Balancing my 6 bolt crank

[Wanagofast]

So I'm currently stuck, I've had my crank turned, and bought forged rods and pistons. I want my engine as bulletproof as I can get it. I called the shop they said they do a full rotational balance (pullys,rods/pistons,flywheel clutch) So here is my question. Should i get it balanced? Or is it necessary to bring all those parts? Just want to make sure im not getting ripped off or wasting money on unnecessary things!

 

[92AWDHX40]

I had mine turned and tossed and didn't have anything balanced no problems here, I would say no but that's me others may say something else sometimes I learned it comes down to you in these cases somethings aren't cut and clear im come to find out. This is one of those times.

 

[Wanagofast]

How much Hp are you running on that crank? What size bearing do you have?

 

[92AWDHX40]

clevite fresh build so no numbers but stock bottom end can handle around 400 some cars more maybe ive been working on these cars for more at least 15 years or so and im no wiseman but what are your goals I wouldn't worry too much about balancing anything. Again my car hasn't been tuned or running much at all since the rebuild.

 

[bryanwheat]

On these engines the crank is balanced separately from the rods and pistons. If you bought aftermerket rods and pistons than they should be matched within half a gram usually which is pretty good. I would just have them balance the crank than check the pistons and rods for proper weight unless you have a good scale.

 

[Wanagofast]

Well thanks guys this helped me a lot!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Good luck with your build.

 

[BogusSVO]

I tend to balance or at a minimum check the balance on pistons and rods, both stock and aftermarket.

From what I have found, some parts just get boxed wrong.

Normally the factory cranks are not too bad off by its self, but when you stack the balancer, belt gears, flywheel and pressure plate on it, it can be as much as 50g off.

Now if the shop you are dealing with are willing to spin the crank ans zero it, then add parts and zero each one at a time, you will end up with a smooth running engine.

 

[boost97gst]

You definitely want the full balance if you plan on revving past 8000 on a regular basis. Even if you're not its recommended anyway. Adding a fluidampr is always a great idea too.

 

[miguelmcv]

Like the last 2 guys on top of me stated, a full balanced engine will run smooth, if you are picky, go with the full balance, unless you are putting all parts new, harmony pulley clutch, flywheel,

I used all new and still did the full balancing.

 

[buhay6]

Just going a long with 'wanagofast's questions. I'm working on getting my forged bottom end parts together for my 6 bolt and am wondering when getting pistons and rods balanced should you get them balanced seperately or together? Or does it matter?

And for getting the clutch assembly balaced as well should you just leave everything unassembled when bring it to the machine shop?

My prior experience with machine shops and builds is with bikes and sleds so its a whole new animal to me. Sorry for my incompetence.

 

[crimsondragon]

Crank, flywheel, pressure plate and harmonic balancer should each be balanced, then assembled and checked for balance. Rods and pistons are weight matched separately to the lightest one, then assembled and checked for consistency. That's how I would do it anyway.

 

[Wanagofast]

Alright i'll most likely get it balanced that way its one less thing to worry about. Thanks for all the help Again!

 

[92laserturbors]

glad you decided to get it balanced man, i just got mine back from the machine shop from getting a whole bunch of stuff done, balancing was one of them. ( tho i did not send my pullies, or clutch/pressure plate)