Basic Q's on an Inframe Rebuild

[dsm-onster]

Ok. I have head problems . So i've got a set FP2X cams in the mail along with Manley springs and titanium retainers and a new set of valves... anyway the head is off. and so i got overzealous and dropped the oil pan and pushed out my pistons while i was there thinking i'll just do an inframe rebuild (i did a compression check and she was 125 accross the board at 190000 miles). My questions are on honing and piston ring sets.

Autozone is selling a set of Sealed Power "Chrome"(chromoly i am assuming) rings for under $75. I plan on doing the hone job myself with a honing tool (finger hone). They sell 220 grit stones. I have done this on my 78 datsun and had no problems sealing. Is 220 grit good for seating chromoly rings? i heard that you need a coarser grit with these kinds of rings but is 220 too coarse? Are chromoly rings good for this kind of rebuild or should i just get iron rings?

P.S. Please don't tell me to get a torqueplate. I am deglazing. I will not be spending enough time in the cylinder to change it's shape. The blocks were not honed with a torqueplate at the factory either...

 

[dsm-onster]

I'm going to answer my own question for everyone elses reference. This is the results of my research:

dsmtalk.com thread and supporting website.

 

[PaulN]

Are you also changing out your rod and crank main bearings? The reason I ask is I just threw a timing belt again so I am pulling the engine to redo the head and replace the front cover, water pump, t belt, tensioners, pulleys, install silence shaft elimination kit, install new clutch and change every gasket I can get too, etc. While it's out I figured I would replace the bearings on the bottom end of the engine since my compression is pretty much 155 out of 163 and I don't really need new rings/pistons. (Unless I find that I destroyed a piston when I get my head off). I am wondering if I need to do anything with the crank/rods before replacing the bearings, or can I just swap them out with new?

 

[dsm-onster]

Are you also changing out your rod and crank main bearings? The reason I ask is I just threw a timing belt again so I am pulling the engine to redo the head and replace the front cover, water pump, t belt, tensioners, pulleys, install silence shaft elimination kit, install new clutch and change every gasket I can get too, etc. While it's out I figured I would replace the bearings on the bottom end of the engine since my compression is pretty much 155 out of 163 and I don't really need new rings/pistons. (Unless I find that I destroyed a piston when I get my head off). I am wondering if I need to do anything with the crank/rods before replacing the bearings, or can I just swap them out with new?

Since it is so easy (for me) to replace the bearings i will not be replacing them now... They look good to me. And the crank looks polished and free of scores.

Since you're block is out of your car. . .

If you are going to do anything then I would do everything... mic the crank and determine if you need oversized bearings and do your front an rear seals too. I would do the rings because you can get cast iron rings from advance for 50 bones. As my reasearch states above you don't need to hone or deglaze the block. So just do it .

Personally I wouldn't touch anything because you have good numbers. And you have no bearing noise, right?

 

[PaulN]

None whatsoever.

Hmm...My bill keeps getting smaller and smaller. Is that a good thing?

The engine isn't out yet, but it will be sometime in January. Right now I am just researching and putting together a laundry list of what I need to gather up to get my car back on the road reliably.

Sorry to Hi Jack your thread, was just curious what your plans were since it helped in my research.

 

[dsm-onster]

None whatsoever.

Hmm...My bill keeps getting smaller and smaller. Is that a good thing?

The engine isn't out yet, but it will be sometime in January. Right now I am just researching and putting together a laundry list of what I need to gather up to get my car back on the road reliably.

Sorry to Hi Jack your thread, was just curious what your plans were since it helped in my research.

That's ok. stock internals have been proven to handle 400 hp to the crank easy. What ever's not broke don't fix (unless you know you will break it, i.e. stock rings and pistons when you plan on using a 100 shot at the track to supplement your 20g )

 

[PaulN]

I won't be doing any of that. My plans are to keep the car as close to stock as possible. I just want to preserve my 15 year old sports compact and drive it when I can. If the mod bug bites someday then so be it, but I am 31 and have no desire to be out racing right now. It takes too much money and I really have no one to impress anyway. My wife thinks a car is a car is a car and nobody I know is into cars besides my brother