Blue Bones

[Mech Addict]

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Blue Bones


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[Mech Addict]

Suspected fuel delivery issues. Very hard cold start (almost impossible w/o starting fluid), and one episode of driveability issues. Also seeping fuel tank drain plug. Just drained tank and removed pump. Some rust inside. Plan to check pump and fuel gague sending unit w/ multimeter, and replace fuel filter. Also have replaced spark plugs (didn’t solve starting issue).

Once I get the tank drain plug to stop seeping, I can get it in the garage on stands, and examine the p/s leak (completely empties in 1-2 days).

 

[Talondvr]

Glad you found one and that you got it home safe. Hope all works out for you. Lots of good info here, just search or ask!
I would love to find a Galant or maybe a 2g if I could find one for a descent price. I used to have a 90 but don't have many parts left. A throttle body, maybe a exhaust mani and some other small stuff.
Is your FIAV hooked up, that might cause cold start issues.

 

[Mech Addict]

Good suggestion, haven’t looked into that yet. Would that cause a lean condition on starting? I have both factory manuals and Haynes, so I’l read up on the FIAV operation and troubleshooting.

Right now I have the fuel tank drained and pump assembly removed. Rust and debris are in there, so cleaning all that up, and flushing lines and new filter seem like first step in any case. Actually maybe going to look at a 90 gsx parts car tomorrow. Because hey, why try to fix up one when you can have two non-runner projects. Don’t suppose anyone else can relate.;()

 

[Mech Addict]

Ok, I think this is my first post of actual work going on with my gsx. The fuel pump is removed. The filter sock is a nice rusty brown. It’s had time to dry out, and lovely brown clouds issue forth when I flick it with my finger. The entire hanger assembly has light to moderate surface rust, and all the wires seem very brittle. Not surprised since the live in gas. I checked the fuel level sender per the factory service manual, and the resistance does not change smoothly as the float arm is cycled through its range. This may explain why the gage is not functioning. I am considering purchasing a whole now factory pump unit, which seems to include the pump, harness, sender, low level sensor, gasket, pressure piping. Pricey, around $500 is cheapest I’ve found on line. Anybody got a better idea??
I also ordered the fuel tank sealant kit from Eastwood, to deal with the root cause: rusty tank interior. Anyone tried this? New tanks list for $750 min. Remember, I’m going stock when possible, no fuel cells or race pumps, and I want the dash gage and low alarm to work. Obviously a filter change is a given.

 

[Mech Addict]

Well this might explain those driveability issues I experienced! Tank has rust and debris galore. I ordered a do-it-youself tank sealing kit from Eastwood, but have also noticed that the spendy new oem tank comes with the pump, hanger, level sender, all installed as a unit, at least according to the parts catalog. I was already pretty much decided to get the pump unit for about $475 (cheapest I could find), but for $750 I can get the whole new tank with everything in it. Kinda tempting, I guess, in a slippery slope sort of way.

 

[Mech Addict]

Major victory simply getting the car back in the garage ( come-along). Put the front on stands so I could have a look at the p/s leak, and discovered my car is equipped w/ ventilated CV boots! Sure makes it easy to inspect the joints (which it just so happens don’t look so good). Impressive that I drove it 2,400 mi this way, and only a light shimmy. Got just a few steps in on removing the steering box. Fluid is coming from the drivers side bellows (as in, it will drain all the fluid, not just drips). Must be an O-ring or whatever seals the shaft chewed away. Tune in next week.

 

[Mech Addict]

Just arrived!!
Nearly every post I post repeats how I am focused on a stock restoration, but the one “mod” I really wanted is now in my possession. Canada-model belts conversion. I now have the belts, buckles, bolts, and plastic panels that are specific to the Canada models (thank you pleasant Northern neighbors). So sort of a “factory-mod”. My car came to me with mostly missing belts, and one half the p/s front pillar cover anyway, so “new” parts were already needed. Lucked into this find. Can’t wait to swap out the motorized mouse.

 

[Mech Addict]

My latest victory is the installation of my headliner. It started as a carbon fiber aftermarket part. I had my upholstery person put factory-style covering on it. Unfortunately, the way it was formed made it not want to fit tightly at the windshield end, where it was bowed down in the center. My solution was to find a rearview mirror that would mount to the frame directly, and use that to draw the headliner up tight.
I found that the rearview mirror from 96--2000 Honda Civic was a decent option. If you get a used one like I did, it even comes with a light grey plastic cover!. It gives three screw holes to mount. I used 6mm U-nuts and some screws that I had left over from a TV wall mounting bracket to make it happen. Took a little trial/error fitting to get it all lined up, but in the end looks pretty close to an OEM look.
I also taped a bunch of cardboard templates taped to the frame & glass to mark the various mounting hole locations for the headliner, and then drilled the holes and got it in there. I have the visors and visor clips ready, but waiting on the correct screws to arrive from Japan with other items (anybody's guess at this point).
This was sort of the critical-path stage of my interior restoration, and I have most of everything I need to start getting the rest of the Lego-set interior back together. After I took these photos I got the dash board and carpet in. Trim panels and seats should be in after a few more sessions in the garage, and I will post then.

 

[Mech Addict]

My frustrating experience with replacement parts continues tonight. After a recent discovery that Timken front outer wheel seals don’t fit my hubs, I have just found that Mevotec control arms are too short! Not much to say that isn’t apparent in the photos. stock arm shown in primer grey, Mevotec in black. The big washer is around 1/4 inch too close to the front axis mount. How do manufacturers continue to sell these parts profitably?? The only way I could have mounted it was to slide the big rubber donut bushing back, partly off the pin, and then the washer wouldn’t even contact the bushing. All the rearward thrust would bear on only the smaller front bushing, which seems dangerous. I know there is a tech article about Dorman vs. Raybestos control arms, but I assume they were both at least dimensionally correct. These are simply not usable replacements. I’ll finish repainting my stock arms and re-use them with the new donut bushings (OEM) that I bought from Amayama. $130 wasted.

 

[Mech Addict]

Thought I was starting to get my car back to running (after a year on jackstands), and started refilling fluids. Then I start to hear dribbling while adding coolant. Looks like a banjo bolt has lost seal, but a closer look from more angles reveals some kind of bolt hole with nothing in it, and coolant running out of it. After some research and good info from repair experts (thanks JusMX141), there is a freeze plug that should be there, and must have been when I first bought the car last year and drove it 2400mi. I drained all that clean clear water from the radiator drain petcock, and removed the lower rad hose.
This, apparently, does not remove all the coolant (water). I’m now hoping that this popped freeze plug is the extant of damage by our enthusiastic Wyoming winter. Still, I now have the fans and rad hoses out. Will need to take the intake snorkel and airbox so I can access the flare fitting connecting the water pipe to the turbo. That line blocks a clear access to the (missing) freeze plug. It might work that I don’t have to fully remove the turbo, but I do have one broken exhaust stud, so perhaps time to fix both...
Anyone replace one of these plugs, and on or off the car???

 

[Mech Addict]

Removed the turbo and manifold, went OK. Then needed to remove exhaust studs: I was worried. Two were already sheared below the nuts. I sprayed penetrating stuff a day ahead, heated lightly with propane torch, and got the Lisle tool pictured. I’ve read some bad stories about these, but it all went fine. Gasket, bolts and nuts, and copper banjo washers should arrive today. Then back to filling fluids and getting ready to START.

 

[Mech Addict]

Got the car running again after clutch MC failed at a stoplight. Ended up replacing slave, all pedal bushings, swapped 2G clevis rod, new brake MC, replaced a crappy short shifter with an OEM + new bushings and 2g knob. Clutch engagement is now near top of pedal (per Jack’s instruction video), and shifting is far improved. With the shorter knob, thows are about the same as the short shift w/ 1g knob. Also, finally, a few easy fixes. I have gotten the cruise control working by simply installing the little rubber bumper on the clutch pedal arm. Would have been nice to have had it working when I drove cross-county. Also got around to reading the fault causing check engine light. Using a $10 analog meter, got code 31: knock sensor. Popped the hood to find it was simply unplugged. Plugged it back in, No more fault! Up next: getting headlight pop-ups and rear wiper working. After that will be chasing down some squeaks and rattles.

 

[Mech Addict]

Past due on an update. Car had been running ok but spent a lot of time parked. Now I’m finally getting after the drivetrain. I purchased a used 90 5 speed and 22spline xfer from another dsmer, and had them shipped to TRE. Really fun discussing cars with the shop owner, Jon Ripple. Had a full rebuild on both parts, with a few bells and whistles (glass bead the cases, shot peen certain parts). Then got a rear diff and set of 3 bolt axles from another member, and had the diff shipped to TRE as well. More recently obtained all the parts to refresh the prop shaft, mostly fro Amayama. U joints, lobro boot kit, center bearings, and related fasteners. It’s a little tacky to post cost for these, but if anyone is intered, pm me.

Anyway, I now have pulled out most everything down to the crank flange. No real hiccups. Honestly, removing the stock airbox and the battery tray were the two hardest parts. The flywheel and pressure plate in the car were both original with overheating appearance. Clutch disc was replaced at some point with a Valeo by PO, not too long ago probaly. It was wearing a little funky. I was able to confirm that the TO bearing that came with my Exedy stock replacement clutch kit is identical (minus 31 years and 97k miles) to the original one, down to the NSK part number.

After advice of many, I’ll be ordering a new rear main seal. Guess I’ll start removing that today, and perhaps the prop and rear end, too. One mod, in a rather short list of mods that I’m choosing to do, is a “performance cat” (meaning, it’s just a straight pipe). It’s a $30 ebay special, but made of stainless with decent looking welds. Appears to be the right dimensions to replace the real cat. We’ll see if it has any noticeable effects, for both power (yay!) and noise (boo!). One more detail I almost forgot was replacing the regular bleeder screw on the slave cylinder with a speed bleeder. It fits nicely in terms of length and whatnot, though a bit bigger on the bolt flats, taking a 12mm instead of the original 10mm. Seems like it should work OK, and make bleeding the clutch easier/ more complete.

 

[Mech Addict]

After some input for several members, I pulled the rear main seal. Wasn’t bad: I can basically sit upright on the floor since the trans is out. I ran a utility knife blade along the pan joint, only under the seal retainer, tapping it in with a hammer and pulling it out with pliers. There are two places to pry on the lower, outer ends of the retainer, and it popped off without much force, which was good since it’s aluminum.
Also dropped the prop shaft out, and removed the rearward two U-joints (did front one with a yoke kit a year ago). I’ve been using a vice and sockets, which works, but a little janky. Ran to the parts store to see if they had a proper press tool, but no dice. Also broke one of the pins on my snap ring pliers from the old rusty snap rings. Par for the course, I’d say.

 

[We're on Boost]

Had a full rebuild on both parts, with a few bells and whistles (glass bead the cases, shot peen certain parts).

Do you have your transmission and T-case back from TRE now?

 

[Mech Addict]

Yes, all looking shiny & new. Jon determined that the viscous coupling in the rear diff was trash, but he had a stash of good used ones to replace with. Honestly with all the dire warnings about parts NLA, I’m half tempted to ship him the original trans, xfer, and rear end coming out of my car, and simply hold on to them after they’re all rebuilt. I had also toyed with the idea of tackling those rebuilds myself someday, too, but not sure that will be viable in a year or three…
This is why believe the best thing for our dsm hobby is if the value of these cars climbs quickly. I know it will mean the end of the inexpensive fun Highly modifiable platform that they are known for, but otherwise it will be something breaks and you tow the car to the junkyard. Time can be cruel.

 

[Mech Addict]

I’ll have to take a new pic of the xfer, but bere is the tranny and rear.

 

[Mech Addict]

And that is bare aluminum, not paint.

 

[We're on Boost]

Ahh good, thanks for the pics.
I noticed back on March 31 2021 you made a post in a 2G thread saying that you were having this stuff rebuilt at TRE. So I got curious to check on the status of it, just to have a rough idea of turn-around time with TRE. Sounds like it's been about 8 months? Or maybe longer - I don't know when you sent him the cores and gave him the go-ahead.

 

[Mech Addict]

Oh, it was mostly me that was the hold-up. After Jon received the cores, I think he had the xfer opened up after a day or two with an estimate to rebuild. I think I hmmmmed and hawwed and wanted to know also about the tranny before I pulled the trigger on both. The xfer was done in a week or two, the trans maybe a few/3 weeks later. I also had a used flywheel sent to him with the diff, and he made arrangements with a local machine shop to resurface it. And I believe he inspected it after, and packed and shipped it to me. I waited until early fall to go ahead with the diff work, and he was patient until I pulled the trigger. Only took a week or two. If you were in a hurry, I would imagine he could do nearly any rebuild in a couple weeks. This stuff is so familiar to him. I’m still anxious to get everything swapped into the car and see how it drives. I’ve got some cleanup and touch up paint on various brackets and whatnot, and now waiting on a rear main seal from JNZ, but might get stuff going back in this weekend.

 

[We're on Boost]

That's actually really quick then. I wouldn't have been surprised even if it really was 8 months.

I hope the values keep going up too. I treat my car now kind of like how guys treat their vintage Ferraris and so-forth. Except that I think you can actually get those cars rebuilt if you have enough money to spend. And people do race them, like at Goodwood, or even here at Pacific Raceways.
Well I'm not going to race mine.

 

[Mech Addict]

After derusting and repainting all my driveshaft pieces, I got it reassembled today. Also repainted my front, rear, and trans motor mount brackets. Found out my new front mount is junk. The lower “pipe” mount is way out of spec. I ended up just reusing the original, which was in decent enough shape.
Garage was cold, so progress was slow under the car. The driveshaft work was indoors, which was a treat.

 

[Mech Addict]

Clean rebuilt prop shaft ready to go back in. I’m pleased with the results. OAL 77”. Two of the old ujoints were toast. The lobro was probably fine, but did a boot kit anyway. The carrier bearings turned smoothly, but the rubber was cracking moderately. One had some kind of yarn or plastic string all wound up into it. Who knows?
I have new oem rubber mounts and new bolts for the rear flange to make it all fresh again. The whole process was pretty straightforward, and basically well described in the FSM. Apart from the cost, (~$500) I recommend it for high mileage awd’s.

 

[Dericsh]

Looks good. You know something is clean when you can bring it inside and set it on the rug