Boost gauge sits on 0

[my98GST]

Just got my car running again and took it for a nice little drive to see if everything was like its supposed to be. My boost gauge was working fine on the way out but when I started home I noticed that my car all of a sudden didn't want to build a whole lot of boost but it was trying to and the boost gauge would only read 3-4lbs and then when I'd let off, the needle would just go sit back at 0...What could have happend? What lines should I check?

 

[spoolup]

the line from the gauge to where ever you spliced into it at. Probally near the FPR. Or it could be the hose or fitting at the gauge itself, but that big of a leak could probally be heard.

 

[diablos991]

You should also check that your wastegate is still operating correctly.

 

[terminaltsi]

you spliced into the wrong line between the fpr and the solenoid for the fpr. replace that spliced line and put your T in between the fpr and the manifold, not between the fpr and the solenoid.

 

[my98GST]

On my mbc I've got one coming from the comp. housing as the pressure source, then one going to the bottom nipple on the ext. wg and have the top one open.


I sprayed Carb cleaner around the BG fitting to see if the engine would stall out a little and nothing....

 

[my98GST]

It used to work before I did the new setup, I suppose I've got the wrong line to the WG? It used to work but now nothing...

 

[spoolup]

If he spliced the wrong line on the FPR Solenoid the car would react how it does only after a hot start up then would fix itself after a few minutes. IE the reason the FPR solenoid is there, to allow for a higher FP after restarting the engine when hot. Thus the reason most people just bypass it the way the taboo page use to display (still on here in the tech Q's). Easy way to prove this, bypass it for a minute, Just besure to label the hoses and reconnect them properly when done.

Do you have access to a pressure tester?And its always a great investment in time and money just to build your own.

On the line that you used, did you use the hard plastic line with ferriles that came with the autometer boost gauge? If so, how long has itbeen installed? If a while, I have seen the hard line get brittle and break. If just revently were the ferriles correctly installed and properly tightned? Best bet will be to pressurize the system and the leak should be pretty obvious.

Oh, check the vacuum line at the FPR. It pretty smooth and I have seen them slip off a few times. A zip tie will prevent this.

 

[spoolup]

here is a link to the hallman BC site, most MBCs install the same way. Just double check you work: http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/files.html , there is a page specfic to DSMs. But I know it has nothing to do with the WG since it never sees vacuum in your case, it goes fromt eh fcompressor housing to the WG, your leak is at of after the throttle body (intake mani, lines from the intake mani, one of the solenoids, ect. Hence why you never see vacuum.