Boost leak/misfire

[Bluefire16]

Ok so ive had threads in the past to fix my problem, i just did a boost looke and found 2 of them, i spent 30 min to an hour looking for leaks and got them all. So i take the car out after, do some pulls its fine. Next day i get the jerk, under WOT on the way to school. Park the car 3 hour later come out and go WOT, nothing. Now today, i go WOT nothing.... I DONT NO anymore. What do you guys think?

 

[fresh83]

im havin a simular problem , i got a misfireing cylinder error about a week ago and now from what everyone is telling me i have a boost leak also ...im having someone who deals with dsms alot take a look at it today, if i find a solution to mine ill pm u

 

[B0oSteD95gsx]

im also having misfire problems got a code pm0100 random misfire im told more than likely a cas sensor but wont know till we get everything back together,but im sure there was no boost leak just fixed it 2 weeks before i started misfiring

 

[No_Skillz]

Do your BLT again. This time spray everything with soapy water, so you can find ALL of them. The system should be able to be pressurized up to 20psi and slowly leak back down to 0 in 10 seconds or more.

 

[mikelv]

Ok so ive had threads in the past to fix my problem, i just did a boost looke and found 2 of them, i spent 30 min to an hour looking for leaks and got them all. So i take the car out after, do some pulls its fine. Next day i get the jerk, under WOT on the way to school. Park the car 3 hour later come out and go WOT, nothing. Now today, i go WOT nothing.... I DONT NO anymore. What do you guys think?

First off, I'm not going to slam you but someone on here most definitely will. Learn to use proper grammar, spelling, and punctuation when posting in the tech forum. It will help someone better understand your question, allowing us to help provide an accurate and detailed answer. It would help if you provided more details regarding the symptoms, or changes in the behavior of the car since you modified something, ect...

Ok, so I understand you've run a boost leak test because you've had leaky boost in the past, causing the car to shudder, or go rich on you? Well as others have suggested, I will reiterate. You need to ensure you conducted the test properly and have removed all the leaks. The best way is to use the soap and water trick. Here are a few links to get you in the groove with things.

Boost not strong enough:

1000 AAQ - Common problems & fixes


Car stumbles/Miss under WOT


1000 AAQ - Common problems & fixes


Also, ensure you run a search first. I know it sound old, but it's true. Over 90% of the common problems can be solved by conducting an accurate search and taking the time to actually read it. Good Luck, keep up posted with more detail.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

Right quick, check plug wires make sure there not loose or worn.

 

[Bluefire16]

Ha "slam me", honestly im not to worried, im getting an A in my college english class so i think im doing alright, im not really worried about my grammar always on the internet and plus I was in a hurry and was typing fast. Neways, like i said i have done a boost leak. I could not find a single one, and yes i used soapy water. If you read i said, the car was fine for 1 day, the next day it jerked on me when WOT. 4 hours later after class, i did another pull and it did not jerk. IT has been fine for another day now, numerous pulls and no jerking. There were no changes in anything to the car, still boosting at 15psi. I put new plugs in a couple hundred miles ago gapped correctly, and wires aren't bad. Im running bpr6es. Is that enough info?

 

[mikelv]

Ha "slam me", honestly im not to worried, im getting an A in my college english class so i think im doing alright, im not really worried about my grammar always on the internet and plus I was in a hurry and was typing fast. Neways, like i said i have done a boost leak. I could not find a single one, and yes i used soapy water. If you read i said, the car was fine for 1 day, the next day it jerked on me when WOT. 4 hours later after class, i did another pull and it did not jerk. IT has been fine for another day now, numerous pulls and no jerking. There were no changes in anything to the car, still boosting at 15psi. I put new plugs in a couple hundred miles ago gapped correctly, and wires aren't bad. Im running bpr6es. Is that enough info?

Grammar rules are in place for a reason, not to test your intelligence level. The moderators of this site work hard to make this a professional and creditable information source in the community. The end state here is yes, for you to solve your mechanical issues, but moreover, for someone else to be able to come along and use your thread as a reference to help solve a similar problem without worrying if it's creditable information or not. I'm not concerned with your College English GPA, heck I'm an Army Grunt! What I am concerned with, (and that's the only reason why I bring it up) is the creditability and professionalism of our community. I'm not in a position to give warnings, I'm only giving you a heads up that I know there are quite a few people who will.

Anyways, yes thank you for the information, but not the poor punctuation or sarcasm. Most of your problems could be atmospheric conditions changing, along with either poor tuning, or something you've looked over that you're convinced you haven't. If it comes and goes, then either something is on the verge of going, or it's something that fluctuates with changing conditions.

My suggestions stand:

BPR7ES NGK Spark Plugs
Read Symptomatic causes in the VFAQ's
Boost Leak Testing

You need to research some more, and keep learning. If you're not interested in my help, by all means no problem, I don't need to spend my free time helping you for nothing. If you want to know what is going on, let's do it. Just respect the rules of the site, that's all I'm saying.

 

[Bluefire16]

How much could temperature affect it? Say if it was 10 to 20 degrees colder? That is the only think i can think of, the car also has a stock tune. I have not tuned it at all.

 

[fresh83]

im thinkin temp might have something big to do with our problem, my car seemed to run a lil better durring the day today , and the night it was happening it was real cold .

 

[No_Skillz]

BPR7ES NGK Spark Plugs

I agree with all points but I have to raise a flag at the plugs. 7s are only needed at 20+psi. 6s have been shown to be superior at lower boost levels such as 15psi.

OP: Was this "jerk" a loss in power, a stutter, or like someone took a sharp jab at the brakes?

 

[mikelv]

OP: Was this "jerk" a loss in power, a stutter, or like someone took a sharp jab at the brakes?

I was thinking fuel cut or something along those lines, but I doubt it, he's not really running anything big. What are you getting at here?

This feels like one of those things where if we sat in the car, we'd figure it out in about 3 minutes.

I'm still sticking to what I said earlier.

Did we ask you about CEL? Are you getting any codes from the ECU?

 

[knochgoon24]

Check your spark plug gaps. I just pulled mine (seriously just 5 min ago) and my plug gaps are .042", .035", .035", and .038". They were all gapped at .028" in September when I last checked.

I was having a stuttering problem any time I tried to give it more than 10psi. We'll see if switching to NGK BPR7ES gapped to .028" from those Champion RN9YC (Champions equivalent to NGK BPR6ES) helps at all. I'm hoping to be able to turn the boost back up to 15psi or more (I'll see with the wideband).

 

[knochgoon24]

I don't think you can attribute ALL that to the spark plugs. Chances are, he was starting to lean out. And at 17psi, he was starting to hit the point where most people switch from 6's to 7's.

Oh, and I'm sure you know, but those aren't BPR6ES. They're BPR6EKN and are actually what's called for in the owners and shop manuals. The BPR6ES only have one electrode while the BPR6EKN have two.

And just because it isn't posted on here enough http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/233421-spark-plug-faq.html

 

[big_d]

This is a bpr6es NGK spark plug.

 

[big_d]

^^ good call Wes

 

[No_Skillz]

Dude, attributing his blown motor to spark plugs is like blaming your computer for getting a porno virus. That has got to be user error, not hardware malfunction. This is not even a topic that is controversial, using 6s at under 20psi is the standard.

If you would like to present evidence to the contrary, I would very much like to hear it in a different thread. Lets not get off topic here.

OP, if your symptoms haven't returned, then I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless it's becoming more of a problem.

 

[mikelv]

Dude, attributing his blown motor to spark plugs is like blaming your computer for getting a porno virus. That has got to be user error, not hardware malfunction. This is not even a topic that is controversial, using 6s at under 20psi is the standard.

If you would like to present evidence to the contrary, I would very much like to hear it in a different thread. Lets not get off topic here.

Agreed, thread edited, matter has no relevance here.

OP, if your symptoms haven't returned, then I wouldn't be too concerned about it unless it's becoming more of a problem.

+1 as well. I would attribute this concern to a variance in atmospheric conditions. Let us know if you find any more issues worth addressing. Hope we could help, sorry to stray so much.

 

[Bluefire16]

I think its due to the cold weather and combustion. When the days are warmer for example 35-40 degrees *F the car is running fine. If its say 10-20 *F then i get it, so i believe its just the air and temps being low. The jerk i talk about is exactly that, it is a large jerk/stutter. If anything its like fuel cut, and i no what that is like because when i first installed my MBC i accidentally turned the boost up way to much.

 

[mikelv]

I think its due to the cold weather and combustion. When the days are warmer for example 35-40 degrees *F the car is running fine. If its say 10-20 *F then i get it, so i believe its just the air and temps being low. The jerk i talk about is exactly that, it is a large jerk/stutter. If anything its like fuel cut, and i no what that is like because when i first installed my MBC i accidentally turned the boost up way to much.

If your problems stem from temperature, then I would suggest you get yourself a good tune up.
You said your system is pretty much stock, so I would say try changing the following.

Air Filter (Air box cleaning)
TB Cleaning and Inspection (vacuum leaks)
Oil & Filter Change
Fuel Filter Change
Premium Fuel Upgrade
Fuel Injector Cleaner
Sea Foam Cleaner (possibly)
Spark Plugs & Wires
Tire Pressure Check (Brake Check)
Brake Fluid Check/Fill/Bleed
Clutch Fluid Check/Fill/Bleed
Gear Oil Change
Rear Differential and Transfer Case Gear Oil Change (AWD)
Power Steering Fluid Check/Fill
Basic Wiring Inspection (look over the engine bay)
Battery and Alternator Circuit Testing (Battery check)
Bulbs and Accessories (Power check)
Turbo Inspection (shaft play & Wastegate function/BCS, oil and water delivery)
Base Timing (timing light)
Mechanical Timing

I’m sure the list goes on but you get the idea. This is a basic once over, (the given) that you should do and 90% of the time, you’ll see that it’s nothing more than a maintenance issue. All vehicles need this periodically no matter what make and model. I only mention this because in factory form, the car should have no problem running in that kind of temperature. Good luck, let us know if you find something.