Boost Leak Intake Manifold Gasket

[BlackMount]

Ok, So I did a boost leak test the other day, and I have a pretty large leak @ the flange right under my Coilpack + Power Transistor....

I have a spare Intake Manifold Gasket laying around, but really not in a good position to tare Intake Manifold off, Especially since I haven't done one on a 2.0L Turbo yet (at least not with the engine in the car), so I know it will be a major PITA especially getting those bottom Bolts...

Any tips on making this easier? I was actually maybe thinking about just waiting a week or 2, and go buy some Head Studs and a new Head Gasket and and just do a whole big job.

IF I decide to wait on it a little bit (either way I cant do it within this week\next) Any tips on a good way to slow down the leak\make it not as bad? I'm having major fuel cutting issues, and from what I've seen\told its because of this boost leak...

 

[BLINKY619]

when i did mine it wasnt really hard just have the right tools and your good to go... remove your battery and youll have more space...!

 

[BlackMount]

so any idea's on how I can make the leak not as leaky? I cant be spirited at all the car runs soo bad with this boost leak....it pulls good till 3k then starts to cut and sometimes just cuts so hard i practically go through the windsheild!

every-once and awhile it will let me take it 5.5 and sometimes even 6 but not that often.


(Stock Boost right now FYI!)

 

[LiquidX]

That bad of a leak you'll need to replace the gasket. Sound's like it blew out and there isn't a sure fire way to seal it up. Bite the bullet and read up on how to take it off. Check out the thermal barrier gaskets as well.

 

[tkelly27]

Take an afternoon to remove that retarded bracket first. The one with the million vacuum lines that gets in the way of everything. If you're going to replace all of them, do it with mitsu vacuum hose from the junkyard. You can't beat it, if you put it in your pocket it's free, and it's just as nice as when it was new. If not replacing the vacuum lines, figure out which ones you need. Search for "taboo" on this site, you'll find their slimmed down vacuum diagram. Then you can leave the gasket for another day.

You will need to pull the fuel rail. Be careful not to loose the plastic spacers. If you think you might, go ahead and get some from the junkyard too. They are the same on the mitsu V6, and SOHC and DOHC NT cars. The injector O rings are all the same too, so if you think you have a bad one you can track some of those down. Other than that, it's just the 3 bolts holding it in, lift it up, and pull it all out of the way.

Not needed but helpful to take of the vacuum lines prior to manifold removal. It is pretty much required that you undo UICP at the TB elbow. Remove all the bottom bolts first from under the car with a 12mm wrench, then move on to the top ones. Slide it off the studs, remove the old gasket, hang the new gasket on, then reverse the procedure. I normally make sure I have all the bolts threaded in through the gasket before tightening them down.

 

[DSM315]

I removed to battery,tb and some piping . it might make it easier to get to the bottom bolts. Use a 12 point wrench also.