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Boost creep fixed. Still running uber rich..

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t56speed

Proven Member
67
0
Oct 23, 2012
Searcy, Arkansas
Ok guys fixed the boost creep today. Car just needed some back pressure. :aha:
Bad news is that it is still running a 10.0 Afr.. :banghead: Ive checked the maf its good checked the 02 sensor its good. The afpr is set at factory pressure and boost is set to wastegate pressure and boosting strong at 10psi. My vac is setting a lil below 20hg and doesnt appear to have a boost leak. I am going to test it tomm just for s's and g's to go ahead an rule it out. Also this being my first Dsm so what size is the spark plugs? Went to pull them an it wasnt a norm 5/8 plug. Is it a 13/16? Bc I didnt have one on hand an tried a 3/4 an it was too big. Will appreciate all the help and suggestions I can get. Btw the factory fuel pressure is 43psi correct??
 
14.8 to 15.3 cruising. Seems to be normal cruising and doesnt stumble under ptb or anything. The 10.0 afr is at wot.... I just dont see the need for it to be running that rich. Also when I change/check the plugs tomm what would be the best gap to run factory boost? .23?
 
If you are on the stock 2G ECU still, the factory maps dip down to as low as 9.6:1 in boost. It's normal for it to be that rich.

Factory gap for the plugs is .028".
 
Appreciate the heads up guys. I think Im gonna adjust the boost back up to about 13psi and see how it feels. I just didnt realize it ran that rich. I am def gonna change/check the plugs tomm and get all that good stuff lined out. Appreciate all the help guys I dont feel too bad about it being soo rich now. I wish it would run a little leaner like a 10.5 or so. Also anything i can do to get it a little leaner without an safc or dsm link?
 
There is a little screw on the bottom of your maf that adjusts a small amount of unmetered air, but i highly suggest not to do this, specially since your idle is already lean, and thats where that adjustment mostly comes into play
 
Ahh I see! Thank you. I probably wont mess with that at all thought bc the car does run so well cruising and idling. Imma just turn up the boost a lil and see if it helps lean it out.. I doubt it will but hey 3psi should make the car feel a little stronger.

Btw since I am on the Evo3 16g do you think that could have anything to do with it since it flowing way more air than the stock t25???
 
blah!!!!! I just need to save for link and get it and street tune it on like 15 to 16pis on the evo3 that should be a fun set up. Ill slap the 650s and tune it as soon as i get link... hufffs cant wait till income taxes.
 
Dude I bet that set up is fun. I honestly thought about just sending my ecu to be chipped.. But, I prefer having the option to change my set up from mildy stock to a full build without paying that extra money everytime. I cant wait for link!
 
Just a question have you ever thought of tuning your car through a flash tune like with a Tactrix cable to your laptop go for a run down the interstate log it to your computer then email it to a company like Jestrtunning then they work out a tune custom for you email it back to you then you run it in your car and see if its what you want you might have to go back and forth a couple of times but I hear people do that alot especially with Evos. Because I personally am not good at all with fuel maps and tunning and I dont have the money for DSMLINK right now or even if I did I wouldnt know how to use it honestly, do you think ecu flashing is a bad idea?
 
^ ECU flashing is a great tuning option. However, it requires the black box ECU which the OP doesn't have. It's very possible that the OP actually has a factory EPROM ECU which makes DSMLink a very simple option. A quick socket install by ECMTuning and everything else is plug-n-play.
 
I havent checked the Ecu yet to make sure i actually do have an E prom but even if I dont, I will buy one for the car. Honestly I dont like the idea of flash tuning bc I want to do all the work on the car myself and tune it myself. I mean tuning the car myself will give me a since of pride that its my work that made it what it is ya know :) And Also if I ever change setups I wont have to wait on the tuner to tune my car. I dealt with that a lot in my 03 Cobra. I was Constantly sending data logs and taking revisions and im tired of that. I wanna actually learn the ropes and tune my own car. I have helped tune a few buddies hondas an used software such as neptune and hondata so im familiar with fuel maps and tables and cells on how to make the afr what I want where I want it. Also the dsm I have is a stock motor so I wont have to adjust the tune for cruising and partial throttle boost bc I only plan to start out on the stock boost and adjust the tune from there so if i need i can just reset and start over on the stock tune. That way I get familiar with link. But,, like i said that is in January at the earliest... :(
 
:hmm:thanks for the info... This is a huge step in the dsm world!! I may pick up a 98 ecu and try this. hmmmmmm
 
Don't get me wrong, flashable ECU's are great option for tuning. Cheap, safe, and relatively powerful. If you consider yourself computer-literate, want to save some bucks, and don't mind a little extra "work" with your tune, then flashable ECU's are the way to go.

However, they lack the simplicity of DSMLink. If you want to adjust timing/fuel and go then DSMLink is what you want. Since your already familiar with fuel and timing maps it should be uber easy to learn. It can also log/use various inputs such as wideband, EGT, different MAF sensors, or even no MAF sensor at all (speed density). Not to say Link is the only tuning system that can do those things, but it definitely makes it much easier.

I could go on and on, but I'd suggest visiting DSMLink.com and downloading DSMLink V3 (the program is free). Just mess around on it for a while and even download some logs from the Tuning section on here. That should give you a good idea of what Link can really do.

On a side note- Check the door sticker for the build date of your car. If it was built in early-mid 1994, it's very likely you have an "Early 95". They came with EPROM ECU's along with large vented rear rotors and a Viscous LSD rear diff.
 
I bet hes got an eeprom ecu.... lucky bastard LOL. Well, even if you dont, tom will convert it to eeprom and send the ecu back to you when/if you go with link. I cant weigh in too much on tuning options but i can tell you that links GUI is very user friendly and easy to understand. I think the only other system id mess with is the AEM EMS stand alone. But, its twice the cost of link, or more. Supposedly its better but is it worth almost 1500 bucks?(rhetorical)
 
I did some more research lastnight. I believe im gonna just go with link until and if flashing becomes more user friendly. I think that is my best option for now.
 
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