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AWD Tranny issues

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97GSeX

10+ Year Contributor
74
0
Feb 19, 2011
Renton, Washington
So I've been having some issues with my tranny for a while now and I really want to get to the bottom of it. It all started one day while driving, randomly my clutch loss all pressure and just went straight to the floor. It slowly began bringing back pressure and I checked my clutch master cylinder and the fluid was pretty dark. So I went ahead and flushed it and put new fluid in. It was fine for awhile, then it became hard to shift into the next gear when in higher rpms( mainly from 1st to 2nd) it was like my shifter was just hitting a wall, I adjusted the clutch a little and it helped alot, but still stuck a little bit in higher rpms. As time when on it slowly came back. So I went ahead and put new fluid in the transfer case (Royal Purple) from people I talked to they had liked it. That helped for a little but once again it came back :notgood: So finally I caved in and talked to some people at my local transmission shop, I've had people I know work with them and they seemed to know their stuff, so one of the employees drove it around the block. I thought it was maybe the syncros going out, but they said it would be hard to shift more than just high rpms ( BTW, it is hard going into 1st from a dead stop.) So they told me my best bet was to go with OEM fluid in the tranny. So as of now thats my last guess, and its really bothering me ### I need to get a good tune! As far as mods for the tranny, just an aftermarket clutch (Thats all I know of, bought it like that from previous owner and he wasn't very mechanically inclined, I knew more about the car than him:tease:)

The only things I can think of is maybe an air bubble got trapped while doing the master cylinder fluid? Or syncros because that was the cause of most hard shifting in the searches I did, and I know quite a few people that used Royal Purple and had no problems so I dont think OEM fluids will help THAT much..
So any advice/recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks! :thumb:
 
I've been working through some similar things on my GSX too, I'll share some of the info I've come across and what has helped my situation (nothing's cured it yet, but it's livable now). I agree that it's not your synchros as you said it doesn't grind, but just doesn't want to go in gear. Same thing mine did.

For tranny fluid, Redline MT85 and MTL are just about the best for our cars. You can run one or the other, or blend them depending on your climate, but I did notice an improvement over Synchromesh fluid.

Make sure your clutch master cylinder isn't leaking _at all_ mine had maybe a pinhole leak, that made a huge impact on clutch operation. Also check out your clutch pedal assembly and see how much play you have, and check the assembly for wear. There's a write-up at VFAQ.com for it, I don't remember the procedure exactly.

Since it's first and second that are giving you trouble, try adjusting your shifter cables and make sure they're lined up right. Do you have a short shifter on the car?
 
Have you checked the clutch master and slave cylinders for leaks? Look under the dash by the clutch pedal and check to see if there is fluid on the carpet there.

A leak could be it because I noticed it did seem a little lower after I flushed it, so I'll check that. And yes there is a short shifter, to the previous comment.

Thanks guys, keep the advice comin in!:thumb:
 
A leak could be it because I noticed it did seem a little lower after I flushed it, so I'll check that. And yes there is a short shifter, to the previous comment.

Thanks guys, keep the advice comin in!:thumb:

Does the short shifter have stops on it like the factory shifter? I'm suspecting the no-name on my car could be contributing too. If the shifter doesn't stop itself when it's supposed to, things aren't going to line up properly and make shifting much more difficult than it needs to be.
 
lift all 4 tires off the ground, put it in 1st, push the clutch to the floor, and rev it to 7 grand. If the tires move at all, your clutch is not properly disengaging. This will also kill your syncros over time.

when adjusting the clutch at the master cylinder, back the rod out (counter-clockwise). This will give you even less clutch throw (not what you want, but where you start). Notice that you are able to depress the slave cylinder easily with your fingers. Now advance the master rod clockwise, while repeatedly checking if you can still depress the slave cylinder with your fingers. You will reach a point when you screw the rod past the fluid container on the master cylinder, you will no longer be able to depress the slave cylinder with your fingers. Back the master rod out to be just before you reach that point.

your profile doesn't list a clutch, but you said it is aftermarket. With that in mind, they are notorious for causing exactly this issue if using a high pressure plate and not properly adjusted. You may need to shim the pivot ball to gain the throw you need to properly disengage that clutch. Or at the very least, check for worn pivot ball/ fork. If it is not disengaging properly, and you keep driving it, you WILL kill your syncros without question.
 
Does the short shifter have stops on it like the factory shifter? I'm suspecting the no-name on my car could be contributing too. If the shifter doesn't stop itself when it's supposed to, things aren't going to line up properly and make shifting much more difficult than it needs to be.
That's the one other thing that was a mystery part that was already on the car when I bought it, but from pictures I looked at it looks like the b&m short throw. But then again they could all look the same:confused:Also a buddy of mine said try tightening my shift linkage? Do you guys think that could be a possibility?
 
im having about the same problem you are.. and tomorrow or this weekend im going to bleed the clutch and adjust it and take it from there..... what is a good clutch fluid to use?
 
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