on the power upgrades.
 
Originally posted by ZSPTurbo


ok, this is the last time Im gonna say this.... including the sale of my current car, I will have 8000.... I make upwards 10 dollars an hour... I have no GF, and I only have to pay 1/2 my gas/insurance. I can afford it.

also, you arent paying attention to what I said. I am getting an exhaust... Im getting better than exhaust, a QTP (www.quicktimeperformance.com). this way my exhaust will flow better than your 3 inch turbo back, cause I will be releasing the exhaust right out the top of the downpipe, when racing. also, shmuck, I have intake on there, and when I get that turbo, Im gonna be running a 4 inch FP intake... pay closer attention.

not to be an ass or anything but I suggest that if you are gonna give someone crap, you know what your giving them crap about.

Before you go buy a system like you are mentioning here, maybe read up on boost creep:thumb:
 
Originally posted by LandoAWD


Before you go buy a system like you are mentioning here, maybe read up on boost creep:thumb:

feel free to educate me.
 
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