Audi/vw clutch mod

[Black420RS]

I am planning on doing the WV Clutch mod

i have this 2GNT.com - Audi/VW_Pressure_Plate for reference

I know that i have to get the PP from a Audi A4 Quattro 1.8l turbo but I am a Little confused with the Clutch Disc...

I should take it from a Dodge Daytona, Lancer, Shadow ETC but those came with 2 different Engines 2.2 & 2.5

can anyone tell me the Exact Year/Model/Engine??? please....


and if I Cant get the PP, can I use only the "T-4" disc with the 95 Neon OEM PP

 

[jayson427]

For the disc the link says you can use a 95 Dodge neon and the engine would be a 2.0 which would probably be easier to find

I forgot to say the whole point off the mod is the pressure plate so without that its not worth it. Might as Well buy a stock clutch.

 

[Black420RS]

For the disc the link says you can use a 95 Dodge neon and the engine would be a 2.0 which would probably be easier to find

I forgot to say the whole point off the mod is the pressure plate so without that its not worth it. Might as Well buy a stock clutch.

Yeah but the "T-4" disc haves a bigger diameter so that is an improvement because you would be adding around of 18 mm in the contact surface (232MM vs 214MM stock)

 

[Black420RS]

hello? anyone knows? ?

 

[eclipse420ags]

Not sure pm bullettdsm he should know he wrote the thread you posted.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Yeah but the "T-4" disc haves a bigger diameter so that is an improvement because you would be adding around of 18 mm in the contact surface (232MM vs 214MM stock)

That's not usually how it works. Greater surface area means less force.
There can be benefits to that depending on the disc material but otherwise, that's exactly why 6 puck clutches grab so hard.

Pressure= Force/Area, meaning that pressure is inversely proportional to area.
Thus, if you double the area, you half the pressure.

P=F/A
F=PA
Pressure units are often expressed as N/in^2.
Force is usually expressed in plain old Newtons.

 

[bullettdsm]

Sorry OP, I somehow missed this thread

That's not usually how it works. Greater surface area means less force.

Nah, that's exactly how it works. Greater surface area (with same material) on same clamp load generates stronger hold.

Be sure you're comparing apples to oranges. Can't compare 6 puck to organic. You've got cooling effects and different materials involved. Here's a quick explanation on clutches to save me from typing out an explanation

Basics of the Clutch - Car Craft Magazine

And yes OP, you can use the T-4 disc or the Daytona disc for a 2.5. Here's a thread that we generated the info from (I put you on page three of that thread because that's where the info seems to "coagulate");

www.neons.org • View topic - Clutch Measurements & Comparison UPDATED

MB

 

[VelocitàPaola]

That's not usually how it works. Greater surface area means less force.
There can be benefits to that depending on the disc material but otherwise, that's exactly why 6 puck clutches grab so hard.

Pressure= Force/Area, meaning that pressure is inversely proportional to area.
Thus, if you double the area, you half the pressure.

P=F/A
F=PA
Pressure units are often expressed as N/in^2.
Force is usually expressed in plain old Newtons.

To add to what Mark said, the force in that equation is the normal force, i.e. the clamping force. It doesn't really factor into how much rotational force the clutch can withstand before slipping.

 

[Black420RS]

And yes OP, you can use the T-4 disc or the Daytona disc for a 2.5.
MB

are you telling me sir that this would work?


Sachs Clutch Friction Disc SD1099 | eBay

 

[bullettdsm]

are you telling me sir that this would work?


Sachs Clutch Friction Disc SD1099 | eBay

Hmm, its got the correct spline diameter (15/16) and the correct spline count (17) and its got a 9" OD, so I don't see why not.

Its not what I've been using (I used the 93-94 2.5 Turbo Dodge disc. Probably just the slight OD difference). Also keep in mind that I did get one of the cheaper discs out there one time and I took one look at it and sent it back. I know this says Sachs which is normally an OK disc, but just some food for thought.

MB

 

[Black420RS]

Hmm, its got the correct spline diameter (15/16) and the correct spline count (17) and its got a 9" OD, so I don't see why not.

Its not what I've been using (I used the 93-94 2.5 Turbo Dodge disc. Probably just the slight OD difference). Also keep in mind that I did get one of the cheaper discs out there one time and I took one look at it and sent it back. I know this says Sachs which is normally an OK disc, but just some food for thought.

MB

Perfect! I will give it a try

Thanx MB

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Sorry OP, I somehow missed this thread


Nah, that's exactly how it works. Greater surface area (with same material) on same clamp load generates stronger hold.

Be sure you're comparing apples to oranges. Can't compare 6 puck to organic. You've got cooling effects and different materials involved. Here's a quick explanation on clutches to save me from typing out an explanation

Basics of the Clutch - Car Craft Magazine

And yes OP, you can use the T-4 disc or the Daytona disc for a 2.5. Here's a thread that we generated the info from (I put you on page three of that thread because that's where the info seems to "coagulate");

www.neons.org • View topic - Clutch Measurements & Comparison UPDATED

MB

Thank you for the correction. Maybe my problem IS apples vs oranges.
As far as I can tell the math says that force is decreased but that's not all the math. It might work great for building a teeter-todder or some other simple device but as you indicated a clutch system is much more complicated. You must take into account friction materials, coefficient of friction, tq. (rotational velocity), etc.

I just can't help but to try to apply shit I learned on the farm. Do not, under any circumstances take the race sled with the narrow track across the lake. You'll go through the ice. The BearCat, however, at nearly twice the weight but with nearly 3 times the track width could breeze over that same ice all day.

But those examples don't really involve rotational velocity, heat, cooling, friction, etc. So I guess the answer is clear.

To add to what Mark said, the force in that equation is the normal force, i.e. the clamping force. It doesn't really factor into how much rotational force the clutch can withstand before slipping.

Yep! I see that now. Thanks!