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block inspection in car

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
So I just recently found out my friend deystroyed my head as a.result of bad installation.
I thought I didnt have to worry about my block because it's new from Dsmgraveyard but now that I've seen almost every review on here are really bad(in the vendors section) I'm wondering how well my block was put together. Motor was running good before, never drove on it. Compression tests were good.

Was wondering if I can take the oil pan off check the crankshaft case bolts for torque (torque check) or do I really need to take the block out to have it examined?
 
How do u screw up putting a head on? LOL. but on topic, what exactly happened to the head?

well if you look at my previous post he tightened the cam caps too tight, destroying the head.

The block is new in everything that bolts to the block is new so I'm not sure about checking the oil pump. Can I take the crankshaft case off and retorque the bolts so I know for sure or should I just use a torque check the bolts without unbolting them?

Should i just take the block out?
 
I would take it out if you are going to remove the crankshaft caps, as the crank it attached to the tranny
 
Sand will get past the oil pickup screen and could scratch up the oil pump gears(some people stress over that). While the oil pump in the 97 survived spun bearings with gouges and it still pumps out 100+ psi on a cold starts with balance shafts.

The sand would get caught by the filter so I wouldn't worry about it damaging the crank, but if you have the oil pan off anyways, I would check the rod caps to be sure. The rods are the last to get oil, so they will show signs of oil starvation first.

As for torquing the bolts, loosen one at a time and retorque.
 
How many miles on the engine since the install?

not really any miles only idleing here and there. Total idling time estimated to be around close to 4 - 5 hours tops. Are the crank caps what makes the actual crank casewas refering to? As in the first thing you see when the oil pans off, holding the crankshaft?

I'm so frustrated, you would think if you payed a company who claims to know what there doing twice as much of what the true value of the block is, you would get what you pay for.

Not to say my blocks messed up but its a shame I have to wonder
 
I agree with everyone else about dsmgraveyards(the bad reviews), but i thought they fixed the sand in the blocks issue?
Either way, take that thing apart and have a look.
 
if it was a shop install on the head take it back to them and have them fix it, but if it was your buddy who did it then your SOL.
 
I really want to just continue with pulling the block with the trans out at the same time but I'm nervous about pulling out and reinstalling the front axles I've done the transfer case before so I'm not worried about that just the front axles, even though they're freshly installed from the shop in never driven on
 
They'll pop out fine. If you're really worried, then take them out first.

I could see me struggling with the axles but I could probably get them out, just mostly wondering about the cotter pin when reinstalling the shafts
 
I would recommend you get a chiltons or Haynes repair manual, then just read it.

The help you need is here on the fourm.

You can do this if you so choose.
 
Axles are really easy (as long as they are not stuck in the hub assembly that is). All you need to do is take the axle nut and cotter pin off. The take the strut off the lower control arm, take the lower control arm off of the chassis. Drain the tranny fluid. pull the wheel out and push the axle through the hub. Then take a pry bar and pop the axle out of the tranny. I don't even take the wheels off to take the axles out
 
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