AWD front axle (is this normal?)

[1GawdJunkie]

91 awd talon automatic.

So I have a leak at my drivers side alxe seal in the trans. At this
point the x-case and down pipe have been removed. I have un-bolted the
bracket that holds the axle at the block. Hub assy has not been dis-assembled yet.

1) When I move the axle around there is a lot of play. I can move it as
far as the seal will allow. A lot of trans fluid will come out when the seal is flexed.

Is this normal?

2) With the Hub assy still intact I can only back the axle out about an inch. However, it
pulled out very easily by hand. I used very little force and it slid right out.

Is this normal?

Thank you very much for your feed back.

 

[steve]

No it's not normal when everything it bolted down.
Does it move around when the carrier bearing is bolted down?
Is the spacer or AC compressor still between the CB housing and the block?

Steve

 

[1GawdJunkie]

The axle is only connected at the hub and trans at this time, the AC bracket has been un-bolted.

With the axle bracket bolted to the ac spacer and block there is no movement.

 

[1GawdJunkie]

Please remember safety first. Always use jack stands, eye protection, common sense, etc.

Ok, so to complete this thread.

Slight play in the axle shaft appears to be normal when the bracket attached to the block is removed. Drivers side on an AWD
Getting the axle out is not that bad.
1. Remove down pipe to the cat.
2. Remove transfer case. It's a good idea to support it with something (jack). Its kind of heavy and you do not want it to land on your hand or face.
3. Undo the axle bracket on the block, tie rod bolt and two lower bolts on the on the shock. With the hub assy free of these mounting points you should have enough travel to pull the axle from the diff.
4. Replace axle seal.
5. Assemble in the reverse order

I made the mistake of thinking the ball joint should be removed. When all was reassembled and the ball joint boot damaged the best way I found was to:
1. Loosen the ball joint nut a few thread, I went about 1/8".
2. I had used the smallest fork that would fit around the ball joint bolt.
3. Hammer the fork in so that it is tight and the arm pointed downward.
4. I put my 3-ton jack under the arm and raised.
5. After about 3 attempts and loosening the nut each time there was a loud pop and it was out.

Of course the control arm needs to be removed, I had purchased a new ball joint assy from the local parts store. Took the control arm with the damaged ball joint and new ball joint assy to a local machine shop that was recommended by parts store. The shop removed the old ball joint and pressed in the new one.
With the control arm mounted to the frame I lined up the ball joint bolt in the hub assy. Used my jack to push it up and tightened to spec.

I hope this helps. If anyone has anything to add, or correct in case I missed something please feel free.