awd swap what should I replace on trans ect for swap

[j_biggz]

I'm having an awd swap done on my gst and wanted some advice on what parts I should replace. The awd trans is out of the donor along with the front axles. I kept the rear as together as I could so the drive shaft is still installed in the rear end. I'm just wondering what new stuff I should have them use or what to expect. I know I am changing the pivot ball and maybe the shift fork but had no issue with either previously. I also plan on getting a new oem TOB to go along with it. So any advice would be awesome. They are picking up both car on Monday so I need to order parts soon. Thank you in advance

 

[gorf]

A lot of people use the GSX front disk brakes and calipers because they are larger and have two pistons.

You mention that you tried to keep the rear together as much as possible. Hope you also have the gas tank from the gsx.

This should answer any and all questions.:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...p-guys-enter-here-advanced-merged-2-07-a.html

 

[j_biggz]

Thanks for the answer. I have a baer track kit on the front so Ill be using that. I actually have been reading the thread you posted but only made it about 6 pages so far. I was manily concerned with the simple trans parts like impute output seals and stuff like that. Haven't done much trans work. I wanted to order everything so I didn't have to deal with the stealership

 

[turboglenn]

I would do all the CV seals (some can be had at parts stores but they can barely look them up, Tim Zimmer (twicks69) made a nice list of them and what other year/makes/models used the same seals..the left seal for the front axle is rather hard to find unless you know the part number for the seal (alt elast i couldn't find it between auto-zone, napa, o'reilly and finally found it at advanced auto parts. but it's the same for some hyaundai front axle seals.

the rear t-case seal i couldn't find (also seems hard to change) nor could i find the rear pumpkin seals (none of the three)

I wish some one would make a complete "seals list", the stuff twicks put together is nice but as i recall i had to find and read several threads of his to find the numbers i needed.. I started on this once (making a thread) but had some of my seals mixed up as i had to return 3/4 ofwhat the parts stores gave me because they were wrong and by the time i had the right ones in, i had so many reciepts with so many numbers i couldn't tell which ones i used and which ones i didn't. I do know i posted the ones i DID know some where i think in my AWD swap thread.

But common logic and lack of near future maintenence of the parts you just installed would lead one to do all seals, the pivot ball, fork and TOB. dont forget u-joints, i think they are precision part number 398 or you can just use the ones from 87-89 dodge d50 pick up with 2.0 engine (all info iread on here)

DOn't forget to lock tite the flywheel bolts as well as torqueing them properly right away. Carrier bearings area another one that if you have the money you might as well do if there's many miles on the donor car.


Here's some un-forseen issues as well as general "helpfull hints" that came in handy for me as well as assuring somet hings wouldn't be trouble in the semi-near future

1.) frozen calipers - rebuild them for only 8 bucks each it s' easier while the whoe assembly is out of the donor before going intothe project car..

note: do all and any bushings you plan to replace or that need replaced, again MUCH easier when the whole things out of the car)

2.) wheel bearings that seemed ok until they got a few miles on them and got hot and back into working (my driveline was old and was un-used for a while before i got it )

3.) U joints needing replaced

4.)** if you have some JB weld do the mod to the front yoke so that t-case fluid can't leak out and cause a huge ordeal (if the recal wasn't done)

5.) if the driveline was out of the donor car make sure to clean up and polish the outter surface of the front yoke so surface rust doesn't kill the t-case output seal

6.) Remove the outter (larger) band on the CV boots, grease the joint and re-band the boots

7.) Another pointer i can give from a bad experience is if you're using the entire rear subframe and suspension being dropped and isntalled as one complete unit. I found it VERY VERY helpfull to break loose, remove then greaseor apply anti-sieze and re-install EVERY suspension, control arm bolt with the unit out of the car (including the alignment eccentrics) this makes things a thousand times easier than it is to wrestle with frozen ones once it's in the car and up on a rack.

8.) depending on the tanks age, clean and flush with gas while out of the car, let it "sun dry" and then use an air blower to flush any remaiing stuff out

9.) as mentioned in most swaps, use the donor tanks fill and vent/overfill tubes or you may have issues with the gas pump not shutting off when the car is full at the gas station

10.) If you can get the harness for the tank from the donor car it ismuch cleaner than having everything direct soldered when adapting the single pump/sender to the dual setup.

11.) Cut out the "access hole" on the drivers side for the sending unit and use the "cover plate" from,the donor car and just secure it with some of the short body screws (i used all bolts that came from the donor car).

12.) If you have the time and knowledge open the trans (at least the very end case) and check the bolts and such like the 5th gear tht's known to back off..these are all just to make life easier after the install with stuff you might not notice using parts from a non-running/driving donor

13.)Another TIP, make sure you clean up and properly align the sending unit and fuel pump "caps" so you don't have to fight with getting the fuel gauge to work correctly later (and if you do need to mess with it later the access you cut behind the driver's seat will save you from dropping the tank to make a simple 10* turn of the sending unit cap to make the gauge work correctly should it hang up on you)

14.) If you're donor car is a 2ga car,then remember the vertical arms that the hubs ride in(can't recall the real name) but anyway at least the rears are not curved "deep enough" to run any tire4s widerthan stock really (maybe just barely wider) but i can't run my 225';s in the rear without spacers that are 0mm thick. This is because i have 95 rear vertical arms (used my FWD fronts) where as the 2gb (97 and up) are all much better andwill clear a 225 easily

15.)although you can use the same struts and springs either way the GSX parts are stifer rates and are also longer/taller to make up for the extra sag from the weight fo the AWDcomponenets (ui've been told that's why anyway but they are longer) my car sits like a monster truck right now but i have some tokico blues with 8"hyperco springs waiting to go back on now that winter's over

16.) AND on thing i strongly suggest if you have the tools to do so, is instead of removing the front piece that is the front bearing carrier forthe D-shaft from both cars and swapping them, (they are usually beat up on the high mile AWD's i'veworked on. So in the front the holes where the studs "should be" are already there, I took and turned the heads downon some 14mm bolts until they fit snug in the holes of the body on the FWD, then i welded around the entire "flange" that wasleft from turning the heads down to fir.. This is MUCH MIUCH easier to me than spotweld removing and prying loose the SAME exact part on both cars only to have 2 bolts mounted in the one you need (plus this way you don't have to remove the front carpet to keep from burning it up (as well as the center consoles some have melted) from the heat of welding in that complete bracket

17.) If you're in a "high rust" area of the country, the cross brace in the rear where the rear tank strap bolts go seem to be a common peice to rust out.. again the holes are already there for where you need to put the bolts so what i did was isntead of drilling through thye top to drop them in i welded them into some 16 guage sheet metal and used the heads to poke into the oem holes to locate the piece and then welded in sheet metal to cover several inches of area since the place where the bolts should have went in was too rusted to trust since you pretty much need to dropthe subframe to get to them in the future

18.) I found it simplerto use the FWD rear trailing arms and leave them in the car as compared to swapping them out from one to the other when they are exactly the same either way

19.) this is covered in mostswaps but use the AWD parking brake cables, the bolt locations for securing it are slighly different between the 95 donor car and my 97 GST/X converted car but they are much easier to remove and install to the e-brake handle than they are to swap out of the rear hubs

20.) If the donor car didn't have an LSD rear but you have one to install, it's super easy to swap with the subframe out of the car and a tip to make it EVEN EASIER is to do it while you're lubing and re-booting the CV's you MUST use the LSD inner CV cups but you can combine them with the remaingin CV parts from the non-LSD car.. but thinking back tomy tip about removing and greasing bolts and such.. make sure you can remove the rear axles from the hubs before installing the sub-frame as well..again much easier to work on and can save you time in the future (i pulled about everything there was, anti-sieze coated them and put them back together)

21.) Again, don't forget to get seals for the t-case input andoutput as well as the same from the rear diff (all have to be mitsu unless you can find the part numbners (i couldn't)

22.) although mentioned, i'll add to the "numbered list" U-joints... 87-89 dodge d50 pickup or precision part number 398

I think that's about it and i still did my swap in 7 days flat (with a few of the above like the calipers and wheel bearings not being caught until after the swap) my swap aside from the main parts cost(i traded for EVERYTHING) but remaining itmes were under 250 bucks with seals, fluids/sealants, and a few small things like bearings and such.

 

[j_biggz]

Thank you very much and this is what I was looking for exactly. Some solid advice from someone that had done it already. Great info and thanks again

 

[turboglenn]

No problem, if i can save some one else headaches i went through by taking the time to think it over and post it up, then i'm always glad to help out. Plus the info is archived for anyone searching in the future, so even if i spread the info to more than one thread it's a better chance some one will catch it when picking and choosing what results from the search they want to read (providing they actually did search )

The AWD swap was one of the best things i've ever done to the car, not to mention one of the most fun projects i've undertaken in a LONG time. I always get excited to see others start on it and in the spirit of that statement i hope you post up a good pictorial detailing your own experiences, successes and failures as well as their fixes It's cool to see the solutions others come up with for certain things and although some i can't agree with they are all interesting to see

sending you a PM