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at my wits end

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91blackcherrytsi

10+ Year Contributor
54
0
Aug 13, 2012
corbin, Kentucky
ok where to start?

at about 10 psi it acts like the sparks blowing out and loses a cylinder.

compression is good on all cylinders

brand new plugs gaped correctly, ngk bpr6es.

fuel is walbro on an aeromotive fpr and stock inj.

swapped out stock coils with another set of stock coils and still doing it.

now i can take the plugs out and gap them paper thin and it wont do it but it wont idle good either.

the only other thing i can think of is that it could be an injector. im pretty sure these have been in the car since it was made.

should also add it started doing this when i was going through a rusty gas tank problem that i recently fixed
 
ok where to start?

at about 10 psi it acts like the sparks blowing out and loses a cylinder.

compression is good on all cylinders

brand new plugs gaped correctly, ngk bpr6es.

fuel is walbro on an aeromotive fpr and stock inj.

swapped out stock coils with another set of stock coils and still doing it.

now i can take the plugs out and gap them paper thin and it wont do it but it wont idle good either.

the only other thing i can think of is that it could be an injector. im pretty sure these have been in the car since it was made.

should also add it started doing this when i was going through a rusty gas tank problem that i recently fixed

Possibly a clogged/dirty injector(s)?
 
as far as the gap goes, i started out at .027 and gradually went down to .020 to see if i effected it any. and it did. the closer i gapped them the better it got. i normally gap at .027.
 
rusty fuel tank could have clogged the injectors so i would clean them first. are you coil on plug or do you still have wires? if you have wires do the ends look burnt, are they routed correctly?
 
Do you have a wideband and any method of logging? Have you checked all the wiring? Have you double checked that the AFPR can supply 1:1 pressure increase at above 47psi? (assuming base fp + 10psi boost). Could even be the MAF breaking up at increased air flow.
 
fuel pressure is 43 with the vacuum unplugged. plug wires appear to be fine and have been routed different ways to ensure they re not arcing. i do not have a wideband yet but i do have ecmlink v3 and im running a 3 in gm maf. im not very good at using link yet and dont really know what to look for. i havent got to start tuning yet because of this problem.
 
I say its plug wires these cars can be sensitive to the type of plug wires. I'd buy a brand new set if oem's and try that regardless of how new your current wires are. In my opinion the oem is the best wire and the others are iffy no matter the cost. In fact I'd put a lot of money on it being the wires. The fact that dropping the gap helped tells the tale. I'd also go to 7's with summer coming up, especially if ## pushing the boost Oma. 14b.
 
ive got plans on bigger injectors and a wideband soon. weve all got parts plans hahahaha. but ill try some plug wires soon as i can get em. but wires and injectors are the only thing ive not replaced so far since the cars been resurected from its 9 year death bed.

sorry forgot to add that i do know that its not picking up any knock. ive got my cel and boost gauge setup to show knock and its always been true.
 
Please post back your findings with regards to the change in spark plug wires or anything else you try that does or does not work. I am diagnosing a similar problem with my vehicle - my alternator is going (head lights are pulsing/flickering) so I have a new one on order and going to see what that does.
 
Have you pulled the injectors and looked in the top of them? I worked on a 1g a few years back that had a rusty tank. The previous owner just threw a new pump in but didn't tell my buddy that the tank was rusty. The car would start but rev kind of slow, and made no power at all. After replacing the tank, sending unit, pump, sock, and fuel filter it was running better but no where close to right. Pulled the injectors and the screens were full of crap from the tank. Put in a different set of injectors cleaned the fuel rail and the car ran great. I would definitely pull one at least from the rail and look down into it. Aside from this, have you performed a boost leak test on the engine? Any leaks? Also are you getting a check engine light at all?
 
ok guys i bought some new plug wires today and that seems to have fixed it completely!
not cutting out at all and running great! thanks for the comments and help. i figured i would post my findings to help people with this same problem in the future.

funny how particular these cars are with plug wires, inspecting the old ones you could not tell anything was wrong with them at all. all the connections looked great and the insulation looked great, but in the end one of them was bad.
 
Just to close this out what does "looked ok" mean? My guess would be if you look again at the boot you'll find a small grey dot where it was arcing through. For what its worth if anybody finds one of these and has a problem you can use a piece of black tape to get you by until you buy a new set.
 
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