2G Beefy Rear sway bar

[talonted_one]

Does anyone know where I can get a good and beefy rear sway bar?

I have heard from a couple Vendors that the suspension Techniques sway bar is on back order. Does anyone know where I can find those in stock or a suitable replacement.


From what I hear RM racing and ST are the only good brands for a 2G awd.

Comments?

 

[jim97gst]

If you look through here, you'll find a guy getting some custom bars made. There's also a used set of RM bars up for sale.

http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/dsm-autox/messages

 

[jtmcinder]

From what I hear RM racing and ST are the only good brands for a 2G awd.

The SuspTech bars for a 2G are barely thicker than stock. The RM bar is the thickest OTS rear. If you really want to move a ton of weight transfer to the rear, try installing just the rear RM bar. (This, by the way, is a very easy experiment, as the rear bar is a snap to install. I would not plan any experiments involving adding or subtracting front bars on a 2G, as installing the front bar is a total PITA. And I mean drop-the-soap-in-prison-ten-times PITA.)

- Jtoby

 

[hoffman]

RRE makes a 1" rear sway bar. Its just not listed.

 

[MNGSX]

I have both ST bars...

I got them for a few reasons.

1. Cheap.. Second hand but never installed...
2. OE bars were rusty.
3. Better than stock...


The rear bar a good bit stiffer than stock since it has fewer bends than the stock one..
Take coat hanger wire and bend one like the stock sway bar and try to twist it at the ends... Then do it to a piece of wire without the bend in the middle. You just cant run a low hanging exhaust with it. The front bar is adjustable via three sway bar link holes...

I guess if I had'nt found these cheap I'd have gone with the RRE rear bar and either a ST or a RM front bar.

Oh and BTW if you know the trick the front bar is easy too.

It's one of those things like a chinese puzzle... If you just tear into it you'll be cussing... If you think things thru you will be done in about 10 min.

1. You need high stands or a hoist.

2. Remove wheels and the triangular subframe on the passenger side.

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3. Remove the swaybar end links and brackets.

4. You can sneek the bar out the drivers side with the tcase in place or pull the t-case if you cant figure that out... To do it with it in involves a process of sliding the bar sideways while rotating and tiping it so that the ends clear everything. I had them swaped out fast.

 

[ACM]

MNGSX,
do you mean that, by virtue of fewer bends, it's a good deal shorter ?

Otherwise an anti-roll bar is just a spring - bends have no effect.

If the lever arm is the same, the only variables affecting rate are wire length and diameter.

Charles

 

[MNGSX]

It is really much like a torsion bar.

If it has a bump in it that looks like what happens in a cartoon with someones head and a pipe then it will twist easier than the same bar size with out the bend.

The lever arm legths are the same.. The beam section of the bar is where the torsion occurs. If this section is straighter it is stiffer.. Think about it.... The bend is the biggest difference but the straight bar also has a shorter torsion beam since the shortest distance between two points is a straight line.

While the increased diameter makes up for the bends. If RM or RRE (1" ) made a bar shaped like an ST rear but in their diameters I'd jump on it...