battery dies, runs crazy rich

[Dude McGee]

Hey guys this is my first question post. So I left my rad fans running, went to work, battery died. When I booster packed the battery and let it idle, afrs sat at 10.8-11.5 at idle. So I let it run for a bit, figured the voltage drop with my injectors would cause it, but even after hooking up link and verifying voltage, it still idled at 11ish. Car wanted to die at each light whole way home, almost did when I was taking slow turns. So I babied it. Got home, Boost leak test, comp test just in case, nada. Plugs look fine. Its late, im frustrated and tired, any ideas why a dead battery would change into this mess? Tune is intact. Was at 100% right before, so im just fishing for ideas here. Ill be digging in tomorrow afternoon, any thoughts appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I'd say you just need to do a free air recalibration of the wideband. Since your battery died it more than likely messed with that. I had to do one when mine was acting up - 7.4 to 22.4 and hardly any in between readings. Took the wideband sensor out and free air calibrated it and violla, it all came back. Give it a try, worked for me. And post results so we know if more help is needed. Good luck, I think this will fix it. Did the car run fine until the dead battery episode?? I'm pretty sure on this if the car was fine until the battery died.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Hey just a note. If you are running link v2 or v2.5 u will need to reload your files. V3 retains its memory but the earlier versions don't so check your link files to be sure your tune is in there. I think this is correct but hell its so easy I thought I'd mention it.

 

[mercaholik]

All excellent educated possible solutions, and hopefully not the calibration takes care of it. But just wondering, what's your alt putting l out for volts, 13.5- 14.3 is the average. Mine started to go randomly and would make the spark weak enough that I could tell it wasn't running right. Does the car still die, any other issues?

 

[Dude McGee]

My voltage is at 13.7 with fans and lights, 13.9 with extras off and with steering centered mostly, + or - 0.1. When my cams went in and idle changed my voltage dropped a couple tenths and i dont want to idle high just to compensate. Im about to go check it out, thanks for the advice guys. Ive never had to do a free air with a aem uego before. Its link v3 and I have all my tunes on an sd card just in case for all of the cars ive done. But im not simulating stock with the WB, I use the narrowband for ecu and wideband strictly for logging, so im not sure why it would run rough unless the voltage really did impact the injectors that much. The bluemax 1450s are definitely not the most user friendly, but ive never had anything like this with them, and ive had them for quite a while.

Update-went to fire it up and it barely turns over. I think the battery drained, its a gel cell yellow topper, and never fully charged, creating the issues, as link reads a alt voltagewhen running and the battery in my experience occasionally causes weird problems on modified cars. Ill leave it on the trickle charge until juiced and report back

 

[DSM1G90]

Dead battery. Did you change out the Alternator along with it, for a bad battery will kill an alternator.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

If you decide to change out alternators, check out your options. I swapped a Galant 90 amp unit into my 90 Talon and couldn't be happier. All was plug and play, exact fit. Fyi

 

[Dude McGee]

It was an undercharged battery. Its a gel cell, and sucks up a ton of voltage. Needed a 24 hr charge and now its perfect. I already have the canadian/saturn alt with the higher amperage, but it turned out to be a battery thats a volt hog. Thanks for all the ideas and input, turned out to be nothing really. Next battery I buy will be a stocker, thats for sure.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Great! Don't ya hate the simple stuff??