The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Bad sound from under the hood.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

zantrick

Probationary Member
27
0
Mar 4, 2010
cleveland, Ohio
I am not sure what the problem is, but I made a video so someone can help me out. Any help is appreciated. :hellyeah:
 
thats what my car sounds like right now any help? cept mine doesnt wanna stay running and its much more eratic. yours sounds like a suby when you rev it LOL
 
It sounds like yuo have a really nasty exhaust leak. I would check the exhaust manifold gasket first. Also check the manifold itself for cracks. You should see any obvious ones when you pull off the heatshield. You can also try some soapy water near the gasket area before the manifold warms up too much if you don't have the means to pull the manifold off.
 
I can't tell what the sound is from the video. Sometimes its hard to pinpoint a sound when you are sonly listening to the engine from above. To test where the sound is coming from (such as from the block or the head or an external part such as the power steering, alternator, etc.) purchase a cheap stethoscope from Autozone and put the tip on each part under the hood. Amazingly, you can hear if the valvetrain is the problem by touching the head or you can hear a rod knocking by touching the side of the block. Try this and let us know the general area where the noise is coming from.
 
holly crap sounds like rod knock but its not so I would deffinatly say exhaust leak like every one ealse so pull of the exhuast manifold and replace the gasket
 
Just started to tear things apart. First thing i noticed is a broken exhaust stud on passenger side, top left nut/stud. It is broken off in the head. Anyone have any suggesstions on that? Will post more as I get in further.
 
If the exhaust stud/bolt is sticking out of the head enough to grab onto it with pliers, try that first. If not, you do need to drill it out. But, remember, those exhaust studs are very hardened steel and your head is aluminum. Ensure you're drilling in the middle of the bolt AND straight. I have a broken stud in mine that I can't remove because someone tried drilling out the bolt, but drilled sideways, then broke off the extractor instide the stud. So, be very careful not to break off the drill bit or the extractor in the stud. If this happens, you may be SOL.
 
Is your car running alright other than that? Because thats what mine sounds like but i have a huge loss of power and i can smell raw fuel.
 
to those that have broken studs/ easy outs broken off, just take the head to a decent machine shop. It cost me $125 for the insurance of one less thing to go wrong. Oh, and by the way, they managed to save all my threads too, so an extra exhaust stud went in JUST right..
 
Is your car running alright other than that? Because thats what mine sounds like but i have a huge loss of power and i can smell raw fuel.

yea, im willing to bet that your manifold gasket or most likely flange gasket have blown out due to loose/broken bolts. if your loosing power, its because the exhaust is leaking out before the turbo, therefore not spooling the turbo as soon and as much, pull the heat shields off and look for carbonized areas around the mating surfaces. i blew flange gasket out sunday night. i replaced it today at work, couldn't believe it, but we had 2 in stock. its only an 8$ part, but a bit of work involved.

to the op, try heating the stud a bit with a propane torch, just be careful of the head. if there isnt enough stud sticking out to get a good grip with some decent channel locks, you will have the best luck with reverse drill bits, and then run an EZ out in nice and slow as to not snap it off. drilling out carbide is no walk in the park.
good luck guys.:thumb:
 
Update; I have changed to date the following: Spark plugs, Bosh platinum reg node gaped to .32, replaced brand new driver's side ignition coil; the guy that I bought it from drove it around with the number 2 cylnider not firing for god knows how long. Replaced the fuel filter, pcv valve, ran seafoam through it, and changed the oil twice. Then installed an oil feed line and I am now geting leaks from the oil filter housing, because I had to get a fitting from lowes. I need a fitting to fit my car as this one that came with this kit SUCKS! :banghead: Also since then fixed the exhaust leak, wich fixed the ticking sound :thumb: So now I just have the loss of power problem at low rpms. I am tring to make a boost leak detecter but can't find the parts >< anyways I will soon post a new video. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
if the guy ran it with the one cylinder not firing i would bet that you have a gas smell in your oil, if thats the case then you are running low compression in that cylinder and that would be the lose of power.
check to make sure you are getting good compression! running the car with 1 cylinder not firing will 9 times out of 10 wash your piston rings and bearings = lose of compression = less power.
 
eww.. you were right zero compression on cylinder number 2, the one he drove without a spark for god know how long. Soo what is it the rings? It isnt smoking.
 
Okay it was not zero but was like 7 ~ 10 psi. There is no doubt. The other cylinders 150 ~ 163 number 2 is 7 ~ 10 !! what do you think?
 
Yes, absolutly no smoke. Only other thing could be valves? I remember pressurizing the cylinders of a car before with an air compressor, but I don't remember how you know when the valves are closed for that cylinder. I would like to do this without taking the valve cover off. Anywhy to know by the position of the cam gear slots?
 
time to take the head off and inspect the pistons for sure. Also spend the $20 and get a real VC gasket
 
Well it has 170k miles on it without a rebuild. I think it just needs to be rebuilt from bottem end >> up. What things should I replace while it is all apart?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top