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Big Fn Turbo

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What about the GT30 Series?

Slowboy or AGP?

Anything new on the FP version?

I thought I just saw a possible prototype post of the new FP30/65 that trapped 147mph on the DSM times site?

I've been pondering this same question myself.
I believe Ball bearing is the way to go.
and from the hear/say I've read the FP GT30 turbo when it comes out is going to be the cat's meow so to speak.

You said your looking for internally gated turbo's vs. External - what are the reasons, besides expense?

why would you suggest one over the other? does it make that big of a difference in performance? (I'm just curious if there is a limitation for internally gatted turbo's vs. External ones)

-brian
 
Originally posted by BrnOutKing
brian



why would you suggest one over the other?

External wastegate will hold boost til the last second and then release. Internal will start letting go boost b4 your set boost. That's with External wastegate is always in my IMO better.

does it make that big of a difference in performance?

It may make a split sec difference maybe .2 seconds.
 
Originally posted by BrnOutKing
What about the GT30 Series?

Slowboy or AGP?

Anything new on the FP version?

I thought I just saw a possible prototype post of the new FP30/65 that trapped 147mph on the DSM times site?

I've been pondering this same question myself.
I believe Ball bearing is the way to go.
and from the hear/say I've read the FP GT30 turbo when it comes out is going to be the cat's meow so to speak.

You said your looking for internally gated turbo's vs. External - what are the reasons, besides expense?

why would you suggest one over the other? does it make that big of a difference in performance? (I'm just curious if there is a limitation for internally gatted turbo's vs. External ones)

-brian

I really like the way the AGP turbos are looking, but just wonder how effective the GT turbine wheel is in a little 7cm Mitsu housing. Any of you guys using any of the AGP GT turbos that bolt up to the dsm manifold?

Only reason I am looking at an internal gate, is that I could sell my entire setup that I have now and have more $ towards the new turbo. Not for any performance reason.

Mainedsm, apology accepted and I do suck at the internet thing...but I'll learn.;)
 
you want to make 500+ whp? AGP L3R, FP RED, SBR G60-1, Magnus
G-pumper 5. They will al get the job done. Hell, an L2r has the airflow to do that kind of HP. Just pick whatever one you think you will like the best.
 
I know of a local dsm'r with L2R he runs mid 12's not sure of the rest of his mods I'll see if I can get him to post...
 
Originally posted by bugdoubt


OMFG LOL

onward post whore .....away

Man I felt like blowing up on this dude too. But decided not too. This car is a real car, not some imaginary thing in his head.

I don't think some of ya'll that are making these turbo suggestions realize that this car is already in the 11's. Why in the hell would he care about a turbo that is on a car running 12's? Just curious.
Personally I wouldn't get a bigger turbo. I throw on that 272i cam and go stand alone. I am willing to bet that with the current turbo and the addition of the above mentioned items there is at least another 50 horses in their. Minus N2O mind you. The other thing I would do is have that intercooler flow tested. While innovative and big as hell, I think that at the lower HP levels it works just fine, but as you are increasing flow and HP the effeciency may be dropping drastically. That may be something to look into.
 
Originally posted by ILOSE


Man I felt like blowing up on this dude too. But decided not too. This car is a real car, not some imaginary thing in his head.

I don't think some of ya'll that are making these turbo suggestions realize that this car is already in the 11's. Why in the hell would he care about a turbo that is on a car running 12's? Just curious.
Personally I wouldn't get a bigger turbo. I throw on that 272i cam and go stand alone. I am willing to bet that with the current turbo and the addition of the above mentioned items there is at least another 50 horses in their. Minus N2O mind you. The other thing I would do is have that intercooler flow tested. While innovative and big as hell, I think that at the lower HP levels it works just fine, but as you are increasing flow and HP the effeciency may be dropping drastically. That may be something to look into.

I am going to stick with the current turbo until I get these other parts on. The 272 intake is on three week back order from Options. I know other places have them in stock, but I get it from options for $75 less than the nearest competitor. I believe with the cam, a little spray and some additional tuning, I will be happy. As for the current turbo, I don't believe the exhaust side of my turbo is big enough to take advantage the compressor wheel in there, so instead of rebuilding with a new exhaust section, I figure just get a new bigger turbo and sell the current one.

As for the intercooler, I have thought about going to something a little less drastic, but this one is working great. It appears to be one giant top to bottom, but it actually goes from the drivers side down through two cores and then back up through the other two cores...not much pressure drop.

A for stand alone, I don't have the cash after purchasing this other stuff, and don't have the knowledge to tune it myself. I do understand there is more power there with a stand alone, but I will have to save enough to have a big name tune it. This will be done by summer 2003 though.
 
Originally posted by got traction?
How does your GST have an AWD tranny???????

Actually it is an AWD transmission. It has the center diff welded and the transfer case output shaft removed...along with other non essential items ;). This was done because the long gears in the front wheel killed my 60 ft. I believe that once the N2O is added I might put the FWD trans back in there. I would like to run it with both trannies to see which is better for 1/4 mile use.

Yes, it is a comfort to know that you have a spare tranny in the garage!!
 
Man you don't need 272 just change your compressor housing to T04E and you'll get a He... alot more flow than that 18g housing and tune for that. And I bet if you are a good driver you be around 11.6 with no NOS. Look at DSM race times you'll see what just a change if your Compressor housing will just do for you.
 
Changing that compressor housing to a T04E will do absolutely nothing for you. I dont know why someone would even think that it would, considering the 18G, 17c, and 20G compressor housings are all the SAME thing(minus inlet sizes). Any one of the housings can be used to make a Red, which uses the 60-1 wheel, which is larger than your 60trim which in "theory" isnt good, but it sure seems to work in that housing. Saying a T04E would flow hella better is just hearsay. Seriously. Someone also mentioned something about running a 60-1 past 30psi, I wouldnt recommend it, even Curt only runs 29psi, in fact, every one I know that does well with the Reds run 28-29psi.

As far as the SAFC goes, why do you figure it is hurting him? The two quickest cars in the Carolinas are using SAFCs, so something must be good about them. After all, correct tuning is correct tuning, it doesnt matter how you go about getting it.
 
You are very true about correct tuning is correct tuning. But with a PMS w/ software or a Standalone you can do some more fine tuning. And it's harder to pinpoint your timing with just cams gears. Sometimes you have +/- timing at different rpm so that's why I say go with a better setup. Again, this thread was about how he can get 500whp out his car. Not about the quickest DSM in NC. Don't get me wrong I know Al and you run 10.5 and 11.3 but i don't know you'll setup. But he is trying to get 500 whp out of a S-AFC I think he'll be one of the first. And it didn't say if he had the big rods in his car or not. As for the housing I thought he have TD05 housing not the TD06 my bad on that one.:D
 
I ordered some bearings from Mike at Slowboy racing yesterday and he told me another one of his custmers daynoed at 469 with one of his G60-1 turbos so I'm hoping to pass the 500hp mark with a little bit of laughing gass.
 
Originally posted by 122andy
Changing that compressor housing to a T04E will do absolutely nothing for you. I dont know why someone would even think that it would, considering the 18G, 17c, and 20G compressor housings are all the SAME thing(minus inlet sizes). Any one of the housings can be used to make a Red, which uses the 60-1 wheel, which is larger than your 60trim which in "theory" isnt good, but it sure seems to work in that housing. Saying a T04E would flow hella better is just hearsay. Seriously. Someone also mentioned something about running a 60-1 past 30psi, I wouldnt recommend it, even Curt only runs 29psi, in fact, every one I know that does well with the Reds run 28-29psi.

As far as the SAFC goes, why do you figure it is hurting him? The two quickest cars in the Carolinas are using SAFCs, so something must be good about them. After all, correct tuning is correct tuning, it doesnt matter how you go about getting it.

Whats up Andy, I heard you ran some good times in your galant a couple of weekends ago. Great Job!

Tuan has been telling me I should try a different turbo setup than the one on here, he believes it is hurting the car. I thought I would get some opnions.

Have to say, I have been enjoying Marcus's old car, but still miss my old AWD. Hope to seee you out at the Rock this summer, and hopefully, I can get some quicker times.
 
I would say switching to a different turbo would be your best bet, but I can tell you its not the compressor housing or turbine housing thats hurting you. After all, there are alot of fast guys using 7cm housings, I even went back to one awhile back, the 8 cm was just too lethargic on the street, and the 7cm didnt hurt the power output one bit.

I would say its your wheel combination thats hurting you. It seems the Frank 4 just never did that well, there were some cars that did so-so with em, but nothing spectactular. I would just send it off and get a 6H and a 60-1 put in it, and go from there.
 
Originally posted by Mindslayer
And it's harder to pinpoint your timing with just cams gears. Sometimes you have +/- timing at different rpm so that's why I say go with a better setup.
You'll have to excuse me, but I got totally lost on that one. Are you talking about cam timing or ignition timing, those are two completely different things?
Originally posted by Mindslayer
Again, this thread was about how he can get 500whp out his car. Not about the quickest DSM in NC. Don't get me wrong I know Al and you run 10.5 and 11.3 but i don't know you'll setup.
True, this thread isnt about the quickest cars in NC, but when someone claims a SAFC is holding him back, all you have to do is look at some local examples of cars that are running well, which in turn usually means they are also making good power, which is what we were talking about. I was actually referring to my car and Charlies car, since Als car has been gone for 2 years now.
 
Originally posted by 122andy
I would say switching to a different turbo would be your best bet, but I can tell you its not the compressor housing or turbine housing thats hurting you. After all, there are alot of fast guys using 7cm housings, I even went back to one awhile back, the 8 cm was just too lethargic on the street, and the 7cm didnt hurt the power output one bit.

I would say its your wheel combination thats hurting you. It seems the Frank 4 just never did that well, there were some cars that did so-so with em, but nothing spectactular. I would just send it off and get a 6H and a 60-1 put in it, and go from there.

Yeah, I think I will go with that set-up(60-1 and 8cm) I'm not concerned about lag on the street, because being front wheel drive it is already worthless without slicks.
I replaced the 264 intake with a 272 today and feels like power is delivered alot smoother, but don't know if I gained any power. Marcus and I took it out and checked it with the wideband Tuan built for me and it looks good, a little fat on top, but I feel it is safe. From about 6000rpm up it was reading about 1.8 volts(solid 2 volts below that), and the egt's got to about 820 at the top of third. An unusal thing happened though, I got some boost creep. Can a cam change do that?

Another thing, has anyone ever used your phenolic spacer with a magnus manifold? I have one on the way and wondered if it would do any good?
 
Originally posted by 122andy
You'll have to excuse me, but I got totally lost on that one. Are you talking about cam timing or ignition timing, those are two completely different things?

I was talking about ignition timing.

True, this thread isnt about the quickest cars in NC, but when someone claims a SAFC is holding him back, all you have to do is look at some local examples of cars that are running well, which in turn usually means they are also making good power, which is what we were talking about. I was actually referring to my car and Charlies car, since Als car has been gone for 2 years now.

Oh okay, I havn't seen or heard about Charlies car. So I thought you was talking about Al my bad.:) Just IMO it can be better and easier to tune for bigger power out of the PMS with software or Standalone than a S-AFC. Like with the PMS you can just type in your A/F you want and go. Then play with the timing a lil to get that extra few ponies out the motor.
 
Originally posted by ILOSE


Nope that is not how a PMS works! Besides it doesn't have a WB to tune that accuratly.

That's how it does work it don't use a wideband it use you factory O2 SENSOR.And with the software it puts the PMS into standalone mod. Go to the web site.
 
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