Best way to tune 450-500whp

[lil corb]

I'm building my car (finally) and on Tuning part of build.

Mods will be:

JAM stage 2 shortblock with Stage 1 non CNC head
Shep stage 3 trans
255hp walbro
buschur bolt on fpr
900 or 1000cc FICs
S262 or FP green (leaning towards 262)
Tial 44 wastegate off of o2 housing
FP manifold
FP2 cams
MLS gasket
ARP headstuds

Car is going to be mostly drag with with some weekend fun Looking for 450-500hp and high 10s in gutted 1g (driver baby!)on Pump with some race gas. I was looking to go with AEM EMS 2 put while researching I think the DSM link v3 would suffice. I do want to run SD though, question is would DSM Link take my ECU to be converted to EPROM if my stock ecu is trashed. (Broken caps).

Any input and advice on anything?

Thanks

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

The best thing I can tell you is to get in touch with someone who really knows these things like Steve, ECMTuning, or DSMchips. That would be the best way for you to tell what can or can't be done.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/374491-best-place-send-your-eprom-ecu-get-socketed.html

 

[lil corb]

The best thing I can tell you is to get in touch with someone who really knows these things like Steve, ECMTuning, or DSMchips. That would be the best way for you to tell what can or can't be done.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/374491-best-place-send-your-eprom-ecu-get-socketed.html

According to that link, they do fix broken ecu's for a little more charge. I am leaning towards DSM link now.

Thanks for info

 

[slowgsr]

I like my AEM, I have the Gen1 and had it for awhile. It works well, dsmlink im sure is good too. Heck, I just tuned my friends on the dyno yesterday with Megasquirt, anything that gives you full control of fuel/timing values and has some other nice bells/whistles will do the job just fine!

 

[rx7ttlm]

I'm building my car (finally) and on Tuning part of build.

Mods will be:

JAM stage 2 shortblock with Stage 1 non CNC head
Shep stage 3 trans
255hp walbro
buschur bolt on fpr
900 or 1000cc FICs
S262 or FP green (leaning towards 262)
Tial 44 wastegate off of o2 housing
FP manifold
FP2 cams
MLS gasket
ARP headstuds

Car is going to be mostly drag with with some weekend fun Looking for 450-500hp and high 10s in gutted 1g (driver baby!)on Pump with some race gas. I was looking to go with AEM EMS 2 put while researching I think the DSM link v3 would suffice. I do want to run SD though, question is would DSM Link take my ECU to be converted to EPROM if my stock ecu is trashed. (Broken caps).

Any input and advice on anything?

Thanks

I have seen some trashed ecu's get repaired by tom at ecmlink. If its a eprom ecu and just needs repair its not to bad. But the 2g non eprom conversion is spendy (i don't know how much). But for dsmlink questions. i would say use link, cause there is a forum that you can get all sorts of tuning help on. Consistent high 10's will likely require more power. Just a thought. Unless your johnny on the spot shifting and off the line. advise, V3 RULES. ECU controlled boost should be coming soon (tom is working on it currently and the early release application update has it already). guys with pretty damn big turbos run low 11's. your looking at the 55-65lb/min turbo for that time i think for the average guy. I am running V3 and within a week or two will have my 2g converted to SD. Trust me, for the price dsmlink is the shit. Plug and play, the new application software can do a helova lot for what it is. next week I am dropping in 2150 injectors and I am 100% certain that I can tune them within 15 min or so from 750's. Its all ez cheese man. *note I have been doing this for a while *

 

[JohnTSI]

ECMlink will do everything you need with or without converting to SD.

 

[dsmdeliveryboy]

Dsmlink will be perfect for your power goals

 

[boosted240]

Ecmlink would do what you need but AEM is A LOT better then link. Iv played around with the series 2 and v3 and would take AEM over link ANY day. You should get AEM.

 

[DSMnoobsause]

i agree with Boosted240 AEM all the way.if you have the cash. but im getting Dsmlink just cuss its so freaking cheap and im a broke Mofo after the engine build ha ha. plus link is a great application since i wont have to rewire the engine bay

 

[Boosted98gsx]

AEM = REQUIRED TO RUN SPEED DENSITY (aka not NOOB friendly).

Dsmlink = Most powerful MAF based tuning program for DSMs.

 

[lil corb]

thanks guys for all the help. I'm going to goi with link v3 but contemplating evo 8 maf or 2g maf? I am hoping for 10s! Just something to shoot for with mods I'll have. I have a 1g non eprom bad ecu needing to be fix and converted. Anyone know eta on boost controller? I'm running a turbosmart one know but would like to incorporate it together. Man, it's expensive to be fast...cheap, fast, reliable. I'll choose last two!

thanks

 

[livedsm4g63]

Just get a gm 3'' maf and get the new hookup cable that ecmtuning sells so you dont have to run a translator.

 

[rx7ttlm]

with link you can switch ## car to speed density with a 30 something dollar harness. add a boost sensor which you might already have and a 30 something dollar gm air temp sensor and you have a setup that's limited by your parts, there are a crap ton of guys running 600 hp on link v3. Its user friendly and its good. Ask the aem guy how his engine bottom end is driving around parking lots . Every aem car that I have driven blows, maybe it was their tuners. But adjust tip in on link and your done. And your car won't suddenly suck when its cold .

Honestly, I will probably end up running AEM EMS in my road race car ONLY, because of the RS 232 protocol that allows it to mate up with my AIM dash / data logger. So I can display engine operating perameters on the dash and configure warnings etc. But I have yet to see a non pro do that.

Just get a gm 3'' maf and get the new hookup cable that ecmtuning sells so you dont have to run a translator.

say no to maf ,and yes to speed density . Its hard to overrun a 5 bar absolute pressure sensor. Easy to overrun a maf.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

with link you can switch ## car to speed density with a 30 something dollar harness. add a boost sensor which you might already have and a 30 something dollar gm air temp sensor and you have a setup that's limited by your parts.

You can do the SD thing with DS-Map's Jackal software. Get the sensors and buy either a Chip Burner and some chips, or an Ostrich Eprom Emulator.

DS-Map Forums
Welcome to www.moates.net! : Moates.Net

 

[LandoAWD]

DSMap or Link will do the trick. AEM tuners = $$$ Some can manage on their own, but I've not heard of many wiring up an EMS and getting the same results as the popular alternatives without a good tuner.

 

[turboglenn]

DSm/ECMlink will do what you need. I prefer SD, but you can get by with either and your goals. As for stand alones, to me the AEM is purposely made to confuse you and make the learning curve steerp, and they are my least favorite systems to tune and i love doing this(and i've been tuning ECU's for 13+ years)

The Megasquirt's new ECU is pretty badd ass for it's price, but personally i became a haltech dealer becaue i think they are the best balance of use friendly and advanced features with a simple learning curve (at least the older e6 series) I like stand alones because thye will run on anything you want ot run them on when you learn how to set them up. ECM/DSMlink are only good for DSM's basically but are super easy to setup compared to AEM

As for the best way to tune.. I recomend a dyno, but if you're confident on the streets when there's no one around have some one drive to get your low throttle and base tune going, then to do your WOT tuning, take logs in 3rd gear but watch the wideband and let off when it or if it goes lean (rich is fine, just log it and adjust after) Leave the timing turned down untill you get your AFR's dialed in, then advance timing a couple degrees at a time through out the range with more emphasis on climbinmg to a higher number of degrees by redline and being a little more conservative around peak torque

a car will use les fuel after the peak power areas of your engine/cam combo so it's common to see them go rich and need leaned out after 6kRPM on a decently built 450 horse setup

 

[lil corb]

DSm/ECMlink will do what you need. I prefer SD, but you can get by with either and your goals. As for stand alones, to me the AEM is purposely made to confuse you and make the learning curve steerp, and they are my least favorite systems to tune and i love doing this(and i've been tuning ECU's for 13+ years)

The Megasquirt's new ECU is pretty badd ass for it's price, but personally i became a haltech dealer becaue i think they are the best balance of use friendly and advanced features with a simple learning curve (at least the older e6 series) I like stand alones because thye will run on anything you want ot run them on when you learn how to set them up. ECM/DSMlink are only good for DSM's basically but are super easy to setup compared to AEM

As for the best way to tune.. I recomend a dyno, but if you're confident on the streets when there's no one around have some one drive to get your low throttle and base tune going, then to do your WOT tuning, take logs in 3rd gear but watch the wideband and let off when it or if it goes lean (rich is fine, just log it and adjust after) Leave the timing turned down untill you get your AFR's dialed in, then advance timing a couple degrees at a time through out the range with more emphasis on climbinmg to a higher number of degrees by redline and being a little more conservative around peak torque

a car will use les fuel after the peak power areas of your engine/cam combo so it's common to see them go rich and need leaned out after 6kRPM on a decently built 450 horse setup

Good info there! I have a little bit of tuning knowledge (VAFC and KPRO) I know it's def not the same. But I'm a research a lot before doing anything type of guy. As you can see by my join date and very little post.

Question for you guys, would a 2g maf be over run by 450-500whp or a 56lb/min s256 or should I just shell out for the 3g/evo8 maf?

 

[Blackjet18t]

Question for you guys, would a 2g maf be over run by 450-500whp or a 56lb/min s256 or should I just shell out for the 3g/evo8 maf?

A lot will say ditch that and go for the gm maf. If you do plan to go with DSMlink they have a cable in which you can completely bypass getting the maf translater. I'd say this would be the best way for you to go.

 

[aadperformance]

Good info there! I have a little bit of tuning knowledge (VAFC and KPRO) I know it's def not the same. But I'm a research a lot before doing anything type of guy. As you can see by my join date and very little post.

Question for you guys, would a 2g maf be over run by 450-500whp or a 56lb/min s256 or should I just shell out for the 3g/evo8 maf?

If you want to save money go with ECMlink V3 lite and SD. I car was able to get 501awhp on an fp green with that setup and E98. You can always upgrade from V3 lite to the normal V3 for the difference in price later on.

 

[LandoAWD]

A lot will say ditch that and go for the gm maf.

...and I vote to ditch the GMMAF. I hate, hate, hate my GM MAF.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Avoid a GM maf. They are not designed for how we are using them in blow through, and are, inherently inaccurate when used as such.

Using a GM maf in PULL THROUGH is okay.

Stick with an OEM maf, get your VE tables ironed out, and run SD.

 

[-red97rum-]

Jackal works pretty well and should be plenty to handle your power goals. EcmLink or tunerpro would work too.

 

[natertater]

Jackal works pretty well and should be plenty to handle your power goals. EcmLink or tunerpro would work too.

i agree and this is what im running. just waiting on a good eprom to start it up.